94 to 98 Trans Swap Tomorrow, Finally!

NoLimit95

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This is where it starts tomorrow morning and it should be done and driving tomorrow evening, hopefully.

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Yes, I have much more light than this under the car but not doing nothing tonight and don't need it right now.

This is what's going in tomorrow.

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Many pics will be taken of every move I make, as much as I possibly can but Jamie, none will be taken of either one of those trannys on my chest, I hope! I just really want this to all go well tomorrow and get it finished. It's been a long long wait for this. I think I bought that 98 trans back in March or April. Updates coming tomorrow evening or night, with pics.
 
I'll be watching because I think I'm do for a new trans pretty soon. Be sure to post any snags you come across and how you get around them.

Slight side note, a 93 one piece drivline will match up to the improved 98 trans and be the best combo, right? I just gotta know what I'm looking for for when its my turn.
 
that looks like JUST about enough room to get it out and new one in.

ps,dont forget the dipstick tube bolt...
 
Just don't use the re-pinning diagram on TCCOA...

I swapped all electrical parts from a known good 93 trans into the 98 so there will be no re-pinning at all. Plug & Play!


I'll be watching because I think I'm do for a new trans pretty soon. Be sure to post any snags you come across and how you get around them.

Slight side note, a 93 one piece drivline will match up to the improved 98 trans and be the best combo, right? I just gotta know what I'm looking for for when its my turn.

Yes Chrome, the 93 shaft would be the way to go, especially if you plan on hitting the strip to do some passes but if not and you have normal driving in mind only, either shaft will work fine. Unbolting it from the rear end worked perfect using a 1/2" 12 mm socket with a 10" extension on the impact. I never had to turn the shaft for none of the bolts.

I can say so far that this job is no fun by any means. Removing the exhaust was fairly simple and then removing the fuel tank completely was a bit annoying but I got it done. Removing the shaft was kindergarten easy. I got off to a late start today so this is all I have done so far. Tomorrow morning, I have help from a mechanic with over 18 years experience. With him here, this will be done tomorrow for sure. Oh yeah, I cranked the car with only one high flow cat and none on the passenger side. My god that thing was loud. I would have took some pics but the only thing I could have shown would be the exhaust, tank and shaft in the floor. If you want any particular pics, just let me know and I'll get them. It's no problem at all.

that looks like JUST about enough room to get it out and new one in.

ps,dont forget the dipstick tube bolt...

Yes, it's going to be a tight fit going under the car and still not sure that it will ride on a jack to get under there but as for the trans alone, it has plenty of room. Once it's under there, 2 of us should be able to get it up on a jack pretty easy. The dipstick tube is setting aside with a new O-ring already on it. I really hope this is the last time I ever have to do this. I'll put it this way, it will be the last time I do this. Mark VIII engineers were on dope when the drew up the plans for this car. I think they drew them up as they went and laughed about 90% of them.
 
Come on now, you know how people in these forums are,
The more pics the better, even if its just a shot of the tank on the ground, bonus points if there is something in the background that someone can give you some crap about :)
 
Sounds like you got it almost done. Good job, hope it works very good for you. That 98 should last a long time. I cannt believe mine is still working good at over 150K.

P.S. You could have saved some time by not removing the gas tank. I've pulled my trans many times never had to drop the tank. Unbolt the center section and it will drop enough for the drive shaft to slide back over the center.
 
Well, the man that helped me do the swap was at my door 2 hours early Fri morning and ready to get the job done. He's not the type that likes to stop for picture taking lol and really, there wasn't anything that I could take pictures of.

The trans is swapped out now, shaft, tank and exhaust are all back in. I could not be happier with this transmission. I was worried the whole time about the electrical internals that I had swapped out but that thing works perfectly. The J-Mod that I done to it also made a huge difference.

