G-Rell's Go Kart Build

The plasti-dip is after it gets done at Hite's GoKart Customs. It will be sent to Storm Trooper Plasticques for the finish.
G, check this color out.


Fast forward 03:20 in the vid.

sorry to induce it here in this thread, couldn't so readily find your PlastiDip thread.

In my sig....

The plasti-dip is after it gets done at Hite's GoKart Customs. It will be sent to Storm Trooper Plasticques for the finish.

Dipped at G-Rells Garage!!!

We're going to do a base of Rustoleum white... If the kid wants to PD after that... Its up to him.
not fast enough for that yet...

Was able to fix all the wiring (back to stock) and replace the cover (pics soon).

ALT came in (its full size)... but was tested


So according to this, I need to hit around ~1500-2000rpm to get something outta it...

whats the "turn on speed less than" though?
With a 1-wire alternator the "turn-on" speed is the speed you have to get the alternator up to before the charging circuit will engage or "Turn-On". Once the alternator is operating you can run it at lower speeds although if it de-energizes it will need to hit the minimum "turn-on" speed again.

Basically, the alternator won't start outputting voltage until it initially hits 2500-rpm. After that, you'll need to keep the alternator above 1000-rpm for it to keep working. Once it falls below 1000-rpm it will de-energize (turn-off), and need to be spun back up to 2500-rpm to start working again.

From some guesswork we did previously, top speed on the axles would be around 27mph or 400-rpm. With a 10:1 pulley driving the alternator, you'd have to get up to around 17-mph for the alternator to turn on, and then maintain at LEAST 7-mph for it to keep working. Once you drop below 7-mph it will turn off until you get back up to 17-mph for it to turn back on.

The alternator will also drain 0.4 mAmps at all times regardless of whether it's operating or not. This is why you need a disconnect on the battery when you store the gokart. A plug in battery trickle charge is also a good idea when you have it sitting in the garage.

The ripple current is the output pulse of the alternator's stator and rotor. This is what makes the lights in cars look like they are pulsing when diodes go bad. The pulse is usually smoothed out by the battery and sometimes a capacitor in the rectifier. But basically 63-amps is an average reading, with actual output being somewhere between 51-75 amps depending upon the rotor position at that time.
My RPM calculations are the same.

The rear rotor is about 10" so clearance wise, its doable... Reverse kit comes in today, so once thats in, I'll know how much room I have.

Hitting 17 is a concern though. I wonder if a lower "turn on" alt is available?
Or a similar setup like this (to get a few more rpms) 10:2 then maybe a 6:2


I wonder if a lower "turn on" alt is available?

some alts use an ignition/switched wire to turn the alt on and off instead of having to reach a certain speed, may be the better way to go for this particular application
some alts use an ignition/switched wire to turn the alt on and off instead of having to reach a certain speed, may be the better way to go for this particular application

Yeah, that's a 3-wire alternator that I mentioned before. Almost all modern alternators are a 3-wire alternator like the Ford 3G series alternators that came on most anything Ford in the mid 90's. You can convert them to a sort of 1-wire setup.

Like this: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jpersons/media/Alternator and wiring/3G-ALT_wiring-1-1.gif.html
Or a similar setup like this (to get a few more rpms) 10:2 then maybe a 6:2

View attachment 828476027

Have to be careful you don't over-spin them too. No clue what the upper end is on that alternator. You'd have to call them and ask.

Alternatively, you can just mount a briggs and stratton on the roof and power the alternator that way. Just head to a flea market and buy an old edger, bolt it on the roof, cut the handles off, and mount the alternator....

Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5lRis2SL3E


Or this if you get that Hite guy involved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmZ5-9a0Rac

I'd probably just give up on the alternator idea for now and upgrade the 11-pole stator.
LOL, fine fine.

You don't have to use a Ford 3G alternator. Almost all alternators made anymore are internally regulated and have similar wiring/function as the Ford 3G. Just a matter of doing a little google search and finding the right connector and wiring diagram. Only reason I used the Ford 3G alternator is because I used them before to convert from Ford's 2G fire starter alternators in my old F150 and Taurus SHO. They're also easy to find and relatively cheap. One off of a 93-95 F150 is going to have a 4" through-bolt hole and then a threaded tab on the other end for a tensioner arm. This would probably be the easiest to make work with a simple bracket and arm:


Also the pulley is removable, so you could take a serpentine pulley off and put a v-belt on one.

