changing instrument cluster and dash lights.... custom colors.
- Thread starter xtantaudio
- Start date
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http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?76318
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?76318
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
That method gives pretty poor light distribution in the gauge display. Something to note is that only red LEDs will illuminate the needles
Still it is an excellent video. One we didn't have in the forums. You can either sand it, use acetone, use tints, but with that video a lot of us will get the guidance to open the thing up and actually do it.
Now, in that video looks like he has great illumination, I didn't really pay attention to the needles. Do you know a better method? I think tints would decelerate over time, sanding is dangerous. Maybe a bit of sanding and a bit of acetone would do??
Now, in that video looks like he has great illumination, I didn't really pay attention to the needles. Do you know a better method? I think tints would decelerate over time, sanding is dangerous. Maybe a bit of sanding and a bit of acetone would do??
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I've seen the video posted here a few times. Probably in the LED conversion thread... Regardless, yes, the video does give a lot of information. I actually used it to do my dash because I got hung up on a few things.
Acetone worked perfectly fine for me. The green tint is a film sparsely applied to the back. As far as I can tell, the actual gauge markings are a separate layer on the other (outer) side. As long as you stop applying the acetone when there's no green left, I don't see it being really possible to destroy the plastic. I do believe I have some thin spots, but there's absolutely nothing visible in the front
That video uses a [1x] 5050 SMD LED bulb for a 194/168 socket (5050 SMD is the LED size and style). The description states he later used a different type, but the link is dead. adrst (the LED conversion guy) used [5x] 5050SMD LED "towers" for 168 sockets. One faces upwards, the other 4 face outwards on a square tower. This is also how I did it, but I'm not pleased. I've already decided on just making a large array of superflux LEDs and solid core wire (a wireframe, so to speak), but for everyone else, simply masking the top LED of the 5x5050 tower may be enough. I can't promise anything, though.
Then again, many people will be happy whatever it looks like simply because they're blue LEDs, and blue LEDs sell everything.
Tint vs LEDs vs Paint vs bulb cover vs overlays. Each has their own advantage.
You can get LED 168s in any color you want, as long as you want red, yellow, green, blue, pink, purple, or white. Unfortunately, orange turned out to be so difficult to find (because every yellow bulb was listed as yellow/amber/orange), that I went and bought reds and swapped the LEDs myself with a heat gun. If you can solder, LEDs definitely have my vote. Plus, I feel they have a richer color
However, if you can't solder, vinyl tint is probably the easiest thing to do. I would apply it to the back of the clear piece. Maybe glue the edges for added reassurance it won't peel in the heat.
I'd imagine paint would be very hard to apply thick enough to get the color, thin enough to let enough light pass, and even enough to look professional. Maybe use a spray gun and mix the desired paint color with clearcoat?
You can change the entire look of the dash with an overlay/replacement gauge face. You can get a few different full overlays on eBay for $50, or get white-face overlays for $20. They're a little too flashy for me (take a look, notice how many blue elements are forced into the design because just like blue LEDs, blue lines also sell). White faces are a little too obnoxious for me. This isn't a Mustang.
Do they still make colored bulb caps?
------------------------------
I also gave up on trying to make [size] 3528 LEDs soldered to wires to replace switch bulbs and use the existing optics. I've been having a blast with a Dremel and copper-clad board to make "printed" circuit boards. Headlight switch for example:
(bare board)
I've also started using adjustable voltage regulators and "remote" trimpots (trimpot with a long wire) to match LED intensity between different parts after assembly because nothing is ever good enough for me when it's my own work.
Acetone worked perfectly fine for me. The green tint is a film sparsely applied to the back. As far as I can tell, the actual gauge markings are a separate layer on the other (outer) side. As long as you stop applying the acetone when there's no green left, I don't see it being really possible to destroy the plastic. I do believe I have some thin spots, but there's absolutely nothing visible in the front
That video uses a [1x] 5050 SMD LED bulb for a 194/168 socket (5050 SMD is the LED size and style). The description states he later used a different type, but the link is dead. adrst (the LED conversion guy) used [5x] 5050SMD LED "towers" for 168 sockets. One faces upwards, the other 4 face outwards on a square tower. This is also how I did it, but I'm not pleased. I've already decided on just making a large array of superflux LEDs and solid core wire (a wireframe, so to speak), but for everyone else, simply masking the top LED of the 5x5050 tower may be enough. I can't promise anything, though.
Then again, many people will be happy whatever it looks like simply because they're blue LEDs, and blue LEDs sell everything.
Tint vs LEDs vs Paint vs bulb cover vs overlays. Each has their own advantage.
