8.8 Trac Lok same for IRS?

Thanks rayner601, that was some help.

Let me ask you guys something. Another trac-lok I was looking at apparently is still available. Its from a 2004 Mach1 with very low miles. The upside is it would be $15-$20 cheaper and since its newer I assume it has the relief cut in the side gears. The other one is from a 94 but has a 500 mile old rebuild on it with a stiffer spring.
The Mach 1 unit is also from a LVC forum member so I kinda feel better about buying one off here then another forum I never use.


Which one would you guys get?
 
OMG ONE MORE TIME AGAIN!!! YOU DO NOT NEED SPECIAL "SIDE GEARS" ITS BS!!!!! You CAN USE YOUR AXELS THEY DO NOT HAVE TO snap in!!!! my goodness, mountain out of a grain of sand!! JEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ! ANY 8.8 posi will work PERIOD!!
 
LaserSVT said:
I dont know what that is, can you please explain? Sayin just take off one side hub off and then unbolt both half shafts and remove the c clips, remove one axle and for the other side just slide the pumpkin over after its all unbolted so you dont have to remove both side hubs?


If I take the pumpkin in I will need new axle shaft seals wont I? Also should I bother with the cover gasket or just use the grey silicon like I was planning on?
Click to expand...

Heres a pic for clarity.

johnsrear.jpg
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
OMG ONE MORE TIME AGAIN!!! YOU DO NOT NEED SPECIAL "SIDE GEARS" ITS BS!!!!! You CAN USE YOUR AXELS THEY DO NOT HAVE TO snap in!!!! my goodbness, mountain out of a grain of sand!! JEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ! ANY 8.8 posi will work PERIOD!!
Click to expand...

Take a breath Geno, I understand that. That was the smallest of the concerns my question is should I save the $20 and get the newer one from a Mach1 that a member on here is selling or the older one with a fresher rebuild on it from someplace else.

And thanks for the picture, that is exactly how I was picturing it. Do I need the tool to remove the half shaft from the knuckle or do I just unbolt the whole knuckle and slide it all out from the one side?
 
I do take breaths, many of them. I just can't stand when there is a search function with this in it over 25 times at least and then people constantly saying YOU HVAE to do this, you MUST get the side gears when I have done over 250 of them with no issues. It just drives you nuts over the years thats all. Im not mad at you just venting.

Get ANY 8.8 from ANY application you like and use it, there are and will be NO issues at all.

Summit Racing has the cheapest trac lock and gears as well as installation kits and oil, all in one call. You will need carrier studs as well. Oh and a driveshaft.
 
Oh, didnt know I needed new carrier studs. They are the kind that stretch when you tighten them, whats that called? Compliance bolts? My Ford service manual didnt say anything about that. :(
I will also be getting the 4" drive shaft down the road. Right now I dont get the humm untill 125mph so I will just have to keep it slower untill I can get the new shaft.
The reason I am doing this now is because I can get the major components for under $130 as opposed to over $350.

So I assume I will need to get new carrier bearings, axle shaft seals, diff cover seal, fluids and carrier studs to complete this?
 
I've been waiting to do this for a while... the "one wheel" method looks MUCH simpler!!
 
LaserSVT said:
Oh, didnt know I needed new carrier studs. They are the kind that stretch when you tighten them, whats that called? Compliance bolts? My Ford service manual didnt say anything about that. :(
I will also be getting the 4" drive shaft down the road. Right now I dont get the humm untill 125mph so I will just have to keep it slower untill I can get the new shaft.
The reason I am doing this now is because I can get the major components for under $130 as opposed to over $350.

So I assume I will need to get new carrier bearings, axle shaft seals, diff cover seal, fluids and carrier studs to complete this?
Click to expand...

If you plan on staying with 3.73s look for a '93 drive shaft. You should be fine.

Call max @ Five Star Ford for the parts. he'll hook you up.
 
Why do I need a carrier stud kit? Are the OEM bolts a one time use only? I am not going to be making crazy power.
Plus the diff bearings are new as is the pinion bearing. I will have to get the outer pinion bearing though and I will get the axle seal/bearing kit from Summit. I can get a Felpro cover gasket here and the shims as well.
For the friction modifier, how much of the bottle do I use before I fill the rest with the gear oil? I assume I just fill up the diff (after the friction modifier) untill it reaches the fill/drain hole?
 
With the Amsoil we don't run fm, if it makes you feel fuzzy then throw in 2 oz. Try it without first, if it moans and groans and or chatters then add it.

Just get the carrier studs man trust me will ya' has NOTHING to do with how much power you make.

Again you do not NEED a cover gasket, its channeled from the factory for RTV.
 
I don't run carrier studs but i wouldn't argue with Geno if he says use them. He's broken pretty much every part of the carrier and mounts on these cars
 
Crap, forgot to delete the gasket from the parts list. I was planning on RTV cause I have never had good luck with the gasket. I have learned to let the RTV "set" for a day before refilling the diff to help prevent leaks.
So I guess all I need to order from Summit is the carrier studs and the axle seal/bearings. The outer pinion bearing and shims I can get at O'Reilly and I guess thats everything.
The RTV I have and I already have a bottle of Friction Modifier and Royal Purple gear oil. They were both given to me by a friend when he wrecked his car so since it was free I will use it. This is a super budget build.
 
