crossover tube = replaceable?

Jacked the front end up and got a bit more radiator fluid in but with no luck. going to buy a radiator.
 
I decided to go ahead and change out the thermostat. When I pulled out the old one. It was stock. The holes in it that allow fluid and air bubbles to move from one side to the other were clogged. I put in a new one and when I put in the fluid one side was leaking. I got under to torque it down a bit and the side of the thermostat housing cracked. Now I have to wait for the ford dealership to open tomorrow to put a new one in. So much more work to get that entire housing off.
 
i have housings if ford cant get them. 90% cant be replaced from ford so who knows about the housings, but i do have some for a last resort.
 
yea got it replaced almost entirely still gotta get a couple clamps on. found out when i torqued it down the seal had fallen on the wrong place..60$ to ford :mad:
 
Myco said:
yea got it replaced almost entirely still gotta get a couple clamps on. found out when i torqued it down the seal had fallen on the wrong place..60$ to ford :mad:
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I wish you would call me "when" you have problems, rather than after you have broken stuff.

when you asked "how tight" those bolts should be, you were told "dont kill" them they dont have to be super tight...and you said "about as tight as the spark plugs".
God I hope your plugs aren't "as tight" as you tried to make the thermostat housing

Had you called me when it leaked I could have told you the oring was not in the right place, at that point you would have only needed a new oring, not the entire thermostat housing.
 
ok the radiator has been replaced. i just drove it on the freeway and it overheated again. i havent stayed on the freeway to see if it will go over the first white line. when it overheats it jumps up once right between the white line and middle and the next jump is right below (touching) the white line. i got off the freeway and kept driving on service roads. temp went back to normal. i decide to grab a bite after about 5 miles and as i stop tp make a u-turn the temp needs goes up and down like there is an airpocket.

ill burp it again tomorrow morning and then get a compression check done. i cant think of anythink else besides the cap, loose belt, bad oil pump. dunno
 
kustomizingkid said:
One of two things is wrong.

1. Not Burped Correctly

2. Smoke the head Gaskets
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You need to write a :q:q:q:qing EDU: on how to burp. Apparently you are the master of it. I just heard from a guy on another forum to leave the crossover cap off overnight as well as the overflow cap and then refill in the morning.

Things I thought I'd said but maybe not.

I am not loosing any coolant. None that I can tell.
No coolant is overflowing in the reservoir.
There is no particulars in the coolant. Even the old radiator looked clean.
There is no foam in the coolant.
This problem has gotten better. At first it would overheat after 5 miles. Now it overheats (severely) only when load is put on it.

None of those say that the headgasket is good though.
 
Easy :q:q:q:q dude...

The MOST important part is to geta funnel that is the right size so it screws into the crossover but not fall out or restrict flow...

Lift the front of the car up about a foot...

Take of both caps and start filling through the crossover until the level is full in the reservoir

Put reservoir cap on

Continue Filling until the crossover is FULL and that includes the funnel

Then start the car and just let it run...

All sorts of bubbles will come out and just let it run until they stop, then I'd just let it sit and cool down and run it again...

If that don't work your head gaskets are boned...
 
kustomizingkid said:
Easy :q:q:q:q dude...

The MOST important part is to geta funnel that is the right size so it screws into the crossover but not fall out or restrict flow...

Lift the front of the car up about a foot...

Take of both caps and start filling through the crossover until the level is full in the reservoir

Put reservoir cap on

Continue Filling until the crossover is FULL and that includes the funnel

Then start the car and just let it run...

All sorts of bubbles will come out and just let it run until they stop, then I'd just let it sit and cool down and run it again...

If that don't work your head gaskets are boned...
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't mean to be edgy. ;)

Yea, I've done this. "all kinds of bubbles" = nope.

edit: To note though. I always kept the radiator at "cold fill line" Not full to the top.
 
Just a stupid thought ... did you put the new T-stat in the correct way? If you have a manual that you are following the image in the manual is up side down from the way that you are looking at it.
 
I got the entire crossover replaced. Yea, the thermostat is in the correct way.

Ohhh... forgot to mention I had a pressure check done on the cooling system and it checked out fine.
 
screw it... as long as I'm throwing money at the problem I'm going to get a water pump.
 
Question: I flashed the ECU to a 98 mark when i bought the car. Could that have caused this issue?
 
I'll just post it here again that No; flashing the comp to a 98 won't do anything to make it overheat...
 
Myco said:
Question: I flashed the ECU to a 98 mark when i bought the car. Could that have caused this issue?
Click to expand...

Not considering you had this problem before you flashed the ecu.
You'd said it did this since you first got it.

IF you have a doubt, return the stock tune to the car..if your not confident in doing this, get with me and I'll help you sort that part out.. easy.
 
I got an 18mm nut welded to the crossover cap. My car is still getting hot, but since replacing the fan it just gets to the 'o' and comes back down a little. I'll try burping and re-post.

I'm wondering why you're overheating on the highway, that worries me. I would never overheat on the highway with the bad fan, only in traffic.
 
The Rev said:
I'm wondering why you're overheating on the highway, that worries me. I would never overheat on the highway with the bad fan, only in traffic.
Click to expand...

I agree, "all signs point to bad stuff".
 
Yeah XLR, idk. I finally understand the burping procedure. Everytime I opened the cap there was liquid right there and I didn't want it to leak, so I left it. Now I just ran it for a few minutes with the cap off, it was leaking a little, but every 20 seconds or so a bubble would come up. I agree with KK though, jack the car up and get a funnel that'll screw in (will search to find XLR's he posted not too long ago, I could use it now :D ) and fill the funnel so that way when the bubbles escape, it sucks in more coolant.
 
Myco, pull your plugs look for any sign of anti-freeze.
If you have a bad head gasket you will see/smell anti-freeze on the plug.
 
'nut, he isn't loosing any coolant.

what you describe would indicate a failed headgasket, but his scenario could be a cracked head, or a very minor leak in he headgasket that is only comprimised by the high pressure of combustion 160-180PSI

the cooling system is 15ish PSI?

So the leak may be combustion gases going FROM the cylinder into the cooling system due to the 160-180PSI combustion pressures.

could be the 15ish PSI from the cooling system isn't pushing coolant back into the cylinder because the leak isn't "that bad".

My SVO mustang did this when I ran 27+PSI boost, it cracked the head.. but wasn't loosing or swapping any fluids.
Only combustion gases from the combustion stroke were entering the cooling system.

The problem was found by using a dye test that confirmed combustion gases in the cooling system, pulled the head and had it checked and it was indeed cracked.
 
I know what your sayin Tommy.
Myco said he had the coolent system pressure tested too.

If he had a leak somewere it should have been found during the pressure test.
That includes a head gasket.

But I am old school....I would still pull the plugs and have a look see.
 
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