DDM Tuning

suicidal66 said:
Is this the best place to get H.I.D's.
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i sure think so
suicidal66 said:
If so what exactly do I need to order?
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go here and find out what bulb size you have, as different generation has different sizes
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/
then go here and order it
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=85&pg=1
as you see there are different kits, the raptor's are cheaper and have bigger ballast, the slim ballast kits have smaller ballast (which are easier to hide) and cost more money.

i would also recommend the error code eliminators to keep you from getting a warming light on the dash board

then pick the temp (color), the higher you go the more blue/ricer/gay it looks
stock is 4300k
 
Long_Island_LS said:
i have 5000k DDM slim kits in my lowbeams and foglights...they work flawlessly, every time. i have the realys on each set for added protection, but i probably dont need them. 100% plug n play, just becareful of reversed polarity issues, drove me nuts!
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I'm happy with mine also. I blew up one of the bulb out warning eliminators not paying enough attention to polarity but I am not getting a bulb out message with the relay kit installed. I might end up doing the fogs too since the hoen bulbs don't look white enough anymore.
 
I've put five sets of HID's on LSs & Mark VIIIs , Gen I & II, and every one had the same issues no matter if a relay was used or not:

1. Autolamps would almost always cause only one HID to come on, then throw a lamp out message. All you has to do was turn the headlights off manually, then back on and that would fix it 95% of the time.

2. If you start the car with the HIDs on, the voltage drop from the starter will cause one or both to turn off, requiring a reset as above.

I tried grounding the ballasts to the body as someone suggested, but it had no effect on symptoms.

I have read that "cheap HIDs" cause these problems. Well I had the exact same issues with all three different brands at three price points. So I believe the issue lies within the car's electrical system and how the voltage sensors are set up on the headlight circuits, not with any particular brand of aftermarket HIDs.

Any electrical engineering types around here?
 
mine work pretty good...on occasion one wioll start to flicker all types of colors but for the most part...work great every time....also....xtremehids.com was one of my more reliable places in the us to order....not affiliated with them but they r good...
 
twinbopilot said:
...
Any electrical engineering types around here?
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At least one or two...

If the HID ballasts are correctly designed for the environment they are to be installed in, then you won't have any of the problems you listed. I have OEM HIDs on my 06, and have never had any of those issues.
The problem is not with the car's electrical system, it's with the cheap design of the aftermarket units. (Note that cheaply designed does not always mean inexpensive to buy. Just because you pay a high price doesn't mean you are getting an expensive or better item.)
 
twinbopilot said:
Autolamps would almost always cause only one HID to come on, then throw a lamp out message. All you has to do was turn the headlights off manually, then back on and that would fix it 95% of the time.
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I have this issue on my Mark VIII without relays. So far so good with the LS. I believe while using the autolamp the headlights try and turn on while the car is being started. I believe the voltage drop with the starting cranking keeps the ballasts from being able to light the bulbs.

However joegr is right the real problem is not the car it's the design of the kit. My Mark lit up every time on autolamp with the factory HIDs.
 
Is there any benefit of the 55watt vs. the 35watt? The look I guess I'm shootin for is like the newer Maxima's, any suggestions on what I need?
 
55W is preferable for low beams. Some cars, like the Lincoln LS, are better off with 35W in the fog lights, because the light scatters so much. You can put 35W as low beams, but you'd be getting a lot less light.
 
55w in the fogs would be way too much glare and light everywhere. Go 35w in fogs, I guess you could do 55w in the lows. You have to go up a little higher in the temp color with 55w to get the color output you actually want. LIke 6000k would look more like a 4300k-5000k.
 
How this sound?

2 55W 5000k 9005's for the highs
2 55W 5000k 9006's for the lows
2 35W 500k H10's for the fog's
And Do I need 4 or 6 error code eliminators?

I appreciate the help!
 
I just got my kit in yesterday. I had hid fogs and lows for years now, but one of my ballast went bad and was out of warranty. I ordered a DDM kit basically to replace that one ballast. Works great and installed in minutes. Now I have spare bulbs and one ballast with lifetime warranties. Best bang for the buck kit.
 
How this sound?

2 55W 5000k 9005's for the highs
2 55W 5000k 9006's for the lows
2 35W 500k H10's for the fog's
And Do I need 4 or 6 error code eliminators?

I appreciate the help!
 
Unless you live out in the middle of nowhere where you use your hi's to drive a lot,you prob shouldn't put them in the highs. I only use my highs for curtesy flashes, never driven with them. HIDs are good for on/off flashes. They take a few seconds to light up. You could go with some hoen bulbs for your hi's,halogen bulbs that are color matched for stock hid color. It is your car though, if you still want HIDs in your HI's, go for it. The fogs dont need the error codes elliminators, only the headlight.Not sure if the hi's do though.
 
twinbopilot said:
I've put five sets of HID's on LSs & Mark VIIIs , Gen I & II, and every one had the same issues no matter if a relay was used or not:

1. Autolamps would almost always cause only one HID to come on, then throw a lamp out message. All you has to do was turn the headlights off manually, then back on and that would fix it 95% of the time.