Also it will be a bit before I can drop $500 on a drive shaft so I will just have to keep her under 100mph :D
I also have to find a 21 tooth gear... guess I can order that from Summit as well. :)
 
OK, here is the deal with the side gears. You can put the car together with the solid axle side gears, and everything will go together just fine. The only catch is that if you leave the clips on the axles, you will NEVER get those axles out again. So you better hope you never need to replace an axle seal or something like that. You can also leave the clips off, and you will probably be OK. The axle is held in place by the spindle, so it can't just pop out. The catch here is that if you break an axle, the piece on the inside will fly out, and probably do some other damage. Option 3 is to get a bevel machined into the side gears, so that you will be able to get the axles out if you need to. Option 4 is to buy an IRS unit. The side gears almost never wear out, especially in a car with a TL, but they do need to match the spider gears, so if you buy a whipped IRS TL unit, you can swap the spiders and side gears into that rebuilt unit, and you will be good to go.
 
:
LaserSVT said:
Also it will be a bit before I can drop $500 on a drive shaft so I will just have to keep her under 100mph :D
I also have to find a 21 tooth gear... guess I can order that from Summit as well. :)
Click to expand...

You will not be able to get anywhere near 100 w/o a shaft.:D
 
Blenderhead said:
OK, here is the deal with the side gears. You can put the car together with the solid axle side gears, and everything will go together just fine. The only catch is that if you leave the clips on the axles, you will NEVER get those axles out again. So you better hope you never need to replace an axle seal or something like that. You can also leave the clips off, and you will probably be OK. The axle is held in place by the spindle, so it can't just pop out. The catch here is that if you break an axle, the piece on the inside will fly out, and probably do some other damage. Option 3 is to get a bevel machined into the side gears, so that you will be able to get the axles out if you need to. Option 4 is to buy an IRS unit. The side gears almost never wear out, especially in a car with a TL, but they do need to match the spider gears, so if you buy a whipped IRS TL unit, you can swap the spiders and side gears into that rebuilt unit, and you will be good to go.
Click to expand...

Sorry dude total BS> I have left the clips in EVERY job and they snap in and out just fine man. Thats another old wives tale from somewhere LMAO!

Leave them in ITS FREAKIN FINE MY GAWD!!!
 
Again, again, again just get this it has ALL you will NEED, then just get the axel seals & bearings. Read what it comes with.

Brand Motive Gear
Manufacturer's Part Number R8-8RMK
Part Type Ring and Pinion Gear Installation Kits
Product Line Motive Gear Master Ring and Pinion Installation Kits
Summit Racing Part Number MGR-R8-8RMK

Cover Bolts 10
Ring Gear Bolts 10
Pinion Spline Count 30
Ring Gear Rotation Standard
Cover Gasket Included Yes
Pinion Shims Included Yes
Carrier Shims Included Yes
Crush Sleeve Included Yes
Pinion Seal Included Yes
Pinion Nut Included Yes
Ring Gear Bolts Included Yes
Head Bearing Included Yes
Tail Bearing Included Yes
Carrier Bearings Included Yes
Axle Seals Included No
Axle Bearings Included No
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes Fits 1981 and newer.
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
Again, again, again just get this it has ALL you will NEED, then just get the axel seals & bearings. Read what it comes with.

Brand Motive Gear
Manufacturer's Part Number R8-8RMK
Part Type Ring and Pinion Gear Installation Kits
Product Line Motive Gear Master Ring and Pinion Installation Kits
Summit Racing Part Number MGR-R8-8RMK

Cover Bolts 10
Ring Gear Bolts 10
Pinion Spline Count 30
Ring Gear Rotation Standard
Cover Gasket Included Yes
Pinion Shims Included Yes
Carrier Shims Included Yes
Crush Sleeve Included Yes
Pinion Seal Included Yes
Pinion Nut Included Yes
Ring Gear Bolts Included Yes
Head Bearing Included Yes
Tail Bearing Included Yes
Carrier Bearings Included Yes
Axle Seals Included No
Axle Bearings Included No
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes Fits 1981 and newer.
Click to expand...

Geno, why would I spend another $90 on that kit when I dont need the cover gasket, the pinion shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, pinion nut, ring gear bolts, head bearing, carrier bearings?
The ring and pinion only has 8,000 miles on its bearing and comes with new crush sleeve, shims and has all the bolts and pinion nut all with 8000 miles on them. Should be fine.
The diff comes with new bearings as well so all I need are shims, axle seals/bearings, carrier studs and the outer pinion bearing (is that the tail or head bearing, I assume tail)
 
Woot woot! My shop just said $200-$225 to do it with it still in the car! I am definatly going that route! :wrench
 
Crap! My gear oil and friction modifier didnt make it in the move.
I cant seem to find the Amsoil at the stores here in an online search. I checkes NAPA, Autozone and O'Reilly.
So if I cant get the Amsoil here what weight/brand oil should I use and how many quarts do I need? Also nobody seems to have the Motorcraft FM eaither. What brand should I get? Is the Currie or the Red Line better?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to do this right and cheap. :D
 
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