DTC P0232 fuel pump

dnsherrill

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no fuel pressure 35 miles from home, ....swapped pwr dist box relays: fuel pump with the horn relay....horn works, fuel pump does not.....cheapest I've found is $580 to remove and replace assembly for an Airtex....car has 179k....may never see 180; taxi to work, tow home tonight....
:mad:
dang it
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fuel filter replaced less than 20k ago
 
Its not "hard" but its not fun to do in a driveway. If ya had to do it in a driveway (without a lift) I'd get the tallest jack stands I could... I've got a set of the cheap ramp jacks I've used, wasn't too bad with those then a floor jack and a piece of ply board about the size of the tank to lift it back up. Its much better when the tank isn't FULL like mine was
 
The O.F.A.G is easy, if you have a lift. Fuel sender is still easier..

Full tank sucks. I'd get a pressure pump for a truck and some fuel hose and make a syphon, remove filler hose from tank and suck that sucker down into a couple cans first

I dunno why everyone always hopes its the inertia switch, I guess it COULD be, and its worth the Free check to make sure its pushed in.. but I wouldn't count on it, those are designed to pop in a collision, even thou you can pop them by kicking the driver side 1/4 panel (anyone ever done that to a cop car?? LoL)
 
good stuff here
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=38342&highlight=inertia
I did not hear the aforementioned 'whir' after turning key from OFF to ON before starting....hopefully the pump is just not getting voltage, can't start out by throwing money and parts at it...$45 to get it towed home after work tonight, troubleshoot over the w/e...cross my fingers driving one of my backups tomoro/friday
 
Jack passenger side rear up, stick leg under passenger side of tank, kick, lower car, start, go home and drop your tank
 
post a pic of, or describe where the inertia cutoff switch is?
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Looks like the brakes are on hold until fuel pressure returns...I hate, eh...love my car!
 
I swapped my pump out in the 94 while it was in the garage. Had the whole car setting up on jack stands and I used the hydraulic hack and a piece of wood to lower and raise the tank. Really wasn't that bad of a job. Just make sure the ring gasket is setting flat when the metal ring is put in place because if it has one little kink in it, it will leak gas from that kink. Been there and done that before when I bought the car. Use a flat head screw driver to knock the ring clockwise, until it's tight. Reconnect all hoses as you raise it back up in place. That's if you really want to see exactly what you're doing but it can be done by just lowering the passengers side down far enough to get to it.

If the tank is full, siphon gas into 5 gallon gas jugs until you have about a 1/4 tank or so and undo the passengers side strap, disconnect the hoses, including the loop hose in the middle and it will be low enough to swap. I have done it both ways. IIRC, it took me about an hour to hour 1/2 from start to finish. I wasn't trying to rush anything but noway in hell would I pay no $500+ to have one swapped out. I think you have a different issue and running the tank below 1/4 tank too much shouldn't have anything to do with not having power. It plugs in at the harness on top of the tank. I would check for voltage first, before removing the pump. If there is none, then find the cause for no voltage. Could be something simple that doesn't even require lowering the tank at all.

You keep mentioning the inertia switch. Did you press it back in to see if it was even tripped?
 
so far, I've only swapped relays with the horn relay;...fuse, relay, fp driver module, inertia switch...
 
The switch is in the flap where the air ride switch is, left side of inner trunk

Running the tank low isn't good, the pump doesn't get cooled or lubed by fuel enough

It could be the module.. in which case just go ahead and take the car apart and sell the pieces you don't wanna save for your other one... unless you happen to find another 96 one, since they're specific for that year
 
It could be the module.. in which case just go ahead and take the car apart and sell the pieces you don't wanna save for your other one... unless you happen to find another 96 one, since they're specific for that year
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"this FPDM will fit '01 -'04 Cobras and '99 - '04 Mustang GT's"...???
---yea, parking the brown one and stripping it for the white one is def on my mind...I would start with removing/reusing suspension, headlights, tires....lots of other stuff as well, exhaust eventually..no heat (yet) on the white one...blend door actuator in hand
 
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"this FPDM will fit '01 -'04 Cobras and '99 - '04 Mustang GT's"...???

Uhh..no
96 specific is your FPDM, as is your door lock module, ECU, SCIL. And of course the HIDs headlights at random on LSC models
 
eh, my bad....that's from a posting about a '97
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that posting on the other Mark site says the FPDM can be eliminated and the car will run...it just shortens the life of the FP...???
 
Any why the hell would you want to save the Base exhaust.. to use on another Base?

Cut the cats off, sell them as "scrap only" and use the pipes to beat dumb people
 
eh, the brown one has modded exh..re-use that
---anyone tried top-access FP mod? floorboard cut-out for trouble shooting and remove/replace?
 
finally got it back in the driveway...tapped on the gas tank..nothing; I don't hear the fp when I turn the key from OFF to RUN..elec t/s tbd...
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How do I 'hot wire' the fuel pump so i can test it?
 
trying to decide which fuel pump to buy---maybe this one w/out new module (Walboro oem) from
Fuel Pumps.com?
http://www.fuelpumps.com/lincoln-fu...-p-2252.html?zenid=34kmdt54gm1gdpf5mor2v9tld6
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or this Airtex E2070H (with new module)... for a pretty good price?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380551789839?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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:feedback
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here's the best deal I've found, Bosch for $160 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BOSCH-6...&vxp=mtr&hash=item25622bf8fd&autorefresh=true
 
Disconnect*fuel pump*driver module and jump power and ground to the brown/white and pink/black wires.*

Control_Flow.jpg


I expect free medical services
 
thanks, what page is that in my '96 EVTM? i don't know where the FPDM is located
- I had another idea...since my driveway looks like this
P2150143_zps3e329b8a.jpg

and the white one has 109k w/ a working FP, and will become my dd eventually, and the brown one has 180k, a dead FP and is working towards immobility; maybe I should swap fuel tanks then put the new unused FP into the white one???
....I hope 24'' jack stands be good enough to drop the tank(s)
free Obamacare yes..just stop working and hide or give away all your assets...done
 
i did the pump in my car myself. its pretty easy. cost around $100.

Jack passenger side rear up, stick leg under passenger side of tank, kick, lower car, start, go home and drop your tank

:lol: That brings back memories. When the FP crapped out on my '96 back around '06 or '07, it died at the daycare when I was picking up the kids. I took the tire iron out of the trunk and beat the bottom of the gas tank a couple of times, got in, started it up, drove it home, and it sat for a couple of weeks until I could find a decent pump. I got a used complete FP assembly off fleabay for $25 bucks and installed it in the driveway. It was a PITA because I had just filled up the stinkin' tank the morning of the day it died :eek: But it's definitely not a job I'd pay someone to do. It' s not that difficult. It makes it a lot easier if the tank is empty though. :)
 

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