Couple pics of my rear blowthrough project

wow phreak..Thats pretty intense. Your deck hole is abit bigger then mine..I though i could fit 3 of mine back there so i cut accordingly..Ended up being to big for my 2 but o well..
Now are you placing the speaker panel over the amps? If not i'd tint asap. I see you cut the x braces.. Are you forward fireing your sub?..Nice location for you carcomp.(cd page)
 
When I had the three 10's in the 94, I never had to do any blow through. I only removed the insulation from the two upper holes and insulation from two of the holes at the cross bars and it was making my moon roof jump up and down from the pressure. I also had mirror troubles until I finally got the kind of glue that has to be mixed and then applied. I glued the button to the glass for the night and then hung the mirror the next day and it never came down again until the fire.

This same system (what's in the trunk) is about to go in the 95 within the next 2 weeks. All I need is speaker wire and everything else is in the garage waiting. Luckily everything in the trunk survived the fire. Didn't even get smoked up back there.

NewWiring016.jpg

i've never seen this kind of rvm glue..What is it exactly?

And for anyone else having rvm prob. If you buy the permatex kit w/ the little towlet and the adhesive keep the remnents..I put my rvm back on and figured i'd try to keep the packets dry so i could use them again if it falls off. Well all i did was seal the packets back up with tape..I opened it up today (1 month later) and they were both still useable..I'd say you could get 3 uses out of the kit if you seal them back up well..I used to just buy a $3 kit everytime mine fell off. Eh, just a heads up.
 
i've never seen this kind of rvm glue..What is it exactly?

And for anyone else having rvm prob. If you buy the permatex kit w/ the little towlet and the adhesive keep the remnents..I put my rvm back on and figured i'd try to keep the packets dry so i could use them again if it falls off. Well all i did was seal the packets back up with tape..I opened it up today (1 month later) and they were both still useable..I'd say you could get 3 uses out of the kit if you seal them back up well..I used to just buy a $3 kit everytime mine fell off. Eh, just a heads up.

I had a GP with a huge system that took out the mirror all the time. I glued it each time, until one day it took a chuck of the glass with it when it fell off.
My Mark lost its mirror about 3 years ago and I'm never putting it back on.
 
I had a GP with a huge system that took out the mirror all the time. I glued it each time, until one day it took a chuck of the glass with it when it fell off.
My Mark lost its mirror about 3 years ago and I'm never putting it back on.

I've heard of this happening..Scares me abit..I dont have it in me to cut@tuck the compass wires and not being able to use my rearview.
 
I'll see if I can find it for you. I know it's at O'Reilly's and it comes in a box with a popsicle stick and two packets of some type of glue inside. It had one alcohol cleaning pad and a piece of sandpaper all in the box. On the front of the box, it says "what the professionals use" but I can't remember the name of it but I'll see if I can find it because I never had the mirror fall off again until the fire and the windshield busted. The 95 has a different mirror than the 94 did. This one has the compass built onto it where the 94 didn't. It could pop off at any time because it is shaking pretty good but hopefully it hangs on there with no problem. I might have the box in the garage. Have to go check.
 
I'm pretty sure this is it. I just got some a couple of weeks ago for the Sanoma before I sold it but the guy came and bought it on the same day I was going to hang the mirror. I put the kit in the glove box and let him take it with him. He was in a rush so I let him have it like it was.

When I look it up online, it says "no mixing" but I'm almost positive that I had to mix it when I used it on the 94. I still wanna say it says "what the professionals use" on the front. Either way, I'm sure this is the stuff and it works. I scraped first, used sand paper on the metal button, cleaned the button off with alcohol wipe that comes with it and cleaned the spot on the glass, let dry good, mixed the glue with the sticks that come in the pack and applied to the button. I stuck the button in place and then put gorilla tape over the button and let it set over night to make sure it had a good bond. Never had one problem after that.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/VCH0/00534.oap?keyword=mirror+glue

