Car Died on the highway. Won't stay running, maybe my tc locked up as well?

The Rev

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This may get long, I did a few searches and I am fairly confident I know that my fuel pump may have died, my iac is shot and needs to be replaced, and I need to do a mercon V switch, like now haha.
This is for my 93.
On the way to school today I was idling really rough and stalling at every red light (something I attributed to the IAC being bad after 120k?) unless I held it in neutral with the gas being pressed, or in park by itself ( it seems to stay warming up in park with no problems, just stalls in neutral or drive, weird) but whatever, I had an exam and I hopped on the highway figuring that by giving it constant gas I'll be fine....I wasn't.

I was trying to pass someone and I was going 55, when I gave it gas its almost like nothing happened, I floored it and it was barely accelerating. At this time I noticed a very slight shudder (probably my tc based on searches) similar to the shudder I'll get every once in a while on the highway at this speed. I was more concerned with the loss of power, so I pull over and it immediately stalls when I let off the gas. I didn't have time to waste so I had my little sister pick me up, now for the parts. I'll check fuel pressure and see if I can drive it home tonight after class, I'll have my mother following me. If it doesn't work out I'll have AAA tow it home. My fuel pressure was on the low side (32psi) a few months ago, but my tester from harbor freight also leaked a little, so that may be skewed. At the very least I'm prepared to buy a new fuel pump (it may have to be an advance auto parts unit) locally, and have a local mechanic do the pump (and 02 sensors while he's at it) locally.

But I've also read it could be related to the IAC and EGR valve. I didn't find much information as to testing the IAC besides unpluggging the brake booster line, which I'll do. What about the EGR? What are symptoms of one that doesn't work, how hard is it to replace, etc.

I was looking for a walkthrough on replacing the IAC/EGR, I wouldn't notice the egr by looking at it, and the iac is to the left of the throttle body down low, if anyone has any walkthroughs on this or tech articles, link me please.

Summary,

I should expect to have to replace the;
fuel pump
02s (if I have to replace fuel pump, have someone else do it at the same time)
iac
egr

what are the best options for picking these products up locally? advance? any particular brands to steer clear of, etc. I'm at school now and my mom is gonna go have it towed while I'm here so I'll be home around 10 to check things out a little further.
 
It could be simple, I experianced similar troubles and come to find out it was my interia switch. From slamming down on the pavement it moved the interia switch just enough to cause me one hell of a headache and I hit the car and noticed the reb button popped reset it and viola problem gone.

Now I have bypassed the damn switch.
 
Update: Tested fuel pressure in the driveway tonight, 35psi idling and 37-38 under load.

Here's the weird part. It'll idle like crap, but stay running in park. As soon as you shift it the rpms go sporadic and it'll eventually stall. Also when in any gear but park there is a HEAVY smell of exhaust/gas in the front of the car, with some smoke too. There is also a real strong vacuum noise coming from the maf, so I cleaned it, nada. I've done a lot of searching on this in the last hour.

Fuel pump was ruled out.

I've been getting a heavy exhaust/gas smell in the car with the heat on lately but I've ignored it, can by egr be stuck open/closed causing these problems?

Also my idle hasn't been too great before these problems, something I was attributing to the IAC.

Are there any things I can do to help rule these out? I haven't had the chance to pull the brake booster yet, is that a failsafe method for testing the iac? I have an exam tomorrow so I'm studying for now. Any help would be great. Checking advance I see i'd pay around 170-200 for the iac and egr valves, and replacing them would suck the big ones. Although I still haven't found any tech articles.
 
How about a plugged up catalytic converters? Is there plenty of exhaust flowing from the back of the car?
 
I talked to 93 blue in the chat last night for a while, he suggests based on my problems it could be a faulty tps causing the iac to not turn on, causing it to die at idle. I'm gonna (hopefully) take a look at everything tomorrow and see whats up. We're expecting 5-6" of rain as a result of those hurricanes up here in RI they say. I also am starting game 1 of our playoffs on the mound saturday, something idk if we'll get to do now.

Cats were also mentioned in the chat last night too, I'm hoping thats not a problem but who knows. just for fun i'll replace the plugs as well.
 
i think one of my cats is going because im getting that rotton egg smell sometimes. Hopefully its just the third useless cat thats the problem, so i can just hack that off and go from there.

but in relations to your post, i think bad cats produce a sulfer smell if there going bad - which mine are doing but I am not experiencing the problems that you have. It seems like you have some kinda clogging issue? Did you check your imrc's? check airfilter?

Also you say it idles fine in neutral and park - I would start there as your main issue is defintely related to that. Goose it a bit in neutral park and see how it responds -- any spuddering?
 
I talked to 93 blue in the chat last night for a while, he suggests based on my problems it could be a faulty tps causing the iac to not turn on, causing it to die at idle. I'm gonna (hopefully) take a look at everything tomorrow and see whats up. We're expecting 5-6" of rain as a result of those hurricanes up here in RI they say. I also am starting game 1 of our playoffs on the mound saturday, something idk if we'll get to do now.

Cats were also mentioned in the chat last night too, I'm hoping thats not a problem but who knows. just for fun i'll replace the plugs as well.

Yeah, but remember i mentioned TPS before you elaborated on the other symptoms. Your crappy fuel mileage, CE light on highway etc. point towards 02 / possible cat problems.

Get those codes pulled! Then, go from there.

