1997 Evergreen/Ivory Progress

Work, School and my surgery recovery has lightened up on me so I was able to get out in the shop this weekend and get some stuff done. Motor mounts are modified to accept passage of a stainless downpipe. Manifolds are modified as well to begin running the hot side of the 70MM Precision BB turbo. Had to heat and bend the A/C lines coming out of the compressor to clear the new Up-pipe on the passenger side.

More progress more quicker from now on.

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Glad to hear that you are finally able to get some work done. Looking forward to the pictures.
 
Your fabrications always blow me away. The imagination of your build solutions deserve a Nobel for the accomplishment of stoichiometry. Or just cool sounding intake and exhaust. They are not only excellent designs, they are beautiful sculpture. I've always thought of metal fab guys and gals as artists - and your car is the gallery. I'm betting all three are exemplary. Thank you for keeping us up to date on your fabulous project. Fast and sleek. Too cool.
 
too cool Mike.
my brother couldn't figure out why the exhaust manifolds were on backwards. lol.
 
My wife was asking about that too. I didn't have the heart to tell her that theyare facing that way so I can spend alot of money.
 
It drones. Bad.


So much so, that I'm completely re-doing it again.

Terminator Manifolds, Magnaflow cats, 2-2.5" in to oval out mid muffler, and new rear mufflers. (The quiet kind.)


I'm done with loud exaust, and am aiming for stock levels of quiet out of both the 95, and the 97.

The headers are going to K9t8m for his 96, and I'll be ripping this system out and modifying it to work with the new components.

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Speed cal is wired in as well, so the air-ride, and VSA works like it should as well.

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It drones. Bad.


So much so, that I'm completely re-doing it again.

Terminator Manifolds, Magnaflow cats, 2-2.5" in to oval out mid muffler, and new rear mufflers. (The quiet kind.)


I'm done with loud exaust, and am aiming for stock levels of quiet out of both the 95, and the 97.

The headers are going to K9t8m for his 96, and I'll be ripping this system out and modifying it to work with the new components.

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Speed cal is wired in as well, so the air-ride, and VSA works like it should as well.

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That's too bad Mike, really hoped you were on to something.
 
Are those 18" wheels? What brand and size rear tires are they? Didnt see a wheel and tire size in the thread.
 
There is a company, just saw the ad on YouTube, but they make helmholtz resonators for exhaust. It is supposed to eliminate exhaust drone.
 
There is a company, just saw the ad on YouTube, but they make helmholtz resonators for exhaust. It is supposed to eliminate exhaust drone.

They do work, you can build your own.
The tube can be attached at any angle and curve/bend to fit the space needed. The diameter of the tube doesn't really matter but will affect the amount of attenuation. same size as the exhaust pipe is a good starting point.
I didn't write the info below and the only thing I would change is the "speed of sound" calculation number to around 400m/s to account for temp rise.
The calculation in the write up is an example for drone at 2000rpm. make sure you use your own numbers ;}

The concept behind drone is pretty simple; nearly everything has a resonant frequency...exhaust systems, electronic RLC circuits, even gravitation has resonance. At peak resonance, the amplitude of the wave at the resonant frequency shoots up to many times higher than normal amplitude. With sound resonance, it pops up when a certain frequency emitted from the engine resonates with the exhaust system and muffler to create that nasty in-cab drone. Unfortunately this resonance often has its peak right in the area where you want to cruise, between 55-75mph.

The solution is a 1/4 wave resonator tube. Simply put, it is a small piece of exhaust pipe with a flat capped end welded nearly perpendicular to the exhaust flow post-muffler that serves to take some of the resonant amplitude and shoot it back into the exhaust pipe out of phase with the resonant frequency to bring down the amplitude. If you've ever taken a physics class, this is in the 'standing wave dynamics' chapter. Mufflers are designed to bring down the amplitude or volume of the exhaust note at all RPMs, but they typically can't do anything about resonance. Corsa mufflers have a built-in resonator that works decent, but only with the entire exhaust kit. Sometimes you'll run across a setup that drones at an RPM the Corsa muffler and exhaust wasn't designed to combat, so theres a chance the internal resonator will do little to no good.

Things you need to know to build the resonator:

-RPM that drone occurs at
-Number of cylinders (engines with simultaneous firing cylinders like the SRT-10 truck will divide this number by two)

You will also need to know the speed of sound. It varies with temperature, but is generally accepted to be 343m/s.