GIVE UP!!!! never... My bad, I didn't realize this limitation.

starting to feel dumb here... this is the only 3g vbelt alt I can find... will this wire like your image? and remove the min rpm needs?

Ah hellooooo!!! Concerned about hitting 17mph in this kart, you kidding me? Surely this is not a Toys-R-US plastic battery operated kids giddy up kart!!!

I'll get that thing up past 17 for ya .... send out the carb have it bored open and rejetted, change some sprockets .... if that's an issue I'll personally deliver my Mach 1 sled engine to you!

Concerned at getting up past 17 .... your killing me here man! That thing is going G to cut your lawn in under two minutes flat I hate to tell ya!

Making me LOL with that 17 comment, still wiping the tears from my eyes.

HITE !!!! Make that thing go like he needs a racing harness to keep him and the kid attached.

Concerned with past 17 ... knee slapper! You better practice your hanging on skills for when your Son shows you how it's done ... Dad!

Hahahaa ... wait ... my dog is faster then this kart?
yeah but if you need to get it above 17 just to get it to turn on, its probably gonna shut back off when the revs get very low (which unless your on a straight back road or a big circle track is gonna happen a lot). especially if your riding tighter trails, and uh at night when a lot of lights would be needed, constantly hitting 17 may be tricky to do... the alt very well may spend more time off than on. of course the cart should be able to do over 17, but his case will it see it enough?
It's a kart, it's meant to be driven wide open. I'm sure it's going to see plenty of WOT when G does get use to the handling of it all.
Powering LED lighting correct?
HA! you're both right...

Rig... YES, 17 is easy.. New sprocket going on next (They sent me the wrong output shaft..not long enough)



You think there was some water in the transfer case?!?!?


top speed right now is around 30...will confirm once back together...

17!!!!!... as Loud says, is only a concern off road... tight trails (at its size) may be tough at times... We want some sort of charging at all times. WOT will happen all the time... but axle speed will vary.

Yes all LED

we're planning around 800W max right now...
I think this is my solution... Adding a battery Diode Isolator may keep my power balanced... and keep power separated.


Send the motor stator power to the isolator

and split it to both batteries. Then install the alt to the access. bat. to power the extra load needed...

yet still power the acces battery off the engine stator if the alt wasn't running....

The only concern would be taking too much power from the stator and have it never charge the kart battery.. But i think that would be rare... and as long as the cart ran with the access. off for a min.. should charge away.
Let me know when you're ready for a 670cc sled engine.

Let me know when you're ready for a 670cc sled engine.

yeah a 670 would be great for a kid! lol j/k but when the time comes to really get at it, I know a guy that builds some wicked liter motors (1015cc) out of Wisconsin! helped drop one in my buddies stand up! So much TQ you'd probably need an extended swing arm to keep from flipping it right up! lol

800w of electrical load on a go-kart? That's what most cars would have for an electrical load with every option turned on at full speed.

Just how many light bars you going to put on this thing? You know spotlighting deer is actually illegal in most places!!!

Don't forget to strap the PA speakers to the top of the go-kart so you can play "Ride of the Valkyries" while running through the woods at wide open throttle.
haha... go big or go home... not all will be on at all times... but:

180...roof light bar.............1X 180W 32" Off Road LED Light Bar
72.....headlights.................2 X 36W 7" inch SPOT LED Light Bar
72.....side / rear rock..........4x 4" 18W CREE LED Work Light
40.....reverse.....................2 X 20W 4" inch Flood Square LED
180...accent......................20 X Eagle Eye 23mm Motor Car 9W LED Daytime
80.....horn / PA speaker.......7 Tone Sound Car Siren Horn With Mic PA Speaker System
20.....lighted flag................LED Lighted Whip atv
200...headunit / speakers
844 total
80.....horn / PA speaker.......7 Tone Sound Car Siren Horn With Mic PA Speaker System

I'll donate $5 to the cause if the horn/PA plays: Ludacris - Move Bitch Get out the Way! :p

With all that stuff I'd find a way to drive the alternator from the stator of the engine. Even if half of that is on you're not going to be able to idle very long before it kills a small ATV battery. Plus I'm sure he's going to want to play car show and turn on every damn thing at once to show off, just like anyone else who mod's their ride.

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