for the car audio guys...

thanks, man. Not sure about upgrading the alt just yet, so I figured this may help in the meantime. Well, until the stock alt goes kaput.
 
well u do know...adding a battery is a great way to burn out a stock amp, it may help by giving more power to ur amps....but it creates more of a charging load on the amp, even the those battery caps charge "instantly"....
 
Yep, that's what I think too. The car audio shop here insists that is not the case, but I don't believe them. The had the nerve to tell me that adding an extra battery won't put extra strain on the alt lol. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just invest in the 220a alt instead of the batcap. $229 or something like that for the alternator.
 
pektel said:
Yep, that's what I think too. The car audio shop here insists that is not the case, but I don't believe them. The had the nerve to tell me that adding an extra battery won't put extra strain on the alt lol. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just invest in the 220a alt instead of the batcap. $229 or something like that for the alternator.
Click to expand...

with you already having a yellow top, i wouldn't worry about getting a better battery until after you get an alt,

I hate when people argue with me over the "extra battery will kill your alt"

If your alt doesn't put out enough amperage to power the car and all the stereo stuff, how is it supposed to also keep another battery charged on top of all the other stuff? trick question, it can't

batteries dont create power, they just store it, if your not creating(*1) as much or more power than your using, then your eventually going to end up with two dead batteries and a burned up alt.

since the alt is the only device in the car that can create power (*1), it makes the most sense to get a bigger alt to actually create(*1) more power for the system



*1 actually alt's dont create power, they convert one type of energy to another.
 
You know, the only reason why I considered the batcap to begin with was I hear the alt is a little bit of a pain to change compared to other cars. The gf's alt is right on top, and no obstructions to access the bolts. But, her 95 blazer is a lot different than my LS.
 
pektel said:
I hear the alt is a little bit of a pain to change compared to other cars.
Click to expand...

easy probably not, i believe it just takes some patience and a little wiggling, you have to get it turned just right for it to come out, who doesn't like a little puzzle?

It can't be any where near as intensive as the rear end swap. its probably about as hard as doing brakes with out the caliper kit.
 
1LoudLS said:
with you already having a yellow top, i wouldn't worry about getting a better battery until after you get an alt,

I hate when people argue with me over the "extra battery will kill your alt"

If your alt doesn't put out enough amperage to power the car and all the stereo stuff, how is it supposed to also keep another battery charged on top of all the other stuff? trick question, it can't

batteries dont create power, they just store it, if your not creating(*1) as much or more power than your using, then your eventually going to end up with two dead batteries and a burned up alt.

since the alt is the only device in the car that can create power (*1), it makes the most sense to get a bigger alt to actually create(*1) more power for the system



*1 actually alt's dont create power, they convert one type of energy to another.
Click to expand...

cudnt have sed it better myself....
 
G555... Laser read my mind

If you can't afford that then the g5's for the win... period... end of story

You can get Alpine Type r's for DIRT right now
 
pektel said:
These are the ones I found:

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35089
Click to expand...

For $200 I would jump on one or both of them if I was you. It's usually double that for one sub so that's a great deal. The alternator isn't that hard to change. It's pretty basic, only tricky thing is getting it in and out of the engine bay. Real tight space that you have to twist and maneuver the alt in and out. That seriously is the hardest part. Everything else is pretty standard.
 
Just blew a f*cking tire. There goes my $200 for a sub. motherf*cking whore.
 
hey guys i have a quick question, in my ls i have all four door speakers and the only in the rea deck ampped up with each getting about 35 watts and a sub thats getting about 250 watts all from an xlpod xm-5140gsx. CAn anyone tell me a good entry level amp that would be better then this amp
 
So, probably narrowed down to these. Which will give the best SQ from the following?

RE SXX 12" dual 2 ohm:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_...ual-Voice-Coil-2-OHM-Car-Audio-Subwoofer.html

DC Level 4 12" dual 2 ohm: Only if I can find one in the 200 range.
http://www.audiojunkies.com/product/751/dc-sound-lab-level-4-12-reviews

Memphis Mojo 12" dual 2 ohm:
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35089

Just wondering which one would be better SQ wise.

Thanks for all the help so far, guys.
 
pektel said:
So, probably narrowed down to these. Which will give the best SQ from the following?

RE SXX 12" dual 2 ohm:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_...ual-Voice-Coil-2-OHM-Car-Audio-Subwoofer.html

DC Level 4 12" dual 2 ohm: Only if I can find one in the 200 range.
http://www.audiojunkies.com/product/751/dc-sound-lab-level-4-12-reviews

Memphis Mojo 12" dual 2 ohm:
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35089

Just wondering which one would be better SQ wise.

Thanks for all the help so far, guys.
Click to expand...

i say go for the re's!!! the mojo aren't a matching pair as they are from different years and should have diff specs even tho they are part of the mojo series. dont really have to much experience with dc audio but i hear they are pretty good. my gut says go with the re audio's and you wont b dissappointed if you put it in the right box....
 
I'm thinking RE too, just wanted to know if one were looking at it from an SQ standpoint, which one would be best.

I was only going to buy one of the mojo's. I don't think my amp is big enough to push 2 of them.
 
Honestly I would not buy the new RE. RE got new ownership and redesigned their gear a few years back and it doesn't compare to the old.

However the previous owner has his new company and it is very much like the old RE. It is Fi.

I would look into the Fi Q series, it is comparable to the old RE SX - one of the great "SQL" woofers is what they call them, because of the nice trade off of SQ and SPL.
 
yea but the re xxx and the mt's still kick ass...even the new ones....also fi btl's are the sh*t...but lets not get crazy and start namin like the top subs of all time....then pektel will never decide wut sub to get..
 
pektel said:
I'm thinking RE too, just wanted to know if one were looking at it from an SQ standpoint, which one would be best.
Click to expand...

i'm pretty sure that at this level, SQ is going to be more or less subjective as with most high end products, every body is going to say that the ones that they have is going to be the best, unless you can find where somebody did a side by side comparison of the two
 
go for the eclipse titanium if you dont like the phoenix golds...
 
Sound quality is gonna depend on the box that the speaker is in at this point. Like loud said it is going to be a bias opinion so get what you want. I would love a mojo though. I have a M series(right below the mojo series) and one 15" subs is louder than most 2 12's setup. I have always used memphis subs and will continue too. Sound great and can take any abuse I throw at it. Good luck!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 207 (members: 0, guests: 207)
Back
Top