Say your V8 truck resonates at 2000rpms, right at cruising speed. You'll need to find the frequency of the drone. Units here are pulses per second, or Hertz.

f = RPM * pulses/rev * (1/60)

f = 2000 rev/min * 4 pulses/rev * (1/60)

f = 133.34 pulses/second = 133.34Hz

At 2000rpms, your V8 fires 4 times per revolution. RPM is in minutes, so divide by 60 to reduce to seconds. Now you need to find the length of the wave at the frequency you just calculated. Wavelength is denoted by lambda (λ), units are meters.

λ = v/f = speed of sound / frequency

λ = (343m/s)/(133.34Hz)

λ = 2.572 meters

This gives you the length of a full sound wave. The idea here is to reintroduce a sound wave into the exhaust that is 180° out of phase with your drone frequency. To do this, you build your resonator tube at exactly one-fourth the length of the resonant wave. By the time the sound wave enters the resonator tube, bounces off the end and re-enters the exhaust stream, the amplitude is exactly opposite of the drone frequency and will lower or eliminate the volume of the drone.

Dividing the wavelength by 4 gives you 0.643m, or about 2.1 feet. Its long and kind of awkward, but someone who has had to deal with a droning truck on a road trip will likely sacrifice the space to make it fit

The diameter of the tube you'd need is debatable, as I haven't tried different sizes of tubing. When I built mine, I took a shot in the dark and went with 2" pipe on my 3" exhaust. It gives about half the surface area at the end of the tube to bounce off of. I assume a larger resonator tube would allow more sound to bounce back and cancel more of the drone noise. However, space is somewhat limited when you are sending an exhaust pipe off of your existing pipe at some odd angle. You can bend the resonator tube to some extent, but it needs to be mandrel bent, not more than one bend or more than ~30°. If the bend is too sharp, the sound will bounce back too early and the resonator will work poorly or won't work at all.

The reason for this is simply the fact that sound waves do not necessarily 'flow' with whatever medium they are travelling in. Sound is a pressure wave, and any obstacle (bends) will return the wave prematurely. To minimize 'obstables' in the resonator tube, the straighter it is, the better it will work. The intent is not to randomly scatter the sound wave as a radius will tend to do, but to send it back to the exhaust precisely when it is needed.

So, you just need to mock up your resonator tube in a place that it will fit, cut a hole into the exhaust pipe and weld the tube to it and enjoy a drone-free ride.
 
Update.

I hated the exhaust setup so badly, that I ripped it apart for a redux.

Kooks are gone and given to k9t8m for his 96. I had this set of Terminator manifolds sitting in a parts tote for a while so I figured what the hell and started putting them on. Drivers side is on and bolted down, with little interference from the dipstick. (Steering mods are on their way)

For the Passenger side I decided to get the mape teasure out and check to see what I can run instead of the funky terminator pass side unit. This one I'm using is a stock gen2 manifold. (Same outlet Diameter, just the smaller primary ports which is'nt a problem anyway because this is a stock engine.)

While I had it easily accessable, I figured I would TIG the A.I.R. injection bung closed.

Now I don't have to worry about finding that stupid passenger side downpipe. Easy peasy.

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The final (I hope) setup is as follows. Magnaflow Highflow Cats. Modified 2.5"x2 input to modified to 1 oval output magnaflow in the middle. New quiet rear mufflers are on the way as well.


I'm done with loud. :)
 
interior dye

Hi I know it's been a while since this post, but I was wondering if the interior dye you used was something the store mixed for you or if it was something off the shelf. I was looking for the same product and haven't had much luck. I have always trusted SEM but they don't have a light enough color as you had already found out as well.
Thanks,
Michael

will post pis later on the interior work. coouldn't find the right dye to use so i went to dales paint here in the springs and got some interior spray paint the lady said to use a good soap and warm water with a scotch pad to gentley remove the dirt and oils from the suface. while wearing gloves to do this. then using real light coats to spray the paint on with 10 to 15 minutes between coats . it was warm and sunny while doing this it took over two hours to complete. we let it set overnight then installed the seats. NOW to see how they wear over time. like the results as it looks damm good. at least we can get it back on the road . have a few projects to do on it . replace the streering hose , paint the lsc trim for the sides and headlights also redo the front and rear bumper covers, replace the blend door acturator. beside getting the 95 together. ahhhh retirement.
 

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