I no longer have any shudder and it has a hellacious 2nd gear from 1/2 way to WOT and good crisp shifting during normal driving. Almost feels like a new car to me because I'm not used to the shift I have and not having the shudder problem. All I had to pay the guy for the much needed help was $100 and the 2nd helpful hand was well worth it. Hopefully I will never have to change it out again but with only 68K on the trans with fresh fluid and J-Mod, I wouldn't think that I have any worries. Tremendous difference that can be felt.
 
Awesome!!!

I hope i was able to help you more than I confused you!

Lol!


No KK, the PDF was 1st grade easy, compared to that TCOAA confusion. Like I said before, I could do J-Mods now, all day long without reading anything. Kracker's electrical internal swap is also 1st grade easy. I'm going to need more fluid. Right now it only has 12 quarts in and when I started it, after the first 5 quarts were put in, I was crazy low on gas. I took my time about getting the fluid in and didn't rush it but at the same time, I didn't have long before I would be out of gas.

First 5 quarts did nothing at all to make it shift into any gears but that's normal with a bone dry trans. I added 3 more, 2 min later, shifted through all the gears slowly and still didn't have much for movement but I could feel a little something happening. Few min later, I added the other 4 quarts and then put the dipstick in. Now I had some good movement and obviously the first thing you want to do is test :D but I needed some gas anyway. BTW, for inquiry minds, $25.00 of Chevron 93 got me 8.01 gallons. $3.09 down here per gallon.

I was easy on it at first until I knew it had warmed up and when I got out onto Madison BLVD., I put it down about 3/4 and the 2nd gear was what I had hoped for. Just simple normal driving, it shifts into 2nd pretty quick and doesn't have the hard jerk but you do know it has went into 2nd.

Anyway, thanks KK for that info you sent and the phone conversation and you too Tommy for the heads up on a few things that I really needed to know before I got started. The info from both of you is what got me off to a good start and caused the end result of what I would call near perfection with what I had to work with.

The pole smoker Jamie wants to send me a picture message to my phone while I'm under the car and show me his new front end parts lol. I was putting the cross member back in and he sends me the pic, titled "Fun Time" :) I was already involved with more than enough fun time. I had to explain myself with a text back and let him know it would be done and he sends back, "you think" :p

All in all, changing out a transmission really does require a 2nd person and luckily, the person I had, really knew what he was doing and was a big help. This goes for the ones that aren't rich enough to have lifts and 15 ft. ceilings and paying someone else to do it for you. Yes, I paid for help but without it, it would still be setting out there not done. Anyone that pays hundreds for a shop to install is either stupid or is simply a wuss or if you don't have at least a garage and it's cold out, I could understand. My garage was about 65 to 70 degrees and old comforters laid under the car. No creepers here!

The one that mentioned that I had just enough room for the trans to go under the car was right. We got the first one out and used a jack but it had to be dropped off the jack and slid out. The 98 had to be slid under and then put up onto the jack and that damn hump on the pan made things hard when we were trying to get it bolted back in. No good way to really balance it. We put a piece of a 2X6 in front of the hump to help balance it but I'm sure there are better ways. Anyway, it's done and works like a new one but better.

Before next week is over, it will have some real exhaust put in. That's another mod I have been waiting a long time for and it's coming.
 
I'm glad its working good for you, and thanks for the details. I wish I had someone around here to drive mine and so I could feel how theres shifts. Mine takes its time going into reverse and seems fine in drive ntil overdrive the it pauses a bit from 3rd to O/D.
I asked the dealer when they did the C/C fix and he agreed it felt like I was going to need a new one, but my brother had a 95 t-bird for along time and he said thats how his felt and he never had any issues....:confused:
 
I'm glad its working good for you, and thanks for the details. I wish I had someone around here to drive mine and so I could feel how theres shifts. Mine takes its time going into reverse and seems fine in drive ntil overdrive the it pauses a bit from 3rd to O/D.
I asked the dealer when they did the C/C fix and he agreed it felt like I was going to need a new one, but my brother had a 95 t-bird for along time and he said thats how his felt and he never had any issues....:confused:


If you do not have shudder problems right now, you can do a J-Mod and the updated 1-2 shift accumulator & springs and a new TCC solenoid, all with only a pan drop. No trans removal at all and all of it is extremely simple to do.

