Any Valentine 1 Users?

stugots

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Well, got a speeding ticket last night. 55/45.. I'm not one to speed, but I think it's time to invest in a radar detector.

I'm pretty much set on a Valentine 1, but I'd really like to see some pictures of where you guys mount them before I pull the trigger.

Any advice on them as well? Thanks
 
Look up alax7 he mounted his behind his cluster, looks awesome, don't know what brand he has though. I've heard good things about the v1
 
Look up alax7 he mounted his behind his cluster, looks awesome, don't know what brand he has though. I've heard good things about the v1

26 Valentine Stealth unit in cluster

picture.php
 
Interesting. Never was a fan of the V1 since it required the unit to be mounted on the windshield. Looked up that stealth unit and came across this writeup of a BMW install.

http://www.540i6.com/v1.html

I've always used Bel products in the past, and they work really well. The main detector mounts under the hood, and you can get front and rear laser detectors as add-ons. Then the control unit mounts anywhere convenient in the cabin.

My LS is the only car I have that does not have a stealth unit.
 
I mounted my V1 above the mirror, driver's side. I used to have a BEL STi driver, which was OK, but the V1 is superior. The arrows and counter have helped me avoid multiple speed traps; one of which cost the 2 peeps that passed me a ticket!
 
I mounted my V1 above the mirror, driver's side. I used to have a BEL STi driver, which was OK, but the V1 is superior. The arrows and counter have helped me avoid multiple speed traps; one of which cost the 2 peeps that passed me a ticket!

Did you use suction mounts? Is the rain sensor in the way? And how did you get power to it?

And for Alaxs install, I'm assuming there still has to be something mounted on the windshield?
 
Did you use suction mounts? Is the rain sensor in the way? And how did you get power to it?

And for Alaxs install, I'm assuming there still has to be something mounted on the windshield?

Suction cups. It's above the mirror, to the left and behind the shaded area. The rain sensor is below the mirror. I ran the power lead under the headliner, behind the "A" pillar cover, between the dash and body and into the fuse panel using an "add-a-fuse".
 
Did you look at that link I posted? Dude actually mounted the detector unit under a panel in the roof, inside the fabric. Said it worked fine, and that he lost maybe 2 seconds of response time on the radar side. Of course he completely lost laser, but laser is so finicky that I don't see a lot of cops trying to use it. Chances are you'll see a cop with laser long before he can get a good lock on your car.
 
Did you look at that link I posted? Dude actually mounted the detector unit under a panel in the roof, inside the fabric. Said it worked fine, and that he lost maybe 2 seconds of response time on the radar side. Of course he completely lost laser, but laser is so finicky that I don't see a lot of cops trying to use it. Chances are you'll see a cop with laser long before he can get a good lock on your car.

Yeah that is crazy, glad I live somewhere where its legal. I rarely see cops use lasers around here.
 
I know it's a different unit but I found a guy who made mirror mounts and picked one up for $15 or so. Only pic I have of it but it gets the point across. Don't know how well the Valentine picks up Laser but once my Passport Escort picks it up it's too late if you ask me. Nearly **** myself when it went off too.

IMAG0060-1.jpg
 
pretty cool Jmtiseo. Contact info for this person?

Is the higher the unit is mounted better? I have a Whistler XTR 445 the GF gave me for Xmas, and I think in the manual says mount at the lowest point possible (of course where the line of sight is not interrupted). I think its been working fine.

P.S. this whistler unit works great IMO for not being one of those more common radar detector brands, has saved me a couple of times already.
 
I've had this mount since I started driving over 7 years ago. I got the contact info from my brother who got it from someone on the forum he was once a part of. In other words, I don't have it. It's ridiculous how much they sell the mirror mounts for I'm just glad that this one has lasted as long as it did and it really cleans up the install.

Here's an article of a home made one on a CR-Z? that looks like it can be done pretty easily for an LS as well.

http://www.crzforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/10268-radar-detector-mirror-mount.html
 
but laser is so finicky that I don't see a lot of cops trying to use it. Chances are you'll see a cop with laser long before he can get a good lock on your car.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Radar is far more finicky than a laser.

The laser is point and click on a car. I get speeds in about 2 seconds from vehicles 2500 feet away easily and consistently.
 
Radar isn't finicky at all. It will reflect off most surfaces.

