DIY Transmission Full Fluid Exchange (Flush)

how does the fluid exchange machine that the dealerships have work exactly?

vacuums fluid from cooler hose and pumps new fluid back in?

Picture a big clear cylinder with a disk in it. To the right of the disk is fresh new fluid. They hook it up to the cooler lines and start the car. The transmission itself pumps the old fluid out. As it fills up on the left side of the cylinder, it pushes the disk and forces the new fluid into the transmission. They stop it a little bit after fresh clean fluid starts to come into the left side.
 
Picture a big clear cylinder with a disk in it. To the right of the disk is fresh new fluid. They hook it up to the cooler lines and start the car. The transmission itself pumps the old fluid out. As it fills up on the left side of the cylinder, it pushes the disk and forces the new fluid into the transmission. They stop it a little bit after fresh clean fluid starts to come into the left side.

this process changes the fluid in the drain pan too?
 
I would be very, very nervous about constantly starting the engine with only 1-2qt of atf in there to check if its flushed. I feel like that could easily cause damage but maybe i'm reading the procedure wrong?

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
 
I would be very, very nervous about constantly starting the engine with only 1-2qt of atf in there to check if its flushed. I feel like that could easily cause damage but maybe i'm reading the procedure wrong?

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

The entire system holds about 12QT of Mercon V.
The pan holds about 4-5QT.

You drain the pan, do your thing, and refill it. Technically your fluid won't be low at all (minus a few drops maybe).

Only then you move on to change the rest of the fluid: disconnect the return hose, start the car, drain 1QT, shut it down, and add the same amount of new fluid back in (into the pan). I suggest doing your research before tackling this project. A lot could go wrong.
 
The entire system holds about 12QT of Mercon V.
The pan holds about 4-5QT.

You drain the pan, do your thing, and refill it. Technically your fluid won't be low at all (minus a few drops maybe).

Only then you move on to change the rest of the fluid: disconnect the return hose, start the car, drain 1QT and add the same amount of new fluid back in (into the pan). I suggest doing your research before tackling this project. A lot could go wrong.

IMHO, WELL worth the money the dealer charges. When you DIY don't forget to add in the price of the fluid.
 
IMHO, WELL worth the money the dealer charges. When you DIY don't forget to add in the price of the fluid.

If you trust your dealer..

I saved about $300 by doing it myself, probably more because Canada, and I know it was done right without having to worry whether or not they actually changed the fluid, if the level is correct, etc. I have zero trust in the local Ford dealers.

It may seem like a big deal at first but this isn't a difficult job. The key is understanding how the system works and what you are trying to accomplish, as opposed to blindly following instructions.
 
this process changes the fluid in the drain pan too?

surely the dealership drops the pan, changes the filter, accomplishes other maintenance needs in there and then "re-pans" and fills to correct level before commencing this fluid flush? am I missing something about the new and old fluid mixing in the pan?
 
surely the dealership drops the pan, changes the filter, accomplishes other maintenance needs in there and then "re-pans" and fills to correct level before commencing this fluid flush? am I missing something about the new and old fluid mixing in the pan?

No need to drop the pan...
 
surely the dealership drops the pan, changes the filter, accomplishes other maintenance needs in there and then "re-pans" and fills to correct level before commencing this fluid flush? am I missing something about the new and old fluid mixing in the pan?

Correct. Drop the pan, change the 4-5QT, then flush the remaining amount.

Since the fluid runs from the pan, through the filter, through the transmission, into the cooler and then back into the pan, the only old fluid that will go back into the pan is in the cooler return line, thus a very insignificant amount. Plus anything that can drip from the internals (valve body) back into the pan.

If the pan wasn't drained and re-filled, it would take a lot more fresh fluid to accomplish a full exchange.

No need to drop the pan...

Correct, you could just drain the pan and fill it back up, but why leave an old filter in there?
 
Correct, you could just drain the pan and fill it back up, but why leave an old filter in there?

What I meant was no need to drop the pan in order to do a flush. I've had it done 3 or 4 times.
 
