Big Mike's Audio Overhaul Progress Thread!

Idk I could send them via one of the higher quality lossless formats, I have rips in several formats I use for my computer sound system and I really can't tell they are rips. .wav files would be a lil large to send. My discs are copies from another installer I know.
 
I lurk there all the time! They have 1-6, which is pretty cool, I have the 7th Focal disc though.

Do you have a link to your build?
 
Telarc Cincinnati Pops... Star Tracks, Bond and Beyond and 1812.... Will disintegrate cheap systems.

Queensryche "Anybody Listening"

Love Floyd too....
 
Hi I don't post here to often but I am heavily into car audio and have been building my Mark VIII for a few years. Here is a link to a lot of great downloads for Apple lossless files and others including all the focal test cd.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...15-all-6-focal-demo-discs-ready-download.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/ is a great place to check out if you like car audio
Thats killer. Didnt know that was there and I am a member. :lol:


Unfortunatly I am sat interwebz so I have to wait till after 2am to try and download one cause I have a 400mb limit per day. :(
 
I'm having a good time learning a bunch of stuff on stevemeadedesigns.com. There are some pretty knowledgeable people there.
 
Unfortunatly I am sat interwebz so I have to wait till after 2am to try and download one cause I have a 400mb limit per day. :(

damn, thats rough, and here i though my dial up was horrible.

i hope they also throttle your bandwidth back so that you dont cap out within a few mins!
 
damn, thats rough, and here i though my dial up was horrible.

i hope they also throttle your bandwidth back so that you dont cap out within a few mins!
They let you go 20mb over your limit and then they bottle neck your system for 24 hours to where I cant even load LVC. $10 and they let you back up to speed.
All that and a chitty 1.6mbps speed for the bargain price of $90 a month.
Biggest crooked racket out there.
 
I'm having a good time learning a bunch of stuff on stevemeadedesigns.com. There are some pretty knowledgeable people there.

I lurk there too. Idk, after being a teen post whore on 30 forums, once I grew up I really kinda realized I could learn without talking. That is, until I had something worth saying.

Anyway, on to the progress...

As I had been banging my face against my palm over wanting to mount my mid/tweet behind factory grilles I finally gave up. 3D mounting sounds much more enveloping anyway and really helps tame the standard 3-way upper-mid aggressiveness. I decided to cut the grilles and mount the mid/tweets 3D onto them. The good news is they match the car really well...

3d_mid_tweet_improv_2-1.png

3d_mid_tweet_improv.png


Once again, I ask, does anyone have any thoughts on mounting my other set of mid/tweets off-axis in the kicks up front and the 2nd set of midbasses in the stock rear locations. I just see mids and tweets in the back as a waste.
 
I would mount the tweeters in the kick pannels and the mids/mid-bass in the stock rear locations. That way you would have a solid mid bass kick with a clean rear fill without degrading the sound stage. Also with the tweeters in the kick pannels it will help make the sound stage deeper and wider.
 
dont you guys think that the extra mids and tweets up front would be a little overpowering? and what about time alignment with the tweeters having so much difference in distance.

do they have the option to mount them coaxial style? you could put the second set over the bass driver if they did (dont know if they would fit behind the grille however)
 
Just run the front x-overs with the tweeter attenuation on full. Besides they appear to be soft domes so they should not be overly harsh.

As for time alignment, I used to push that back in the day when Pioneer and Alpine were hot and heavy into it. Notice 95% of the time alignment processors went away. Its because its simply not needed when you are under 10' from the drivers.
Concerts, movie theaters and large home theaters can make use but in a car the drivers are too close to make a 2' difference mean anything.
 
Bill, that song does have midbass presence doesn't it? On my computer setup it sounded great, I'm going to try it in the car for sure. That lead singer rivals Morphine for vocal reproduction quality difficulty. It's a shame Mark passed, I miss that band, and I was still a kid back then. This song (see video below), is a favorite for low-end tuning, the low octave saxophone and, yes, that is the 2 string slide bass which Sandman made famous. If your system can't reproduce the end vocals with clarity, it means you have too much noise, too much gain overlap, or lower midbass/midrange blending issues causing muddiness, so just read the lyrics lol.

Why would I need time alignment anyway? My front door midbasses and rear fill midbasses are, what? Three feet apart? I doubt that will cause any issues, I don't see anything overpowering either considering the front stage I see in some cars. I may try it in 3 configs: Full set in the rear, midbass in rear mid/tweet up front in 3D config, and mid/midbass rear and tweet up front.

I really hope Bill and I going back and forth over power figures and specs doesn't put people into the mindset that I'm a know-it-all chump who spends money on trash. Bill and I have individual opinions, and are into the hobby enough that we question any manufacturer's build quality. Even if my amps only do 85% rated power, they are doing much better than 85% of what's in most cars. Plus, these amps, I bought them as a shot in the dark. If I don't like them, they go back. I know Vibe is not a familiar brand, but there are countless other small-name, or uncommon companies out there making great gear too. These speakers sound fantastic at retail, at $90 a set they sound like gold. I've auditioned middle of the road studio monitors and several sets of home and car speakers costing 10x or more what these cost with less accuracy and listenability. My only gripe is crossover size and construction quality of the boards, even then, I've owned worse. I'm not going to spend billions on this old car, which is why I'm not going to do any glasswork for kicks or pods either.

YouTube - ‪Morphine - The Night (album version - lyrics)‬‏
 
*Hopefully* I'll be at it again soon, rain for days then 4th of July, then my Mom had to head to the hospital, it made it hard to do much.
 
HCCA amps generally can take the extra stress of 1.5ohm.

Yeah but not bridged on it. I could do it with my HCCA225 but not gonna do it with my 2100. Hell I had my 225 bridged on 4 6.5 Subs at 2ohms and it melted an image of itself into the trunk liner :rolleyes:
 
well my kicker is one ohm stable (it how ive been running my two L7's) but @ 1.5 i wouldn't be getting full power, on the plus side it would be running a little cooler.

i've always just thought it was so strange that with certian JL amps, they always deliver the same output no matter what the load is.
 
well my kicker is one ohm stable (it how ive been running my two L7's) but @ 1.5 i wouldn't be getting full power, on the plus side it would be running a little cooler.

i've always just thought it was so strange that with certian JL amps, they always deliver the same output no matter what the load is.

Yeah it's 1ohm stable like my 2100HCCA but when you bridge it to a 1.5ohm load your putting it to a .75 ohm load. My 225HCCA can handle that but not my 2100. At least I don't feel like putting it under that kind of strain cause I do push my sub amps HARD!

Heck I'm surprised the 1000/1 JL amp is still alive considering it has been underwater with power still going threw it :eek:

Tuff lil am I gotta say :p
 

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