95MkViii
Dedicated LVC Member
ok guys, im looking changing the valve covers on my car. im thinking of going to a COP conversion.... but what the hell is it?
thanks.
thanks.
C.O.P. Conversion Started
- Thread starter 94m5
- Start date
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
So basically, while it's COP, the coils are being fired in "Wasted Spark". EI, no sequential firing.
How long are these coils? I've been looking for some COP/CNP coils for another project..
How long are these coils? I've been looking for some COP/CNP coils for another project..
todd2fst4u
Well-Known LVC Member
Changing the valve covers to accept Coil On Plugs and eliminate the need for distribution packs and spark plug wires.
95MkViii
Dedicated LVC Member
oh! ok now i get it!
so how had is it to do?
so how had is it to do?
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
I PM'd mike the other day, but he must not have had a chance to read my message yet. I had the great idea to wire the coils in parallel, opposed to his way which is 2 on each circuit in series. But after thinking about it, my way will probably cause too much amp draw on the EDIS module and burn it up. So, it's back to the way Mike did it...
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Sorry dan,
Been working ALOT.
I think your right about the Wiring. This way has worked for me personally for over 2 years. I believe either Jeremi or unity were the pioneers in this swap.
95MkViii....
Did you READ this thread? How can you possibly have a question like that?
Been working ALOT.
I think your right about the Wiring. This way has worked for me personally for over 2 years. I believe either Jeremi or unity were the pioneers in this swap.
95MkViii....
Did you READ this thread? How can you possibly have a question like that?
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
The system is waste spark in its stock form as well. The coils are basically wired internally just like our pictures show the COPs are wired externally.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
I know Gen 1's are waste spark, it's EDIS 8. Are Gen 2's sequential?
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Yes.
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
I wanted to contribute to this thread, as this is where I got all my info on this swap from... I have all of my electronics certifications from Ford and consider myself above average when it comes to electrical knowledge... That said, this was pretty straight forward in what I was trying to accomplish and how the circuit works, however there are A LOT of wires in this harness and it gets a little complicated as you open the harness up more and more. There isn't much needed to do this job, mainly COP valve covers, 8 COPs, and a pair of COP harnesses.
Normally you would install your valve covers first so you can get your fitment right, and keep any wire shavings/solder/dirt into the engine, but my gaskets were a day late, and I wanted to get a head start.
The Valve cover R/R is a different write up, but a few things you may want to know. In my case, I needed to jack up each side of the engine to remove that side's valve cover. The motor mount bolts are 13mm. Driver side is accessed from the backside of the cradle, by the cat and the passenger side is accessed right under/behind the a/c compressor. I recommend taping your valve covers up with masking tape when you install them to avoid scratching them.
This is what you are going to be working with when you start cutting on your harness... The coils have been removed by this point, you can see how much room has opened up already.
Started cutting open the harness. All you are extracting from the harness is the 4 wires going to the coil. The coil plug has 3 wires in it, and an extra wire in the harness for the noise suppressor. Its basically 2 rd/lg wires and 2 signal wires for each side. You need to open the whole harness up all the way back to the main junction right about where where the EGR and IMRC solenoids are.
In this picture, I loomed up some of the other wires that I did not need to keep them out of sight. The 4 wires laying across the intake manifold are your 4 trigger wires. They are all tan with a different colored stripe.
The rd/lg wire starts out as 1 wire from the PCM, and splices into 4 so it can go 2 to each side. You cut the harness back far enough to get rid of that splice, you only need one power wire for this set up. In this picture it is the short red wire laying on top of the fuel rail.
Normally you would install your valve covers first so you can get your fitment right, and keep any wire shavings/solder/dirt into the engine, but my gaskets were a day late, and I wanted to get a head start.
The Valve cover R/R is a different write up, but a few things you may want to know. In my case, I needed to jack up each side of the engine to remove that side's valve cover. The motor mount bolts are 13mm. Driver side is accessed from the backside of the cradle, by the cat and the passenger side is accessed right under/behind the a/c compressor. I recommend taping your valve covers up with masking tape when you install them to avoid scratching them.
This is what you are going to be working with when you start cutting on your harness... The coils have been removed by this point, you can see how much room has opened up already.
