Bob's LS Story
- Thread starter bobsquatch
- Start date
I would stick with Jag or LS wheels. The LS has a hub-centric wheel mounting and a bore size other than factory (63.4, IIRC) will require centering rings. I've had nothing but trouble with centering rings, ESPECIALLY from the knuckleheads at Discount Tire. They insisted the wheels were bent when, in fact, it was the wrong-size centering rings they installed. The rings add another avenue to induce vibration; to which the LS is already quite sensitive.
Just my advise...
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks guys. I am kind of stuck here. I already have crap aftermarket primax wheels on here so I have to make a change. If I want them today I am stuck with the MB wheels at discount. I read of LS4me's woes in his thread on the subject. I wonder if I inform Discount tire of the correct 63.36mm hub-centric size I can start off on the right foot. I just want a stock size wheel that looks fairly stock and less pimp-daddy. I am also a little more inclined to use Discount for everything so there is no passing the blame if I have issues. I fully respect your opinion LS4me and I ask you if you had started with the correct hub-centric ring would you be less leary of the MB wheels. This is what I am looking at. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fi...=MBM014&yr=2005&pc=75923&wd=17&rw=&vid=008068.
Also, isn't the stock wheel 17X7-1/2 because these are 17X7 5 on 108.00. I am not sure how much effect a 1/2" narrower wheel will have on the stock size tire. Also Discount says these fit my LS but I can not find the backspacing specs. What is the stock backspacing? Does anyone have a lead on stock wheels in San Diego? I would love to have them.
Also, isn't the stock wheel 17X7-1/2 because these are 17X7 5 on 108.00. I am not sure how much effect a 1/2" narrower wheel will have on the stock size tire. Also Discount says these fit my LS but I can not find the backspacing specs. What is the stock backspacing? Does anyone have a lead on stock wheels in San Diego? I would love to have them.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
No suggestion on wheels, but I'm liking my Continentals on mine. The car sticks to everything, even ice.
On the plugs, if you don't find anything obvious when you check them swap the #1 COP and the spark plug to different cylinders. Then, if it acts up again you'll know what the problem is by where the CEL is. If it doesn't move it's definitely the wiring, if it does replace whatever part you moved there is.
On the plugs, if you don't find anything obvious when you check them swap the #1 COP and the spark plug to different cylinders. Then, if it acts up again you'll know what the problem is by where the CEL is. If it doesn't move it's definitely the wiring, if it does replace whatever part you moved there is.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks Telco, I had the miss on cylinder 1 before I swapped the cops and plugs out. Intermittently then too. It has been fine after this morning and the check engine light went out so hopefully a little driving ithe s all she needs. I have to order my rims so I am going to look around for a stock set at a junk yard and craigslist... Hopefully I can find a set today or tomorrow.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
In that case the wiring will need to be inspected. The plugs do go bad due to them being heat cycled plastic. You can also check the point at the back of the head where the wiring goes under the cover. It's possible that a hole has worn through the wiring at that point if someone in the past pulled the cover and didn't put it back on correctly, and you're getting a very intermittent ground.
That was my problem with these guys (I went to two different locations). They said they used the correct rings.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks everyone. So I did a little driving today, maybe 50 miles and so far so good. Check engine light stayed off and she is running fine. Shifts kind of harsh into 2&3 at medium light throttle. Shifts fine WOT and easy-easy throttle. Guessing it has to do wit the miss. After I address the wheel/tire issue I will have the transmission properly flushed and see what that gets me. Also I had the battery disconnected so it may be learning... I am off to the junk yard tomorrow for wheels, floor mats, ashtray, center console lid/latch, trim around shifter, jack, tire iron, possible Pcm, tcm and whatever else catches my eye.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Sorry I don't have time to search or spellcheck from my mobile phone but I need to know if all Lincoln LS wheels are interchangeable specifically would I be doing myself a deserve is twitching from 17 inch wheels back to 16 inch wheelS. I am perusing the junkyards and find lots of 16 and very few 17s and if the price is right what would the downside be and are all 16 inch wheels the same wit and offset 7 1/2 inches and 60 mm
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Somebody stop me I'm about to buy some LS 16 inch wheels with Firestone precision touring tires on in the 215 60 r16 somebody stop me I'm about to buy some LOS 16 inch wheels with Firestone precision touring tires on in the 215 60 R 16 size w/90% tread for $450. Tires will be a little skinnier but about the same diameter within .4% so somebody tell me no or I think I'm going to pull the trigger
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks Joe, done deal. Just balanced them and am about to put em on and take for a drive. They are a little skinnier but within .04% diameter. I will lose a bit of handling and gain a touch of economy. Theoretically. What are your opinions on this switch? I will report my impressions.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay,Bob.....is that really 4% of a percent difference,or one inch diameter diff? don-ohio^)
The diameter of the rim is 1" less, but the diameter for the tire (there is more side wall on the 16") is more or less the same.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
So I got my wheels cleaned up installed and torqued to 100 lb/ft. Took her for a little 5 mile freeway spin. So much better. I haven't done any real cornering with it (wife in car) it seems good. Retorqued wheels... Got more twist than I was expecting. I have a couple 100 mile trips tomorrow and Monday and will retorque after each until I quit gaining.
