Dynoed today - would like some Feedback

no! lol, so just pull the harness off the coilpacks, remove a spark plug, thread in the tester and have someone hold the throttle down and crank it for like 5 secs?

Do you need to remove all the spark plugs while testing each cylinder? I know at wot the engine won't turn on the fuel while your trying to start it.

I've searched, anyone have a procedure for this on our cars?
 
I pull the plug from the one I'm testing, screw in tester, crank at WOT like you said and take a reading. Remove the tester and put the plug back in. Move onto the next cylinder.

Just make sure you test with all the plugs in or none in because it will change your cranking speed if you start with none out and end with 7 out....

I like leak down tests better.
 
that makes sense, compression sounds very easy to do. It's a good time to swap in some different spark plugs.
 
fuel pressure = 31-32 psi at idle, 41-42 no vac on the FPR. WOT 40-42, hard to keep my eyes on the guage... Thats about right for a stock regulator right?

Bad thing is the line doesnt hold pressure on key on. Cold starts I have to prime it a couple times to get the fuel pressure to spike at the normal 40-42
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
fuel pressure = 31-32 psi at idle, 41-42 no vac on the FPR. WOT 40-42, hard to keep my eyes on the guage... Thats about right for a stock regulator right?

Bad thing is the line doesnt hold pressure on key on. Cold starts I have to prime it a couple times to get the fuel pressure to spike at the normal 40-42
Click to expand...

Pressure's up to spec.

It should prime up when you start up anytime without cycling the key. It is best to turn the key on and hesitate a couple seconds before cranking the engine to start.

Check how long it takes to leak down after shutting it down. It's normal to leak down but it takes a while. If it leaks off quickly, it could be the regulator or the check valve in the fuel pump.
 
Leaks immediatley, so prolly check valve, cuz fuel pressure at wot is good so I doubt it's the FPR.
 
well i know its the pump, if it doesn't prime whats the big deal? If i'm getting appropriate fp while the engines on?
 
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/intank_install_tips.html

ugh i should have just cut the stupid cap off the fuel pump outlet, apparently this isn't common for walbros to not hold fp cuz its super easy for the check valve to come out?

broken.jpg


This is the culprit, damn thing on the outlet is known to come off when you remove the cover cap for the outlet (the red plastic cap)


no_ring.jpg


The white tip coming out of the outlet is the part of the checkvalve
 
Sounds like you know whats up now Abe, the decision is wether you can deal with longer cranks or you want to fix it.... it isn't hindering performance.
 
hmm im like 270 so i can understand the qt mile be a tenth or two off... but dyno i dont get... still waiting for my friend to give me back my compression tester.
 
What you need to do is put that car back to 100% stock or as close as you can reasonably do and then put it on a dyno and see what it does... baseline #'s go a long long way in figuring out if there is a problem or not.

I'm just itching to go crazy on my car but I want to get baseline #'s to evaluate all of my mods.

My guess is that you are losing power through the converter somehow... if it was OBD II I would log slip in the converter.... but unfortunately you can't do that....

Other guesses (which is all they are) totally wacked out AFR, wacked out load #'s....
 
I'm not sure exactly what it is. The motor feels strong... I would bet on driller saying that they probably didn't get full lock up. I am not sure what the characteristics are though of a dyno not locking up. But I know my car locks up because in 4th if I give it a bit of gas the rpms will go down bit.

That or plugs... damn copper plugs! No life expectency! Can't wait to get the compression test numbers up on this post.

Since i'm going to be spraying sooner then later I mind as well throw my .038 AL 103's in their. But NA driving is funkier then with out the 764's.

Does anyone spray with AL 764's at .048?
 
When you do a compression test you are supposed to take every spark plug out at the same time and you should take out your fuel pump relay so your not load your cylinders up with fuel
 
i agree about the stock intake i tried the conical on my gen one and my gen 2. they both ran lower et's and ran rich way rich stock air box with k and n. meet the engines demands
dyno sheets
IMG_0001.jpg

gen 2 stock tune svt focus pump airbox removed k&N

IMG_0004.jpg

gen 1 airbox removed k&N
 
I have a conical on both the 98 and 96 Mark VIII. Would do it again if I had to as well, no regrets here.
 
was your cone in the fender or hot air? The dirty mafs, worn plugs (and no dielectric grease) and crap battery were I believe the reasons for my pull on the low side.

before i did any of this though when i put the cone back in the engine bay, felt like I lost some steam, but it may be because I gothe mafs even dirtier from cleaning and lubing the cone but i doubt it since it was many miles after i cleaned it and had it in the fender.
 
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