Drop the pan, remove the valve body (take pics & keep up with your bolts and where they are supposed to go) and take it to a clean spot to take apart. Gasket side needs to be facing up, remove that gasket and the other gasket. Have a 3/32 and a 7/64 bit on hand with a cordless drill. I can send you something to show you which holes to drill. I think it was 5 to 7 but only one with the 3/32 bit. Smooth out the holes to remove the steel burr, clean it real good and put your new gaskets back on. Torque all bolts to around 8 to 10 ft pounds and the same for installing the valve body and those bolts. Up at the front, you will see a circle about the size of a silver dollar. Remove that retaining clip but have a C-clamp holding it in place because it has a little tension. Once the clip is out, let off on the C-clamp and have something there to catch some fluid because some will come out.

Install the updated piston and springs. You can leave the lower one out if you want good firm 2nd gear shifts. The TCC solenoid sounds like it's about to go bad on you with the slow shift into OD. That's how mine started all of this. Replacing only that part isn't the answer for long term. Everything I'm telling you is simple to do, doesn't cost much and will make that trans last a lot longer than mine did. Yes, I'm happier with the 98 being in but if I had known what I know now, the 94 trans would most likely still be good today.

Gaskets for J-Mod (if ordered from Max) are $2.00 each and you need 2 of them and both are different. Shipping will be added to that also. Maybe $7.00
TCC solenoid will be around $50 or less. Two 8mm bolts and a grounding clip with a 10mm bolt, hold it in.
I have a fairly new updated set of springs and the piston that I would sell for around $35 or you can order a new set from Ford for right at $60 to $70. Max might be cheaper but the ones I have are good and he can't beat $35.00
Then I would recommend draining the torque converter, which is simple as hell to do. Get out all the old fluid that you can. Go ahead and by a case of Mercon V for whatever it cost in your area.
Put your pan back on after double checking that all bolts are torqued like they should be. Refill with fluid with the first fill of 5 quarts with engine off. Run through your gears after you start it. Reverse, N & drive is enough. No 2nd and 1st shift is needed. Go through them a few times slowly and then add another quart or two. Get back in the car and do the same gear shifts and see what you have. In your case, after 7 quarts, I would start checking the level as you go. I started bone dry but you'll still have a little of the old in. Not much though.

Everything I mentioned can be done within 2-3 hours tops. If you get ready to do this, let me know and I'll send you the perfect info to do the J-Mod. It's simple step by step. Nothing like you would see on TCOAA. Thanks to KK for that!
 
Come on now, you know how people in these forums are,
The more pics the better, even if its just a shot of the tank on the ground, bonus points if there is something in the background that someone can give you some crap about :)


I can go out there and take a shot of that 94 crap setting in the floor before it goes to the curb. I'm taking the MLPS and the new updated accumulator and springs and that's it. I never wanna see that POS again. Oh yeah, I'm gonna get the TCC solenoid out too because it's not old.

See, I fixed one little problem at a time until one day, I had SHUDDER! When you get it, you are stuck with it unless you drop it and fix it. My advise, don't fix little things at a time on the trans. 3 years down the road, it will catch up with you. I know this.
 
Good job, glad it worked out for you!

ahhh the sweet smell of mercon V and success!

lol
 
I have a 98 trans sitting in the back for when my trans goes bad on my 97. So are you saying I can swap the wiring from my 97 to my 98 trans?

I was told that the 98 trans was not any better than the 97 trans by a well known (but I won't name) company that works with marks. Is this true?

Should I rebuild the internals or anything on the 98 before I swap it over?
 
98 trans are mechanically better than the 97's, no jmod or tuning will make them equal.

read jerrys transmission article on tccoa for more detailed info
 
98 trans are mechanically better than the 97's, no jmod or tuning will make them equal.

read jerrys transmission article on tccoa for more detailed info

Thanks XLR...

