Dynoed today - would like some Feedback

ILLS said:
Another item that I see that may be the case. I get the impression that you are making some of these changes, especially to the intake tube and MAFS placement without getting a following custom tune to recalibrate it.
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Yes he has a "canned tune" from LMS..
THe dyno operator is not the same guy that tuned the chip.
He also spraying the car with a canned tune.

he's done the opposite of everything that was suggested, refuses to listen, argues..then waits two weeks and returns with more BS data...then want to split hairs.

*tosses in the towel*

Thanks for Chiming In ILLS.. you did a far better job than I did in regards to expressing your concerns.

Since you said many of the same things I said in regards to baseline, dyno operation etc.. MAYBE the kid will listen to you..

I seriously doubt the dyno operater did anything to his tune to lock the car in third gear.. Abe "assumes" he did...

I asked him about the AF trace, and I guess he doesnt know what that means,because he'd rather edit his sig file and attempt to piss me off..than worry about an "indicated 15-1 AF ratio"...:eek:
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
.

Awsf plugs are discontinued.
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wrong again carriage top boy.

awsf were not discontinued there were superceded by PN awsfA
the awsf 12c's and awsf 22c's are now called AWSFA 22c and 12 c respectively.

Again you take information that has been "spoon fed" to you and toss it on the floor.
Both Blue Oval Chips AND Dennis Reinhart BOTH sell those plugs on their website.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
Ok well I popped the cone filter on the end of the maf adapter, I'll see if I can find another air box if that's the case. I've had good traps but low ets. Hmm so I'm losing hp up top. The cone is straight, I'm pretty sure my mafs has a screen. I'm gonna assume this wouldn't screw up my dyno that much...I bet it's something with fuel system somehow, I gonna order a fuel guage that'll go before my fuel selenoid in my n20 kit cuz the schrader valve is in use.
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*serious post*

Abe, putting the filter on the end of the maf via an adapter isn't going to help.
you say the cone is straight, but consider this.

The cone filter has the air entering from the SIDE, then it has to turn and go "down the maf" after it enters the filter.

IMHO the set up you had with the bend.. is probably better and more tunable than just the cone stuck to the end of the maf in the "hot air intake" configuration.



Does that make sense?

Also, you used the "assume" word again in this post... stop doing that lol
 
ILLS said:
1) A tuner CAN lock out whatever gear they want to pull your car on and have it stay in JUST that gear even when you go WOT on the dyno. Same goes for the TC lockup. After the tune is done those temporarily modified parameters are switched back to normal and now the trans operated normally again.
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Key word "tuner". And not all "tuners" will deal with eec-iv and be able to control TC lockup. If you go to a typical "group dyno-session", they do nothing to the tune or bother to control the transmission other than lock out OD with the shifter button.

ILLS said:
The whole MAFS itself calibrated specifically for a bend in the intake stuff is not accurate. Precalibrated MAFS, in that sense, are just a rough in job of calibration. VERY roughed in. That is what the old Fox body Mustang guys always did and still try to do.
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True, but even being 'roughed in' is better than a stock calibration OEM MAFS with modified inlet tubing.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
everything ive touched has turn to crap? Wheres your gen I??
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wheres my gen 1?

well some of your crackhead friends that you hired STOLE it, because you were mad because it made more power, was faster and ran better than your car.

Too bad they botched the job, because I got ALL the performance parts back and they will soon be on my SECOND GEN and it'll be light years ahead of your car..(smack talk smile)

Thanks for having your thug friends steal my car, because I would have never gotten rid of it without your help.

Now I have a better car with less miles and in the end all you gonna see is a "NICE VIEW" of that SEXY TAILLIGHT!

Get used to seeing this bro
sigpic7745_3.gif


haha

seriously..I'm just bustin your balls bro..dont get mad
 
driller said:
Key word "tuner". And not all "tuners" will deal with eec-iv and be able to control TC lockup. If you go to a typical "group dyno-session", they do nothing to the tune or bother to control the transmission other than lock out OD with the shifter button.
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Well if this kid wants the results he is going to have to bite the money-bullet and pony up for the proper work. He cannot get something for nothing. If ya do halfassed testing then expect halfassed results. From the way people talk in here I get the impression that you, Driller, take the time to make sure things are right with your combo; or at least pay someone to verify that. In the case above I am sure I am speaking to the choir with what I just said, but this Abe kid may still need to learn that lesson.



driller said:
True, but even being 'roughed in' is better than a stock calibration OEM MAFS with modified inlet tubing.
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Regardless if it may be better or not, it still isn't an actual full recalibration like what happens in with custom tuning. Depending on how extensive the modifications that were made the calibration could be off a ways. Or it could only be off a bit in certain MAF Count cells. All I am saying is do not expect a "precalibrated MAFS" to replace the neccessity of custom tuning when modding a vehicle. Still to determine whether the tune needs tweaked datalogging with AFR's will have to be performed. It seems like the guess, then make another guess approach is being used here. The problem is that the guessing approach usually ends up taking 3 times as long and costs more than just doing it right the first time. Much more headache too.
 