My cylinder 1 misfire returned today but I didn't let it trip the CEL. Every time I came to a stop I felt the shudder and turned it off and cycled the key. Didn't seem to help. Once I got it on the freeway for 2 easy miles still not right so I got back on the freeway for a hard rompin uphill throttle fest and that cured it. I am hoping it just needs to be driven hard fo a bit and it will get better. Who knows, tha car hasn't seen the open road in years.
My cylinder 1 misfire returned today but I didn't let it trip the CEL. Every time I came to a stop I felt the shudder and turned it off and cycled the key. Didn't seem to help. Once I got it on the freeway for 2 easy miles still not right so I got back on the freeway for a hard rompin uphill throttle fest and that cured it. I am hoping it just needs to be driven hard fo a bit and it will get better. Who knows, tha car hasn't seen the open road in years.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Okay,Bob.....is that really 4% of a percent difference,or one inch diameter diff? don-ohio
Actually a typo. I meant .4% or 40% of 1%. Here is what I referenced.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=235-50r17-215-60r16
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
well you probably should because...
because this sh!t makes little sense...
regardless,
if a wheel fits on one LS it will fit the same on all LS's
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Your a little late to the game there Loud. Will translate though as voice to text can be pretty sketchy on my phone.
"specifically would I be doing myself a deserve is twitching from 17 inch wheels back to 16 inch wheelS."
Was supposed to read...
specifically would I be doing myself a disservice in switching from 17 inch wheels back to 16 inch wheels?
"specifically would I be doing myself a deserve is twitching from 17 inch wheels back to 16 inch wheelS."
Was supposed to read...
specifically would I be doing myself a disservice in switching from 17 inch wheels back to 16 inch wheels?
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
That was what I read into it. At any rate, 0.4 percent is within the wear range (difference between a new tire and the same tire due for replacement), so it's not going to matter. Main advantage is more rubber and less metal means a softer ride, main disadvantage is more rubber and less metal means more tire flex, which affects handling. However, you'll see more on the ride comfort than you will on the handling, because the ride comfort you feel at all times but the handling difference will only be noticed when you're pushing it hard and then only at the edge. It'll start feeling like the wheel is rolling over the sidewall sooner.
Rodewaryer
Dedicated LVC Member
Wow a lot of work going into this car, although from what I can see no major (engine/trans) component issues. Just wondering if you are satisfied with it having done all this work or if it would have been worth just putting a little more on the table for a little better car?
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Well Rodewaryer, that is always the question. It seems to me like the difference between the expensive ones and the cheap ones is the expensive ones are clean. I was ready to pull the trigger on a 2004 ultimate with 98,000 miles for $4,025. Took it for a good test drive and found problems everywhere. Brought it back and he replaced coils, brakes, A/C... Now Wants $5,500 for it and I can smell coolant so you know plastic cooling parts are done and it has a small drive train whine... These cars are problematic but the problems are solvable. With that in mind I like to know everything that gets done to a car and has a warranty I own the warranty. All that goes out the window when the car is sold. I am also learning so much about this car and will be able to detect small problems and stop them early. So far I have just over $4,000 in this car including taxes, registration and changing all fluids and filters which I would have to pay on top of the expensive ones. I can assure you it is unlikely you will find one of these that doesn't have one or more of the standard issues before the first year is up. So far, excluding tax, registration and fluids/filters I only have about $3,200 in it including all repairs and new wheels and tires. I would say so far I am satisfied. Do I wish it had less issues? Of course. Am I out of the woods yet? Nope. Would I do it all over again? Probably as long as I have the time to address these issues. Sometimes like Don-Ohio I work seven days a week, twelve hours a day for more than a month at a time. Right now I am working less so it is OK. Lastly don't forget the great story this car comes with. When I bough her she had 3 flat tires and two broken windows... Kind of fun when you have a sweet ride with humble beginnings.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
So this morning had the cyl 1 miss again. Took 3-5 miles to clean up and it set off the CEL. Running great after that. Around 50 miles so far today with another 100 coming tonight. I have a very small shimmy in the steering wheel. I will recheck the balance tomorrow. Maybe rotate tires front to rear.
Rodewaryer
Dedicated LVC Member
Saying you'd do it again given the chance sums it up pretty good and it looks better than I expected it to given what you'd written/costs etc.
They are way under priced, that's a lot of car for under $5k. I would say no immediately to anything under $12k for mine, but as everyone can attest on their own cars, we have put a lot into them when we've owned them this many years.
They are way under priced, that's a lot of car for under $5k. I would say no immediately to anything under $12k for mine, but as everyone can attest on their own cars, we have put a lot into them when we've owned them this many years.