Notice the big picture it says it has mixing sticks on the bottom of the package but in the link, it says "no mixing"? Anyway, it has to be mixed, I do remember that and I know that's the stuff. It works but let the button set in place all night with tape holding it tight to the glass.
00534.jpg
 
this was my old 98 lsc, 2 kicker dvc 10 inch subs with a fosgate punch amp i built the box so i could still take the spare tire cover out. had a kenwood double din deck too.
stereolivesagain006.jpg

kenwoodstereo007-1.jpg
 
this is whats in my 97 now, i think i am going to build a new box though and do a single 12 inch dvc. this is everything i put in my 97.
subbox004.jpg

markandjoann045.jpg

kamdensbirthday082.jpg

kamdensbirthday108.jpg



made a false floor too to cover the spare tire cover.


falsefloor006.jpg
 
Her's what I did to my son's 97. IMHO, I don't like rattling the licence plate. one 12" sub is plenty. I've always had success when I built systems with either a 5 channel amp or two amps. A 4-channel and a 1-channel.
103_3050.jpg

103_3051.jpg

103_3052.jpg
 
wow phreak..Thats pretty intense. Your deck hole is abit bigger then mine..I though i could fit 3 of mine back there so i cut accordingly..Ended up being to big for my 2 but o well..
Now are you placing the speaker panel over the amps? If not i'd tint asap. I see you cut the x braces.. Are you forward fireing your sub?..Nice location for you carcomp.(cd page)

I did that install years ago. I have a forward firing 12" Orion HCCA sub. The speaker grills a dummies. I made the cover to look like there were speakers under there and that it maybe looks like it was OEM if you look through the back window. Since I took the rear speakers out and put the autoPC and the system processor in their place I put the rear speakers in the roof behind the moonroof.

Dcp_0935.jpg

Dcp_0934.jpg
 
i have a hard time believing it works like it should with that gash in the cone but i could be a moron too!! if it sounds good i cant imagine what it would sound like without the gash!!
 
i have a hard time believing it works like it should with that gash in the cone but i could be a moron too!! if it sounds good i cant imagine what it would sound like without the gash!!

If it was ghetto fixed it would be fine..Superglue Epoxy of some sort...I've ran subs that the surround or cone were fu cked up.. And as long as its solid it'll be fine..Hell i got 3 2007 12" type r's with misc little imperfections for 100 shipped. Used alittle sg and painted the cones black and there great.. I could care less what they look like as long as they still sound as they should. And 100 bucks for 3 12" r's i'm not gunna pass up.

But yea gman..do something with it.
 
i have a hard time believing it works like it should with that gash in the cone but i could be a moron too!! if it sounds good i cant imagine what it would sound like without the gash!!

One of my first JL 12W7's (used to have 2 of them in my first Mark VIII, but they were stolen) got a hole knocked in the cone of it by a spotlight that was rolling around in my trunk. On some subs, the "cone" that you see is actually just a dust cover, as is the case with the W7's and I imagine must also be the case with Gman's sub. Anyway, it still sounded awesome and I couldn't tell a difference in sound, so I could have left it. Instead, I chose to send it off to get "re-coned" by JL Audio. They actually replace the entire driver assembly to the voice coils. It ended up costing me almost $300, but it was much cheaper than the alternative of $750 for a brand new one (or $550, my price :D).
 
I'm not a professional or anything but have been installing since I was 16 years old and have learned a lot over the years.

Same here, except I was 12 when I started installing for older friends. I'm 22 now, I have always loved the hobby, and I learned it from my neighbor at the time when I was a kid, he was an old school guy, and this was back when tape decks were still viable. lol

I just put a double din in mine this week, speakers next, then I need an amp and a new box for my 2 eclipse 12's.

Sorry for the hijack
 
i wish i could find the cd's of old pics i saved of my old bagged silverado system. i bought a brand new suzuki king quad 4x4 in 2000 and sold it in 2001 and took allllllllllllllllllllllll the money and went right to the stereo shop and slapped it on the counter and said build me a system. dumbest :q:q:q:qing think i ever did but dammit that system was so sick. i had 2 huge kenwood amps, 3 ten inch mtx thunder 8000 subs, kenwood components in the front doors and in the rear of the cab, and a kenwood eXcelon deck all this was jammed in a standard cab 95 silverado with a bench seat and it was the best back message i ever had lol!! that truck is the reason why my hearing is damaged now, i didnt care then, but i do now. oh well we only fall apart as we get older so screw it! who needs to hear anyway.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top