I don't spray with the tune on there. I always pull the chip and put in my n20 plugs if I know im going to be spraying (bottle filled).

The schrader valve is removed out of my fuel rail! The threads on the rail are pretty weak so I am not going to remove the valve piece that the fuel line screws onto (fuel line for the wet kit) ... So I cannot put a fuel pressure guage on there. On Monday, I am going to order a FP guage that will fit on the fitting before my fuel selenoid.

Yes I am going to redyno it with a sniffer on the tailpipe, fuel pressure guage on the rail and the factory airbox in place to rule out any mafs problems. I am also going to put in some fresh spark plugs. Autolites is what I have been running, so I'll give the copper motorcrafts a try. I've read on TCCoA that because we have a "knock sensor" that we the marks should go for 2 heat ranges lower. Members here use a wide variety of plugs in different ranges. I still have my stock platinum ones, so for :q:q:q:qs and giggles maybe ill just throw my stock ones in there, since im trying to find a base tune.


I was unaware about the mafs needing linear airflow, so until I dig my airbox out I am going to just keep the cone filter on the end there hot air and all. (or ill get crafty and try to fab a heatshield out of an iceman at a local parts store.

I am running denso 02 sensors, that could be an issue I guess. I checked the engine codes, running and off... no codes. I'm gonna clean the mafs today and get ready for another pull. When I come up with something over 220whp (no tune) i'll run another couple pulls with the spray and let ya see what we got going on.

Thanks for the input. I got money - I just don't know how much more I want to put into the Mark.

Another thing that peeves me as well as food for thought is that two of my FFRP wires don't fit completely flush on the screamin demon CP's.

I'm going to grab some beers getting ready for the steelers to whoop on the cardinals!
 
Good Luck Abe..sounds like a solid plan.

halftime show might be good, the rest is..meh..football
 
XLRVIII said:
*serious post*


The cone filter has the air entering from the SIDE, then it has to turn and go "down the maf" after it enters the filter.
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my cone filter has filtering matrial on the top as well, so it does not neccesarily enter from the side ftw.
 
ILLS said:
From the way people talk in here I get the impression that you, Driller, take the time to make sure things are right with your combo; or at least pay someone to verify that.
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If nothing else, I am obsessively compulsive and persistent. I verify everything at the track.



ILLS said:
Regardless if it may be better or not, it still isn't an actual full recalibration like what happens in with custom tuning.
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If it wasn't already apparent, I agree with you 100% - the custom tuning is what brings it all together.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
what mph does the converter lock? and will it lock at full throttle?
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It's all in the tune. With my '93 switched to stock tune, the lockup is stupid low with 4.30s. I honestly forget what the lockup speed is in the other tunes.

It 'can' lock at full throttle but that depends upon a myriad of factors including speed. Again, on the dyno with no PCM control, you have to roll into it at a steady and long enough run to allow the TC to lock up. Then the speed has to be high enough before WOT to not unlock the TC when you go WOT. Even then, it is a coin-toss.
 
Enjoy your genii, I had a bad battery btw, don't know if that matters. Replaced it with a opt red top ftw
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
Enjoy your genii, I had a bad battery btw, don't know if that matters. Replaced it with a opt red top ftw
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Bad battery can cause all kind of goofy crap to occur.
Low voltage to the coils causing spark blow out
Low voltage to the fuel pump causing low fuel pressure.

None of the sensors can reporty correctly if their voltage is fubar.

Will you gain 20HP..dunno..but it's a step in the right direction.
 
I took it to get tested, because it was pretty old and was having trouble cold starting. It failed miserably. I have experience with the redtop, its a great product. What I look for is cost/warranty. The base battery was 100 bucks with 2 year warranty, and this one is 5 and it was 160.
 
Do a compression test... and let us know what you find. How many miles on the motor?
 
127k i have a tester, but its for a SBC. Think that it will work for the 32v. The threads i've read are very weak, so I didn't want to take a chance.
 
NO it wont work....
now maybe he'll run out there and try and prove me wrong...

haha
 
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