I have mine mounted where I do as Mr. Valentine says to mount as high as possible to get the longest range. I get warnings well in advance. The only time I get enough warning with laser is if there are enough cars around to cause "splash". Also, the detector isn't visible from the outside.
 
i run my detector (solo s2) up above the mirror. works fine.
on my last run to STL in the LS, the S2 alerted me to radar before the cops came into view occasionally. as a result, i was alerted to a speed trap around a corner. i wasn't really over the limit, but i like to know its there.
my brother's V1 is more sensitive than the S2 i think, especially at picking up radar from the sides. he also runs it above the mirror.

i will probably upgrade to a V1 at some point in the future.
 
Nothing could be further from the truth. Radar is far more finicky than a laser.

The laser is point and click on a car. I get speeds in about 2 seconds from vehicles 2500 feet away easily and consistently.

At 2500 feet you either have a great hiding place or are tagging people who aren't paying attention. By finicky I mean:

- You have to be almost head on, otherwise it's not effective.
- The cop has to be stationary where radar can be used while moving.
- Bad weather can interfere, as it is a light beam and light is reflected by water. Smoke, fog, haze, anything that clouds human vision also clouds lidar, reducing its effective range.
- If the cop isn't holding the gun steady, the gun wavering around can affect the reading. If the cop's hand moves up to down a tiny bit causing the beam to hit different parts of the car, he gets an erroneous reading.
- If the alignment isn't spot-on, at 1000 feet you may be looking at one car in the crosshairs but actually hitting the car a lane or two away. Just a 0.5 degree misalignment means that at 1000 feet you're really shooting the next lane.
- If using through the windshield, the safety glass will defract the signal.
- Bright headlights can interfere with the accuracy, which points towards mounting halogen driving lights on either side of the front plate as a possible legal lidar jammer.
- If there are any other objects between the car and the cop, like a pole, the pole may interfere with the signal.
- On your 2500ft clocking ability, considering how far the beam would spread at that distance anyone who wanted to would be able to claim that you could not possibly be clocking them accurately as the beam divergence at that distance would be far enough that you might have hit other cars with the beam. At 1000ft, beam divergence can be 3-4 feet depending on the unit. At 2000ft, beam divergence will be 6-8 feet. If my ticket showed the cop had a range over 1000ft, I would definitely challenge the ticket in court, and use the cop's own operational manual to defend myself.
- Apparently, a driver's car wax selection (if you can beleive advertising) can affect how well your laser picks it up, but car wax would have no effect on radar.
 
Radar isn't finicky at all. It will reflect off most surfaces.

It is extremely finicky. If it's hitting a group of 5 or so cars and one is a large van or truck and I can clearly see a car wildly breaking the speed limit the radar will give me the speed of the large van or truck constantly, and only sometimes giving me little quick, almost unusable flashes of the speeding vehicles speed. The radar always reports back the best signal, not the fastest, which is usually some large vehicle with a nice flat surface and not the aerodynamically shaped sports car.

I almost never get readings off of the wedge shaped corvettes, unless they have a front plate, and even then it takes entirely too long and he has had 10-15 seconds to see me and slow down, not to mention if he had a detector.

Its range is not nearly as far as the laser, and it has to go through the windshield which is detrimental if it is dirty. If the road is bumpy and the radar is vibrating excessively it will struggle to give a reading and rain completely obliterates the radar range.

Radar is finicky, more so than a lidar gun is.

Telco said:
At 2500 feet you either have a great hiding place or are tagging people who aren't paying attention. By finicky I mean:

- You have to be almost head on, otherwise it's not effective.
- The cop has to be stationary where radar can be used while moving.
- Bad weather can interfere, as it is a light beam and light is reflected by water. Smoke, fog, haze, anything that clouds human vision also clouds lidar, reducing its effective range.
- If the cop isn't holding the gun steady, the gun wavering around can affect the reading. If the cop's hand moves up to down a tiny bit causing the beam to hit different parts of the car, he gets an erroneous reading.
- If the alignment isn't spot-on, at 1000 feet you may be looking at one car in the crosshairs but actually hitting the car a lane or two away. Just a 0.5 degree misalignment means that at 1000 feet you're really shooting the next lane.
- If using through the windshield, the safety glass will refract the signal.
- Bright headlights can interfere with the accuracy, which points towards mounting halogen driving lights on either side of the front plate as a possible legal lidar jammer.
- If there are any other objects between the car and the cop, like a pole, the pole may interfere with the signal.
- On your 2500ft clocking ability, considering how far the beam would spread at that distance anyone who wanted to would be able to claim that you could not possibly be clocking them accurately as the beam divergence at that distance would be far enough that you might have hit other cars with the beam. At 1000ft, beam divergence can be 3-4 feet depending on the unit. At 2000ft, beam divergence will be 6-8 feet. If my ticket showed the cop had a range over 1000ft, I would definitely challenge the ticket in court, and use the cop's own operational manual to defend myself.
- Apparently, a driver's car wax selection (if you can believe advertising) can affect how well your laser picks it up, but car wax would have no effect on radar.