Read that Ford shop manual of yours! The info it contains is invaluable.
 
we'll see. I'm still waiting on the guy to get back to me about pulling the codes

I took off the intake tube/maf and such. That tps is down there, how the hell do I get to it, through the radio? haha

Directions from shop manual.

1. Disconnect tps from wiring harness.
2. Scribe a reference mark across the edge of the tps and to the tb to ensure correct position during installation.
3. Remove two tps retaining screws.
4. Remove tps.

Real helpful, do I have to take out the tb to do this? Looking in the manual tb removal *looks* straight forward. Disconnect pcv vacuum hose, tps harness, remove 4 tb bolts, pull it straight up and out? Looks like I'll be replacing the tb -> intake manifold gasket, and I'll see if I can find a tb -> intake tube gasket if they're cheap enough.

Yeah Blue I'm apprehensive about taking it somewhere. No one really prioritizes my car because I usually know whats wrong, or have an idea. It'll take days to get it back if I take it anywhere, not to mention its not really driveable. They'd rather rape me on diagnostic, then markup the cost of parts, etc. Well at least thats how I'm treated.

There are a few guys on craigslist around here that'll come pull codes. I was aware of the 02s being in rough shape because of the highway cel, but I was saving to get those replaced when I get the exhaust done. I guess now I get to focus more on getting her back up to snuff.
 
nope our gen1 cars dont have obd2 so they wont do it.
 
Bump. Replaced the tps and all sparkplugs today. No luck with either. The exhaust seems louder than normal, maybe because I haven't heard it. Also there's smoke coming up from behind the throttle body while its running. I think I have a cat problem now. I'm gonna jack it up sometime when its not wet and see if I can make sure, ratting, etc.

Looks like this may rush my plans for an exhaust. If I need to replace the cats, don't most people use some sort of a high flow cat? I'm gonna be looking around now but if someone has any other insight chime in.
 
Bump. Replaced the tps and all sparkplugs today. No luck with either. The exhaust seems louder than normal, maybe because I haven't heard it. Also there's smoke coming up from behind the throttle body while its running.

EGR pipe cracked?

Other part of exhaust cracked?

Rev, pull them codes. Do it manually without a code reader and count the flashes. (the EEC test connectors are on the driver's strut tower plastic cover) - mind, you'd already know that from connecting your reader. But, yeah, do it! It's easy!
 
Yeah 93, I'm working on the codes. I cant find my self test connector. I only have the 6 pin connector. It was said that it could fall off and melt on the cat. I'll look again.

Also I still haven't gotten under there and seen how bad the cats are, hit them, or done anything. I do have a link to a youtube video I took though, it sounds horrible. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GW-sUkkKwg . In my moms old oldsmobile 98, the cat developed a leak where it ran into a pipe, causing exactly what I'm having, loss of power, horrible noise, etc.

If I buy some cats from scp, what size should I look for? I'm gonna go 2.5" all the way through for my exhaust anyway, and I'm gonna replace the 02s. Should I just buy the cats and let em replace those too, or is the labor gonna be outta control? I know one of the cats is bolted/welded to the exhaust manifold so it makes it tougher. Also, I've read through about 14 pages of search results and I read about Turborich's, among others egr tubes breaking. Would this cause the horrible noise/heavy smell of exhaust/loss of power as well?
 
Oh, and if I didn't say the sound sounds REAL loud from the passengers cat. My 3rd cat always 'gurgled' but this seems to be from the passengers cat, we'll see whenever it stops pouring and I can get out there and jack this baby up.

The good news is I can borrow all the money needed from my gf and just replace everything, 02s, cats, and all piping for my exhaust.
 
hahahahahaa I'm a retard. The self test connector is there, hooked up the scanner, but theres no codes. Because I left the battery disco'd for 2 days! D'oh! I'm running the engine now, trying to get the codes to come back.
 
Ok. Well I wanted to get the car warm before I pull the codes. Rev it up a little to get it to throw that check engine light I'm sure is for my 02s. Well, I noticed it was on the warmer side, closer to R than usual. Oh well, so I'm reading the book on my code scanner, and I notice it gets up to the N/O...WHOA time to shut it off. Its overflowing the overflow tank, so I overheated a little, no harm no foul I guess. Still no check engine light so I hook up the scanner anyway, here are the 4 codes I get


582 - Fan circuit open

336 - EGR sensor circuit voltage higher than expected.

337 - EGR sensor circuit above maximum voltage.

The 582 code was detected in the key on engine off test, 336 and 337 was detected from 'continuous memory'.

This test was after I had overheated, because I was a retard and didn't pay attention.

I assume my fan didn't turn on, making me overheat?

And whats up with those egr codes, am I due for one of those, and a tube for it as well?

I hit my passengers side cat with a hammer and it seemed to idle a little better, the rpms didn't surge as much, maybe that's because the engine was warm.
 
I didnt read all your postings but did you test the egr valve with a vaccum pump?
 
Rev not absolutely sure but if you have a cat problem seems it would screw with the EGR and the O2's
 
funny mine died yesterday on I-77 S...and mine wont run...i broke a cam...thankfully it was on my Dodge Daytona and not my Mark 8...i would have cried if it was the Mark 8...so if anyone happens to have a 2.2 T2 head just lying around for a chrysler they dont want il gladly take it off ur hands...lol

Steve
 

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