I appreciate the clarification. I plan on doing this in the near future ('00 ls8; 90k), and I'm sad to say I don't know a dealer I trust. did a 4l30e some days ago (fill thru the level check plug in the pan; no dipstick), and feel I can safely accomplish it. it is a bit messy, though. I guess I kinda like that sorta thing.
 
apparently there is no such thing as a transmission flush here in Toronto Canada I called two Ford Lincoln dealerships they don't have the machine to do a complete transmission fluid change they only do drain and fill one dealer even said to me its not recommended for my car because its old and i might have problems after the drain and fill

what hell is wrong with these dealerships?
 
apparently there is no such thing as a transmission flush here in Toronto Canada I called two Ford Lincoln dealerships they don't have the machine to do a complete transmission fluid change they only do drain and fill one dealer even said to me its not recommended for my car because its old and i might have problems after the drain and fill

what hell is wrong with these dealerships?

I never liked calling it a "flush" - try calling the ones up here lol.
 
I never liked calling it a "flush" - try calling the ones up here lol.

why? they don't even do drain and fills up there? I wouldn't be surprised the service tech i talked to at the second dealer said even if they had a flush machine and they were to flush it they wouldnt be able to get all the old fluid out of the torque converter he said the torque converter would have to be removed from the car to get all the old fluid out...fukin idiots

now i know why you don't trust your dealers these guys are only used to doing oil change and air filter change i guess that kinda service flies with the people going to the dealerships for service since they have brand new cars that they keep for only a few yrs and after get another brand new car
 
Yeah, absolutely, you are spot on.

Try calling iGarage. Might be a little far, but Ivan does great work from what I've seen and heard: http://www.igarage.ca/
 
Yeah, absolutely, you are spot on.

Try calling iGarage. Might be a little far, but Ivan does great work from what I've seen and heard: http://www.igarage.ca/

i have no problem doing it myself i was just calling to check how much the dealer would charge thanks anyway

when you opened the inner plug 2 QT of fluid drained out i opened the inner plug this morning (car leveled) and only 1 QT of fluid drained out so i'm guessing i was low on fluid after all
 
Sounds like it. So top it off and let us know if it helps?
 
Sounds like it. So top it off and let us know if it helps?

added another litre i;ve disconnected the battery and will go through relearn procedure for good measure
 
safety first i always put bricks under the car by the jacks in case the jacks somehow fail the skull and rib cage will easily get crushed

i suggest using this pump http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009VUTVEQ/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you can go through a litre of fluid in just a few pumps very fast and easy to use

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With so many ways this can go south it's worth it, to me, to just get the points on my American Express!
 
With so many ways this can go south it's worth it, to me, to just get the points on my American Express!

http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/512009/scissor-jack-warning-mine-collapsed-this-weekend

yeah it does happen

"I was using my scissor jack to jack up my Taurus this weekend when it suddenly gave out - sending the car (with loosened lug nuts) swiftly to the ground!! Now, I wasn't going to get underneath the car until the jack stand was in place (it was waiting by the passenger door and actually scratched/dented the car slightly as it fell to the ground), but still - the sight of this collapse shook me up a bit. Looking at the scissor jack, there is this puny 1" long solid block-like piece that sits within the frame that the threaded screw passes through. It appears that the inner threads of this block just wore out, causing the threaded screw to slide right through it! Should've known something was up because the jack had gotten hard to turn at very low height (with no load). I had lubricated it a couple times with no real effect, but didn't think to investigate it any further."

also i remember watching on the news a while ago someone was doing oil change when the jack failed


"I use multiple methods since I'm super paranoid. I leave the jack under whatever end I'm working on, plus use stands (high quality locking), plus shove tires under the sides just in case the first two fail (jack loses pressure, stands slip out, etc). Sometimes I mix ramps in there as well.

I will never again use a cheap jack. Right now I'm using a $350 craftsman. I've had $100 and less jacks fail (which is what makes me so paranoid).

If I'm going to die in a car related accident I'd rather be piloting it than crushed by it."
 

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