Started cutting open the harness. All you are extracting from the harness is the 4 wires going to the coil. The coil plug has 3 wires in it, and an extra wire in the harness for the noise suppressor. Its basically 2 rd/lg wires and 2 signal wires for each side. You need to open the whole harness up all the way back to the main junction right about where where the EGR and IMRC solenoids are.
In this picture, I loomed up some of the other wires that I did not need to keep them out of sight. The 4 wires laying across the intake manifold are your 4 trigger wires. They are all tan with a different colored stripe.
The rd/lg wire starts out as 1 wire from the PCM, and splices into 4 so it can go 2 to each side. You cut the harness back far enough to get rid of that splice, you only need one power wire for this set up. In this picture it is the short red wire laying on top of the fuel rail.
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
This is the diagram I made that shows how this circuit is going to get wired up.
T/LG Wire : 4 & 7
T/LB Wire : 2 & 8
T/W Wire : 1 & 6
T/O Wire : 3 & 5
One side will only have 4 wires spliced into the rd/lg wire.
Began wiring the new harness I made into the car's harness...
After this is all wired up, I recommend starting the car to make sure it runs right before you start the time consuming task of looming everything up. The rest of these pictures are just various stages of looming.
This part of the harness was the hardest part to loom and tape up... My splices were very hard and not flexible with the heat shrink on them and couldnt get them to flex the way I really wanted. Eventually I was able to get everything tight and covered up. It took me maybe 3 days 2-3 hours each day to finally decide I was happy with how it looked.
Here is everything all hooked up. One think that I did not picture was the PCV valve hose needed to be rerouted, just cutting out a 5 inch section and reconnecting it with fuel line put it back in place. It is at the very rear corner of the LH valve cover. Here it is all buttoned up. Don't forget to put your motor mount bolts back in.
I fired it up tonight and took it for a ride, it seems very smooth. I also chose to install new NGK platinum plugs while I had it all apart. I didn't notice a power difference, the engine just feels smoother all around, like Mike said above. I'm not sure that I expect many people to do this swap, but I am trying to clean things up, and the engine compartment that I have been wanting to spend some time. There is no performance gains known for this mod, it is pretty much just cosmetic and unique. Hope this information helps anyone interested in this swap!
This btw, are the parts that come off the car. You will need a g2 power steering reservoir bracket.
T/LG Wire : 4 & 7
T/LB Wire : 2 & 8
T/W Wire : 1 & 6
T/O Wire : 3 & 5
One side will only have 4 wires spliced into the rd/lg wire.
Began wiring the new harness I made into the car's harness...
After this is all wired up, I recommend starting the car to make sure it runs right before you start the time consuming task of looming everything up. The rest of these pictures are just various stages of looming.
This part of the harness was the hardest part to loom and tape up... My splices were very hard and not flexible with the heat shrink on them and couldnt get them to flex the way I really wanted. Eventually I was able to get everything tight and covered up. It took me maybe 3 days 2-3 hours each day to finally decide I was happy with how it looked.
Here is everything all hooked up. One think that I did not picture was the PCV valve hose needed to be rerouted, just cutting out a 5 inch section and reconnecting it with fuel line put it back in place. It is at the very rear corner of the LH valve cover. Here it is all buttoned up. Don't forget to put your motor mount bolts back in.
I fired it up tonight and took it for a ride, it seems very smooth. I also chose to install new NGK platinum plugs while I had it all apart. I didn't notice a power difference, the engine just feels smoother all around, like Mike said above. I'm not sure that I expect many people to do this swap, but I am trying to clean things up, and the engine compartment that I have been wanting to spend some time. There is no performance gains known for this mod, it is pretty much just cosmetic and unique. Hope this information helps anyone interested in this swap!
This btw, are the parts that come off the car. You will need a g2 power steering reservoir bracket.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Why wouldn't a 97 harness work?
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
thanks to both you guys for this. it is going to help, tons
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Because the 97 engine harness won't mate to a gen 1 vehicle harness. The pin outs are completely different.
95MkViii
Dedicated LVC Member
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...onversion-harness-will-available-shortly.html
just wanted to post this.
just wanted to post this.