gear change but what do i do?

BAD97LSC

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i have already filed my taxes today and i have a large refund coming. i currently have 3:73's but i want to replace them with 4:30's before the steeda true street event in bradenton fl in feb. my question is, i sold my sniper software for my car, if i remove the 3:73's and replace with 4:30's shouldnt i retune the car and let it know i now have 4:30's or will i be able to leave the car alone? i dont know what to do when it comes to that. but i am gonna order the gears as soon as the check is deposited into my account. what should i do?
 
i have already filed my taxes today and i have a large refund coming. i currently have 3:73's but i want to replace them with 4:30's before the steeda true street event in bradenton fl in feb. my question is, i sold my sniper software for my car, if i remove the 3:73's and replace with 4:30's shouldnt i retune the car and let it know i now have 4:30's or will i be able to leave the car alone? i dont know what to do when it comes to that. but i am gonna order the gears as soon as the check is deposited into my account. what should i do?

I ran my car on a stock tune with 4:10's for 3 years...in my humble opinion you should be fine. Are you getting another pumpkin for the 4:30's?
 
no i'll use my pumpkin i already have a track loc in it i dont have to use my car i can park it i am gonna rebuild the whole rear end i just brought it up to dlf i want new knuckles and control arms with all the delrin bushings so i am gonna take my whole irs out, i'll just drive my 98 lsc while the 97 is apart.
 
Guess peoples version of fine varies. You acceleration rates will change quite a bit and in some situations you will bounce off the rev limiter when comanding an upshift shortly after it kicks down. also you should change the vss gear to match so the ..... wait, you don't have aire ride so maybe that ain't important.


I thought you were gonna turbo at some point? You don't want more gear then you have now. Car will slow down on the street because the turbo won't be able to build full boost in lower gears since you will be out of gear too soon.
 
i'm doing gears for now its alot cheaper than building a motor, i have the motor already and i am slowly gonna take it apart and hot tank the block and start from scratch i want alot of it powdercoated and what not so the motor is going to be a slow process a little at a time. but i am putting the car in the steeda true street event and i want more gear right now, i need drag radials also and i may put a small bottle back in the car for the event. my buddy ron is coming down from mass with his slighly modded 04 mach one he is entering it as well.

another thing, i want to put a convertor in it too, if i go with 4:30's what stall area should i be in, 3200 to 3500? i am not familiar with how convertors really work so this is unknown territory with me.
 
i'm doing gears for now its alot cheaper than building a motor, i have the motor already and i am slowly gonna take it apart and hot tank the block and start from scratch i want alot of it powdercoated and what not so the motor is going to be a slow process a little at a time. but i am putting the car in the steeda true street event and i want more gear right now, i need drag radials also and i may put a small bottle back in the car for the event. my buddy ron is coming down from mass with his slighly modded 04 mach one he is entering it as well.

another thing, i want to put a convertor in it too, if i go with 4:30's what stall area should i be in, 3200 to 3500? i am not familiar with how convertors really work so this is unknown territory with me.

I don't know if they make a transbrake for our trans but if they do it will give us the most out of a stall convertor...I have a 3200 stall, the most RPM I can get to before the tires start breaking loose or the car from inching forward is about 2300 RPM...when it does launch it launches like a rocket.
 
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my car already has a tune in it for the 3:73's and it doesnt shift early now, it seems a little quicker than stock but not alot so i dont know if it will seem right after 4:30's. maybe it will be just right!
 
my car already has a tune in it for the 3:73's and it doesnt shift early now, it seems a little quicker than stock but not alot so i dont know if it will seem right after 4:30's. maybe it will be just right!
If your car shifts within 100 rpm of fuel cutoff then from time to time your 1-2 and 2-3 shifts will cause the car to bounce off its rev limiter. The firmness in the shift is just due to the Sniper comanding a higher line pressure. With the Sniper if you run full pressure then the car will always bark the 1-2 shift no matter how little throttle.
The Sniper isnt a good option for our cars. Excellent if you have a Stang but not for ours. I had one for a year and got it pretty dang good but it took a crap load of work and back and forths with Pat at Sniper.
Someone on here has that ECU now, wonder how its working for them?