2. If you start the car with the HIDs on, the voltage drop from the starter will cause one or both to turn off, requiring a reset as above.
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I would think if you primed the fuel system (I do every time I start a vehicle), that would give the ballasts enough time to light up and reduce amperage.. When they first are given power, they draw a lot of power igniting the light, then go to a steady amperage.. Most cheap ones are ~ 3.5 steady amps or something like that..
 
suicidal66 said:
How this sound?

2 55W 5000k 9005's for the highs
2 55W 5000k 9006's for the lows
2 35W 500k H10's for the fog's
And Do I need 4 or 6 error code eliminators?

I appreciate the help!
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IMHO 55W are a waste of money. The bulbs and ballasts typically do not last as long. 35W kits already produce a lot more light then halogen bulbs.


Alax7 said:
Unless you live out in the middle of nowhere where you use your hi's to drive a lot,you prob shouldn't put them in the highs. I only use my highs for curtesy flashes, never driven with them. HIDs are good for on/off flashes. They take a few seconds to light up. You could go with some hoen bulbs for your hi's,halogen bulbs that are color matched for stock hid color. It is your car though, if you still want HIDs in your HI's, go for it. The fogs dont need the error codes elliminators, only the headlight.Not sure if the hi's do though.
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I agree with Alax about the highs. HIDs take time to warm up and produce a reasonable amount of light. And they do not like on/off flashes.
 
Fog lamps size

Need some clarifications on fog lamp sizes. According to Sylvania bulb chart, 06' LS fogs are 9145 but on DDM website 9145 is crossed reference with H10. Now I'm seeing that some folks on here use H11, which is the same as low beams. Can someone clarify if any of this is true? Thank you.
 
Only thing I'd be able to tell u is h10/9145 r the same type of bulb I jus bought some hid lights and they had them listed as h10/9145. And google also showed results of them being the same bulb
 
dNyce LS said:
Only thing I'd be able to tell u is h10/9145 r the same type of bulb I jus bought some hid lights and they had them listed as h10/9145. And google also showed results of them being the same bulb
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Thanks for the info. Now I'm really confused with Lincoln Luebbe's comments. That's what I've been seeing on here. A lot of folks are using H11 for their fogs on the 06's.
 
+1 with lincoln luebbe.
Just got my lse bumper and the bulbs that came with the fogs are NOT 9145. They were H11
 
Alax7 said:
+1 with lincoln luebbe.
Just got my lse bumper and the bulbs that came with the fogs are NOT 9145. They were H11
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Thanks Alax7. This seals the deal for me. I might be ordering another set of H11s from DDM. I'm actually in the same boat as the OP. I ordered mine from DDM about five days ago and it's still in 'process' mode, not too happy with this. Thinking about ordering from somewhere else but I'm a little bit concerned about color mismatch eventhough they will both be 6000K. Anyone has any thoughts on this?
 
+2 '06 fogs are definitely H11. About to do a DDM HID install on mine (hopefully this weekend).

If you do order them from DDM, know that there is no 'connector' for the power side of the ballast (the side that is supposed to plug into your existing H11 bulb harness). They are just spade terminals that you are supposed to stick into the existing connector. Kinda cheesy and definitely not watertight. Been looking at ordering male H11 connectors on ebay...
 
HerbieTheMisfit said:
+2 '06 fogs are definitely H11. About to do a DDM HID install on mine (hopefully this weekend).

If you do order them from DDM, know that there is no 'connector' for the power side of the ballast (the side that is supposed to plug into your existing H11 bulb harness). They are just spade terminals that you are supposed to stick into the existing connector. Kinda cheesy and definitely not watertight. Been looking at ordering male H11 connectors on ebay...
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Man, that is cheesey. Even the cheaps HID conversion kits have dedicated harness for their ballasts. You'd think that DDM would include those in theor design :mad:
 
HerbieTheMisfit said:
+2 '06 fogs are definitely H11. About to do a DDM HID install on mine (hopefully this weekend).

If you do order them from DDM, know that there is no 'connector' for the power side of the ballast (the side that is supposed to plug into your existing H11 bulb harness). They are just spade terminals that you are supposed to stick into the existing connector. Kinda cheesy and definitely not watertight. Been looking at ordering male H11 connectors on ebay...
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+3 on the H11s

I just got a kit from DDM and it had waterproof connectors. One side comes apart easily so it can fit through the hole you have to drill to get the wires in/out of the headlight housing to the ballast.
 
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