-2500 feet is a good bit away
-Correct, can’t move with lidar
-Bad weather also interferes with radar, if it's raining, forget about it.

-"If the cop isn't holding the gun steady, the gun wavering around can affect the reading. If the cop's hand moves up to down a tiny bit causing the beam to hit different parts of the car, he gets an erroneous reading."
Almost true, if I am not holding it steady enough it won’t give you a reading.

-"- If the alignment isn't spot-on, at 1000 feet you may be looking at one car in the crosshairs but actually hitting the car a lane or two away."
We do test these things you know. Mine is accurate up to over 3000 feet measured on a speed limit sign, but after 2500 feet, readings tend to take too long.

-Never go through glass, always sit sideways and shoot it out the driver or passenger window with it down. Glass severely limits its ability, which is one of the reasons radar is finicky. It’s mounted behind the glass.

-Headlights? Really? A complete fallacy. Whatever interference your headlight may create is completely negated by the fact that the laser is effectively bouncing off the mirror's in the headlight. A perfect place to aim it.

-Yes it is a laser, as like a small beam of light. I normally don't try to burn though poles with it.

-One, your ticket will not show the range of the lidar. Two, do you think someone hasn't done that defense? I've had people claim the proximity to an airport caused their false reading. I've heard it all in court.

Two, we don't just blindly rely on the machine. More often than you might thing, we catch people speeding and let em go because we didn't entirely rely in that particular reading. Your claiming that "beam divergence" will save you in court because at that distance the spread is 6-8 feet and you could be getting another car. You know officer testimony is a big part of ticket court.

"Well Mr. Defendant, you were the one passing every other vehicle on that stretch of road, clearly you were the fastest car, so tell me what other car would give me a reading faster than what you say you were going?"


You know, for a thread where you all are discussing radar detectors and how to avoid tickets you sure are dismissing probably the most valuable source of information. I've had to sit though hours of classes on this and get certifications upon certifications on it, and claibrate the radar unit everyday with tunning forks. Yet, internet radar/lidar experts are going to dismiss this information. Righto then. I would have loved this information back in my day when I was scouting for cops all day while I was speeding.

Also, writing tickets is something I do when I am bored. I have no "quota" but they like to see some road activity. I know with 5 seconds of talking to you if you get a warning or a ticket regardless of speed. The number 1 thing you can do to avoid a ticket, is to be cool, and don't lie. Easy warnings all day, but then again. I know some other departments don't see it that way. Looking at you Virginia.
speed-enforced-by-aircraft.jpg
 
After owning the V1, I don't know how I could ever drive another vehicle without one. I am not a consistent speeder by any means. The extra comfort and security it provides me makes it worth twice the price. Just like my dashcam, could never drive without these two things.

I have mine setup exactly like LS4me, but I modified the visor bracket it comes with to tuck into the headliner and avoid suction cups. Mine is also wired into the mirror for power.

77638_846889205252_1423337_o.jpg
 
Heh heh, not necessarily dismissing what you say, Chris, but in this instance you ARE the enemy here. :p We have to take what you say with a grain of salt.

I just can't see how radar would be that vibration sensitive though, since it can be used to clock a vehicle while the police car is in motion. I can see how a big truck can override the radar signal, and because radar will pass through plastic it usually only sees the bumper and engine block on a sports car.

On the driving lights, their reflectors can be used as a target, but (and this is supposition) the right kind of driving light when on would be a natural IR emitter, and might confuse your targeting laser. Do you notice any decrease in range at night vs daytime with the laser gun? If you do see a decrease in range, then it would point towards driving lights as an "innocent" laser jammer seeing as it would be outputting unmodulated IR and not the modulated signal your unit would have to use to be able to identify its own output. Enough unmodulated signal would mask your signal until the return provided a high enough signal to noise to be identifiable.

My uncle was a state trooper in WV for about 30 years before he retired, said that they were trained that when in doubt on which car was speeding, always pick the one in the passing lane.

Another question for you: in Oklahoma they've been putting up metal cable fencing between the lanes on the highways. Does this have any effect on your radar or laser readings, since this has the potential of being a fixed reflective object within the line of sight of your device? I hate these things, one of these days a motorcyclist is going to hit one and get his leg cut off into several chunks.

chainfence.jpg
 

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