For stall, if you drive the car all the time then get a 3200. Most will reach lock closer tp 2300-2500 in that range. A 3500 will be closer to 2800-3000 but would be a little annoying on the street.

You want that bish to launch hard then get some DRs and some nitrous first. Much easier and you can see if the car can launch well. If it still bogs on the launch then do the TC and I bet its all you will want. No sense doing the gears then doing them again when you boost the new motor.

Just my .02
 
when i build the motor i have a few pumpkins in the shop i will just build another pumpkin then sell this one so i wont waste any money, its only 209 bucks for the gears plus a rebuild kit i am not worried about that i want the gear and it sounds like a 3200 is more than enough stall, i have some stock 16's so i will get some dr's for them for the rear and see what happens i want all this done before march cuz thats when the true street is.
 
If your car shifts within 100 rpm of fuel cutoff then from time to time your 1-2 and 2-3 shifts will cause the car to bounce off its rev limiter. The firmness in the shift is just due to the Sniper comanding a higher line pressure. With the Sniper if you run full pressure then the car will always bark the 1-2 shift no matter how little throttle.
The Sniper isnt a good option for our cars. Excellent if you have a Stang but not for ours. I had one for a year and got it pretty dang good but it took a crap load of work and back and forths with Pat at Sniper.
Someone on here has that ECU now, wonder how its working for them?

For stall, if you drive the car all the time then get a 3200. Most will reach lock closer tp 2300-2500 in that range. A 3500 will be closer to 2800-3000 but would be a little annoying on the street.

You want that bish to launch hard then get some DRs and some nitrous first. Much easier and you can see if the car can launch well. If it still bogs on the launch then do the TC and I bet its all you will want. No sense doing the gears then doing them again when you boost the new motor.

Just my .02

I did notice the other day that my car went all the way to 6500 RPM's on wide open throttle on the 1st to 2nd shift...I am going to see what happens on the stock tune next time I drive her.
 
Yeah I plan on getting MT drag radials on a pair of stocker 16s. The 255s should fit. My friends on Stangnet say the MT is the best to run and they are all 11 second cars... couple 10 second ones too.
When I do my nw motor I plan on a 3200 stall as well but not sure what brand yet.
 
i dont know what brand to look at either. i just talked to diesel dan his buddy does rear ends in his sleep so i am gonna give the pumpkin to dan so he can have it done for me. i was thinking getting a new trac-loc too and have a different pumpkin buils so i could sell my entire pumpkin complete, its already got 3:73's and a trac-loc
 
MT DR's are the best, hands down.

As far as the tune goes, either the Base NV should be changed accordingly or the shift schedule scaled if you change the gears.
 
I was gonna be all like "LOCAL DIBZ" but I am too late..... :(

I do know I'm gonna attend the event though. It's 20 minutes away lol.
 
Everyone I know runs a DirtyDog converter. Anyone around here use one?

Doesnt SCT make a nice programmer for the Mark?? David Dalke did mine and it was just a mail order deal, ya know fill out this form with all your mods and POOF...!!!:D The SCT pack transformed my car.

Brad
 
You are at a cross road with your car.
Its time to decide which way you want to go and stick with it.

LaserSVT is right if you want to boost it later keep the gears you have.

Ditch the sniper and go sct, you know who to call to get tune help.
I would go to Circle D to get a converter.

http://www.circledspecialties.com/default.aspx

I would go 3500 + but I don't care about "street manners".


You want that bish to launch hard then get some DRs and some nitrous first. Much easier and you can see if the car can launch well. If it still bogs on the launch then do the TC and I bet its all you will want. No sense doing the gears then doing them again when you boost the new motor.

Just my .02
Good plan, I would just add.. test and dial in your combo before the true street event to make it a good time.
 
I have a built 4.30 pumpkin that was done by a local race shop and built with 100% OEM parts from Max... pm if you want it... 0 miles.
 

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