I think you guys told me this stuff already, but my brain was fried from school and when I called a shop about the cost of the repair they said there was no benefit for me to switch to a 98. I thought he was wrong based on what I've read, but I figured I'd post again in case some new details came about.
 
I have a 98 trans sitting in the back for when my trans goes bad on my 97. So are you saying I can swap the wiring from my 97 to my 98 trans?

I was told that the 98 trans was not any better than the 97 trans by a well known (but I won't name) company that works with marks. Is this true?

Should I rebuild the internals or anything on the 98 before I swap it over?


Camel, if you ever have transmission shudder, it will be an internal problem, not related to electrical parts. If you were to put the 98 in your 97, you would have to re-pin your current wiring harness. Simply swapping out the electrical internals and also the main wiring harness (which is ungodly simple) keeps you from re-pinning anything and that transmission will work just as good. I could swap electrical internals on a transmission (pan off to pan on) in less than 45 min with ease. Also, if the engineers recommend the J-Mod, then there must be reason behind the recommendation. All of it was just too simple not to do and so cheap of a mod, why pass it up?

Good job, glad it worked out for you!

ahhh the sweet smell of mercon V and success!

lol

Yes, the fluid that came out of the 94 was uhhhh, red but had this smell of death or something. The fresh Mercon V that went in had a much better smell and I don't regret one bit of that job except the soreness that I'm feeling today. I'm just happy that everything worked out as planned. I had 3 different things going against me.

1. Did that transmission really work? I had no clue. I bought it off craigslist from a guy that bought an entire 98 engine and trans from another guy in Florida. Engine and trans "on paper" which I did see, did show 68,202 on the engine. The man I bought it from only needed the engine for a old truck rebuild because he's going to use a four speed. Being there are maybe 3 to 5 Gen 1 Marks in Huntsville and Madison alone and very few Gen 2's, I got lucky finding that trans setting there for $250 and even luckier that he brought it to me and helped me unload it.

2. Was I going to mess something up doing my first J-Mod? I didn't know but a few minutes into it and then you ask yourself, how much easier could this be...

3. By doing this internal electrical swap, is this really going to be "plug & play" and actually work? It looked simple enough and I really didn't see any reason for it not to work.

All worked perfect and if I had it all to do over again, I would do it all over again but I would rather not have to go through it again. I'm too old for this :q:q:q:q. :cool:
 
Man I completly missed this thread! Glad you got it swapped and its runnin good. You must be a huppy dude. Glad you had help to. When I first read this thread and saw how high the car was I kept thinking you were really gonna need help. Hell I had a hard enough time putting my fuel tank back in by myself and that thing is 20x easier then a trans to hold up by yourself.
 
Man I completly missed this thread! Glad you got it swapped and its runnin good. You must be a huppy dude. Glad you had help to. When I first read this thread and saw how high the car was I kept thinking you were really gonna need help. Hell I had a hard enough time putting my fuel tank back in by myself and that thing is 20x easier then a trans to hold up by yourself.

Yeah Laser, I was lucky to have had help. A jack was used on the transmission but it had to wait until it was under the car first. It was high enough to slide one under it but not with it on the jack too. I tilted the rear up while he got the jack under it and once it was on, we both pulled it back so that the little deep pocket on the pan was on the back side of the plate with a 2X6 under the front side to keep it level but yes, I am extremely happy now. All of my gears are on the money now when it shifts. No hesitation and my 2nd gear is obnoxious :D and that's what I wanted.

I know what you mean about the fuel tank too. I done mine and it's not fun but after getting all the hoses connected back, I noticed that on the back side, I forgot one of the clamps to the smaller hose up top and I had to drop it back down to get it clamped back. Oh yeah, I used a jack on the tank too lol. Now I have a fowled out plug so I'll be changing all 8 of them tomorrow and she'll be back to normal + some again. I think I bought Motorcraft plugs last time but I'm getting some 764's this time.
 
Glad it all worked out for ya, was hoping to see some pictures but hey they aren't needed.
 

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