You can get LED 168s in any color you want, as long as you want red, yellow, green, blue, pink, purple, or white. Unfortunately, orange turned out to be so difficult to find (because every yellow bulb was listed as yellow/amber/orange), that I went and bought reds and swapped the LEDs myself with a heat gun. If you can solder, LEDs definitely have my vote. Plus, I feel they have a richer color
However, if you can't solder, vinyl tint is probably the easiest thing to do. I would apply it to the back of the clear piece. Maybe glue the edges for added reassurance it won't peel in the heat.
I'd imagine paint would be very hard to apply thick enough to get the color, thin enough to let enough light pass, and even enough to look professional. Maybe use a spray gun and mix the desired paint color with clearcoat?
You can change the entire look of the dash with an overlay/replacement gauge face. You can get a few different full overlays on eBay for $50, or get white-face overlays for $20. They're a little too flashy for me (take a look, notice how many blue elements are forced into the design because just like blue LEDs, blue lines also sell). White faces are a little too obnoxious for me. This isn't a Mustang.
Do they still make colored bulb caps?
------------------------------
I also gave up on trying to make [size] 3528 LEDs soldered to wires to replace switch bulbs and use the existing optics. I've been having a blast with a Dremel and copper-clad board to make "printed" circuit boards. Headlight switch for example:
(bare board)
I've also started using adjustable voltage regulators and "remote" trimpots (trimpot with a long wire) to match LED intensity between different parts after assembly because nothing is ever good enough for me when it's my own work.
You mean there is green on the back and front of the gauge face or whatever its called?
That would be awesome, but I don't have the equipment to do that and leave alone the time. Im in very tight schedule. If I can get the green off and use good quality LEDs Ill be ok with it.
Blue LEDs are overused WAY too much. Im sticking to white.
I didn't quite got what you said here. You meant you took an LED bulb and changed the actual LED from it?
I can solder btw.
I don't like those at all, the only thing Ill switch for is 2nd Gen faces. I read a thread on how to do it, but that was years go and I can't find it now. I remember you had to either swap needles or use 1st gen ones.
Circuit board is too much for me. I thought the lights in the door switches and so could be swapped for LED bulbs like the rest, can't they?
What do you mean by "match LED intensity.." I didn't get it sorry.
I'am swapping a full interior into my LS, its definitely a do it now or it'll never happen situation. Im also a perfectionist but, not too much on this type of work. Im most inclined toward me performance side, you know, LSD, short throw shifters, an engine swap hopefully one day. My car is a keeper so I'll have time.
What I need right now is a portable garage for my backyard, you a room for the LS you could say.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes
Just a soldering iron and a Dremel
I bought a Plug-and-Play assembly with 5 LEDs on it for a 168 bulb socket. I removed the individual red LEDs and replaced them with orange
Bought this
And replaced these
For SMD work, you'll want a heat gun (and practice) more than a soldering iron. A reflow bench setup would be best, but that's a whole different level. You can build one around a heat gun, but for something like this, the gun alone would be fine (but make spares)
I don't see why you'd have to swap needles, but I haven't had both gens open at the same time. I bought a used Gen2 gauge cluster for like $50 on ebay. I'm using that to design the LED array to minimize downtime with the car
You can't get PnP bulbs, but you can build replacement bulbs with solid core wire. I had problems with light distribution (LEDs direct light differently) and I had a lot of flickering (it's hard to solder wires to SMD LEDs). You can either cram 5mm/3mm LEDs (with leg leads) in there or tell yourself a SMD PCB is ultra cool. It would take 3 LEDs on the bulb stand to properly illuminate the headlight switch. One facing up at the Auto, one facing down towards the fog light symbol, and one facing to the right for off/parking/head. There's not a lot of room, so I figured it be easier to just put them inside the assembly on their own. The LED conversion guy made an array of 5mm LEDs soldered to each other. I don't know if you actually disassemble the switch without breaking it though. There's no visible release. But you get the idea
Brightness. I initially picked resistors to run all the LEDs at 20mA, but depending on LED type, position, optics in the switch, and the style of lens through the buttons, they'll all be different brightnesses. That bothers me.
Don't we all
Ron Sircar
Active LVC Member
I wouldn't mind having these changes done, but I'd rather pay someone to modify it for me if anyone is interested?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Reina239
LVC Member
So im in the middle of doing my cluster. My only problem i have had is the needles!!! Only the temp and gas needles. Rpm and mph are perfect. But they work normal most of the time and start shaking once in a while when im driving. I even pushed them in as far as i could get them to go. Anyone else have this problem?
Conchita
New LVC Member
I like this one
LunaEros
Well-Known LVC Member
Did the interior illumination color change kit ever come to fruition?