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I broke the number 9 bolt Joegr
I meant valve cover bolt in my original response. I never broke any intake bolts... I messed up when replying Joegr my bad lol.. I just realized I messed up when I looked up the part number
All of those are still available. 3W4Z-6C520-BA, bolt with spacer - this should be the one you need, still made 3W4Z-6C520-CA, bolt with spacer and stud - like the one used to hold the dipstick tube, may be hard to get now
I said not all the plastic is replaced so I'm not sure what you mean. I've replaced the degas bottle and the 2 hoses connected to the bottle. I also replaced the plastic piece the engine fill cap screws to..so the front thermostat housing piece and that seal. Everything else is sitting waiting to see if the car will not have an air leak..and if i can get the heat to work. Can't check it out for about 2 more hours until I am home from school. Also forgot to mention the intake bolts were all really tight so that's why I used a breaker bar.
Well not much work done on the car I hit a deer with it so I had to take care of that. One tough front end on this car I guess. Hit it at about 45 mph and killed it..just caught the front of it on the left side and it hit hard enough to spin it around and get the the fender. Then it just slid along the car and left a trail of poop haha. The bumper got the slightest crack you can't even see and the fog light lens is somewhere in the ditch. Oh and the fender is junk of course. Either way not that bad honesty for the speed it was at.
Quote Joe: "Just a note for all of you that keep saying to "cycle" the DCCV by changing the temperature from hot to cold and back. The DCCV cycles quite a bit if you aren't always at full heat." I was just going by other threads I recently read while researching the DCCV. You probably know which ones. The thought was that the solenoids were sticking,,, and that cycling the temp contols seemed to get the solenoids to work better/properly. Didn't mean to give misinformation.
Not at all. I've seen those posts too, and I finally had to say something...
Thanks for the info Joe. I was just trying to help Morgan do a "process of elimination". I know solenoids, (being electro-magnetic), can be quirky at times... and can "stick". This is why I wanted to make sure that the DCCV/DACT,(temp control), wasn't his issue.
Hey does anyone know the size of bolt # W500014-S426 ...need to buy 2 of these because of the route I'm taking to replace the elbow. They're pretty common I assume and I could just pick it up at the local hardware store? Thanks
The description says M6 x 20mm. I assume that the thread pitch is 1.0.
Something that made it easier and remover the throttle body. We took off the hood. Then we remover all the molding around the windshield. This allows space to get on top of the bolts. Its very hard to work begind the motor with the hood on and the windshield molding and what else is attached.. I need a IAc and I will take off the hood and windshield moldings including wipers.
Didn't think about taking the hood off..I had the wiper cowl and wipers off because I had changed the degas bottle earlier. I could get in there with a little bit a of struggle but the bolt was very rusty down where it broke. It's holding up so far although I haven't drove the car lately due to it overheating again. Now I'm going to change the elbow and thermostat housing. Forgot to ask if I need a gasket or something when I take off the throttle body? Looks like 3 bolts and it separates from the intake..they look rusty but I'll test my luck. No thanks for the bolt info Joe I'll pick 2 up in the morning.
Sorry I meant And* thanks. I can't edit or else I can't see where to edit.
Ya, I was looking for the edit . no see any? Yes, Taking hood off won't cause any damage with 2 guys and 2 wrenches. I placed mine on cushions on car's roof No damage when re installed. Its also allows axcess to the big allen bolt holding down the air filter . Lighting is bright compaired to having hood on car.
It's four bolts. You mean the throttle body adapter (with the throttle body still attached), and not just the throttle body, correct? Anyway, there is a rubber gasket between the manifold and the adapter. I don't think that Ford makes it anymore, but it seems to be available from the aftermarket. Anyway, it seems to be very reusable. I haven't replaced one yet. The gasket between the throttle body and adapter (you shouldn't need to do this) is less robust. It is available from Ford and the aftermarket. Be very careful with the bolts when putting it back together, easy to cross-thread.
Ok I'll have to check for the adapter it connects to. I only saw 3 bolts but it was a quick look. Thanks for the tip on cross threading I don't need anymore avoidable problems.
The adapter is the part that the EGR valve is bolted to. It's between the throttle body and the intake manifold. There is one bolt at each of the four corners in either case.
We had overheating problem too. Nothing was broken like a radiator hose or radiator leaks. Yet it kept needing fluid. A good mechanc friend of mine checked the radiator cap . Seems the gasket wears and while car is driven the preasure pushes out the fluid untill overheating occurs. When I opened hood couldn't see source of leaks till my friend showed me and I bought a new cap that stoped overheating and fluid loss for good
Wait, if you never removed the intake, how do you know that the bolt is flush with the head? Are you sure that it's not just nearly flush with the intake? If so, that you leave a lot of bolt exposed when you remove the intake.
I used one of the bolts I had out and one from a LS intake from a previous car and tried to measure how far. Not exact or anything but it isn't a problem it seems.
I ended up overheating with just those few parts replaced after driving a few times so I decided to change more. I changed the thermostat housing, the thermostat itself, all the seals, and that elbow piece. I finished that job and it wasn't bad. Then I bled the system and had great heat coming from the vents. I could never get it as warm as I did before that..I managed to get it up to around 130-140F. I had about 110-130 can't remember exactly before I even revved it so I figured that fixed the problem. Well here I am a couple days later driving and the thing overheats again..I knew it was going to overheat too because of the temp gauge I am using. The car did not get very hot in the morning maybe 90 blowing out the vents. After school I never made it about 60-70 and it overheated and dropped it even more. Long ride home obviously and now its been sitting because I don't even have a clue anymore. Someone said I may not have gotten all the air out and it started building up and that caused it to overheat..? I assume I am bleeding it more than long enough. Just to be sure I am..how long do you guys normally leave the bleeder open when you first start the car..(as in how long does it take to get a steady stream). After I get a steady stream..(I waited like 8 minutes to be sure)..I closed it and let it idle for 5 minutes. Then I repeated the bleed and left it open another maybe 5 minutes to be sure I get a steady stream. Closed it did the final steps and good to go. Doing that worked then, but today I can't get it to work bleeding it. The temp from the vents won't go up but it overheated while I tried to bleed it. I made the mistake of thinking that it couldn't be hot that fast so I opened the air bleed and it sprayed all my antifreeze from the degas bottle everywhere...car, clothes, eyes,..not fun. Anyway I am wondering myself if it has to do with the temperature outside. I think maybe it was never fixed at all it just was warmer out that day I put the parts on and the few days after (45 i think). Then when it turned colder (maybe 30) it went bad and won't get warm again. Right now I guess I am waiting for a warm day to see if that's true. So to cut all that down to what I really am wondering...what is left to replace besides hoses? I mean most common to least common. I've blown a lot of time and money and sadly don't have a working car still. All thermostat plastic parts and seals are replaced and the degas bottle and the hose that is underneath the degas bottle. Is there anything besides hoses that could be bad that I haven't replaced..because I assume I would see a leak or white spots. I did not replace the cap for the thermostat but it is clean and looks fine is that something that can go wrong even without it looking bad? Thanks for any help I am just looking for something to chase at this point.
Morgan,,, You are still sucking air somewhere. Being that the heater cores are higher than the rest of the cooling system,,, is why you are still not able to get good heat... and why you are still overheating. Something is still getting "air locked" due to sucking air into the cooling system. You still have another bad part somewhere. This is why most everyone familiar with the hassles of the LS cooling system,,, suggests replacing everything at the same time. You could, (and have), spent hours replacing one part at a time... only to have the same problem.