1995 Indigo Lights/Black LSC Progress

We're getting a surgon bottle this weekend, but I'm worried I'll need to do a lot more prepwork before welding.

The fluxcore wire burns away all the paint and contaminants on its own. I dunno, trial and error I guess.
 
Well I'm no expert on welding only tried it a few times on some small sections of exhaust..but that looks damn good! Have you given any more thought on what color you want to paint it? I know you have that evergreen mark now so if you aren't thinking of doing green..you should consider mustang lava red, I know I've said it before in a few paint threads, but I'm dying to see that color on a Mark..I think the curves of the body would show off the metal flake nicely.
 
We're getting a surgon bottle this weekend, but I'm worried I'll need to do a lot more prepwork before welding.

The fluxcore wire burns away all the paint and contaminants on its own. I dunno, trial and error I guess.

It will need cleaned of oils and paint before you weld, and the weld itself will look different.

I've used flux core before, lots of smoke, spatter, residue. Using a shielding gas, better weld, less smoke, less spatter and easier clean up.
 
Sometimes the cleanup from fluxcore is easier than the prep work for MIG. (Been in this field for a while)


I'm gonna give shielded a try this evening after work, but I'm gonna pick up a large roll of .030 fluxcore just to have incase.
 
If you swap the polarity, the spatter is minimal if any. I don't mind fluxcore, great for welding outdoors ;)

Looking good Mike. Hurry up now ;)
 
In my opinion, the self-shielded flux core wires are one of the worst welding products invented, they create brittle, shallow welds, are difficult to use, incredibly easy to misuse, and they create toxic, hazardous fumes so they should NEVER be used indoors.On the other hand, they probably shouldn't be used at all.NOTES:*-when using pure CO2, always use ER70S-6 MIG wire.-MIG welding (with gas), or gas-shielded flux core (aka dual-shield), the torch needs to be connected to the POSITIVE. The ground clamp is negative.-when using "self-shielded" flux core wires, the opposite is true- the torch is always NEGATIVE.
 
For the record, I do know how to weld fellas. :)


We just picked up a 75/25 Argon/CO2 mix today. I also picked up a .030 12.5 lb spool of wire. (Should be good to go for the remainder of this project.)

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Welding is done finally.

The passenger side shocktower area needed some touch up because of my ineptitude with fluxcore, on tight curves. I ground everything out with a die-grinder and re-welded it all.

Also got what little filler I'm using in the engine bay put down tonight.

Now I have to lift the car up higher and sand all the burnt areas down to get them ready for primer.


Huzzah.



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Finally done with the engine bay and Fender welding. Sikkens Etching Primer is sprayed and ready for Full primer on Wednesday after work.


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I hope you covered your front glass during all that welding.

Looks like its going well though!
 
Mike,
are you spraying the underbody with the outside/engine bay color or is it staying black ?

I wish I had a helper like that BTW ;)
 
The undercarriage will stay chassis black.

I considered painting/clearcoating it untill I figured up the cost. :D

The inner fender wells will be the body color though.
 
The undercarriage will stay chassis black.

I considered painting/clearcoating it untill I figured up the cost. :D

The inner fender wells will be the body color though.

Has that color been decided yet? I'm anxious to see the final color on it!
 
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Engine bay and inner fenders are in primer.

Hoping to have it in paint and clear this weekend to start reinstalling the wiring and drivetrain.
 
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Masked and ready to rock.

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Don't breathe this stuff....

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2 coats on the hood, and 3 on the doors, 10 minute flashtime between coats.
 
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Masked and ready to rock.

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Don't breathe this stuff....

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2 coats on the hood, and 3 on the doors, 10 minute flashtime between coats.

Mike, I.can't tell from the pics how the door handle opening is taped. My suggestion would be to tape it from the back side, the handle and gasket don't cover much.
The tighter/flatter you have your paper/tape the less blow back you get from openings where tape/paper can create a pocket when the air hits it from the spray gun.
 
It's back masked to keep any hard lines from forming.


That pocket will be final sanded, sealed, and shot with color and clear.


Thanks for the lookout though. Btw, I may have some questions for you in regards to your homeade spray booth.

:)
 
It's back masked to keep any hard lines from forming.


That pocket will be final sanded, sealed, and shot with color and clear.


Thanks for the lookout though. Btw, I may have some questions for you in regards to your homeade spray booth.

:)

PM sent
 

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