1994 Mark VIII cranking but not starting

MN12hybrid

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My 94 Mark (base with 240k miles roughly) decided to not start up today - I thought it was the fuel pump at first but after checking I hear the pump starting up when turning the key to "accessory." I have had this same issue in the past caused by the factory alarm. I dont have the key transmitter either. My door sensor on the drivers door makes it worse since it needs to be changed, along with a new door handle (and the internal switch with it too). My interior door lights happen to stay on when the car is running as well, but the past 1.5 years I have had the car it has been nothing more than a nuisance.

I checked the forum history and could not find anything to specific to what I am facing right now.

When I park my car and close the driver door, and walk around and go into the passenger door the green security light flashes. If I lock the doors and close the pass side door the green light will still flash (it does this about 75% of the time). Within a moment or less the alarm can go off after that... If I type in my code on the keypad on the driver door, the flashing green light will stop. Entering the code will also turn off the alarm, and then I am able to lock the driver door and walk away without worries that the car alarm will activate. It seems as if the driver exits the car and closes the door after the passenger it seems to not happen at all, and I was suspecting that the door switches are tripping out my alarm.

Whenever I park my car, the keyhole light, and the interior door lights stay on and its the computer that cuts them off after a while. If you enter the trunk or the hood, the lights are also cut off. The only way to get those lights I just mentioned to turn back on is to touch a number on the keypad, and the lights only stay on as long as the key pad is lit up.

Another weird thing is if you have turn on the headlights without the car running, it sounds like there is a "siren like" whooooop sound coming from the inside of the dashboard. Start the car up with the lights on and that sound is not there.

In the past, I tried starting the car when the green security was flashing and it wouldnt start at all - I dont remember if it didnt crank though since that was close to 1.5 years ago right after I just got the car.

I started my car today for just a moment because I was going to move it, but I didnt end up moving it and it had no problem starting then. I close my car up (or I thought so at least) and upon getting back to my car later I noticed the pass side door was slightly ajar to the point where it was not clicked in place and hooking on the striker. The security light on the dash was not lit up, when I got in and tried starting I had found that it just cranks with no start.

I still have to check if its even producing a spark, and I still wanted to see if I can get it to start with starting fluid sprayed into the TB while cranking. Obviously I have to check these other basics and I will be able to tomorrow morning with more time available to me, but I wanted to check first on here to see what else I can do while I diagnose this in the next 8-9 hours. As soon as I get this additional info I will post it in this thread also.

I appreciate the help! I have to get this car moving again asap to get me back and forth to work and I am nerve wrecked right now since I just started another job and the last thing I need is to miss work this early after starting. I have a bunch of other bugs that I am going to finally put time into and work out now that I have a job again, so I will be making more posts as I work with these things. I also am making another post for my passenger side tail light since that seems to be an electrical problem as well and using search doesnt give too specific of an answer.

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Some questions I had...

-- If the alarm is keeping the car from starting, is it just cutting the spark or does it actually cut power to the starter?

-- Do the fuel pumps on these cars get weak and actually cause enough of a problem to make the car hesitate? I ask this because my car was hesitating recently and I thought that maybe my fuel pump is on its last legs. I probably need to change the pump anyway being with 240k miles just for preventative measures, but I want to get the car mobile again asap first. I checked the relay and cut off switch in the trunk, and there is power to the relay as well.

-- Is it possible that the pump is not getting enough power or that its just too weak (even though it powers up and sounds normal)?

-- Does this sound like the alarm could be causing this? I disconnected the battery for an hour while charging it (the cranking constantly took a lot of juice).

-- How often do the crank sensors go bad on these cars? I have that as a distant possibility floating around in my head as well.

-- Over here in Los Angeles there are wrecking yards with plenty of Marks (usually) and I will go again in the next couple days. I am trying to figure out what I need to get on my car to fix this issue, so I can retrieve this in the wrecking yard.
 
That's a lot of information! I also have a 94 that I've had for the last 14 years.
1st take that frick'n alarm module out and through it in the trunk!! It just un-plugs so don't be scared! That will cure a lot of your problems.
2nd replace the fuel pump! Mine went out at 175K and had the same symptoms as your's. Your's is way over due.
3rd....go from there!
 
As spree stated unplug the alarm
Not sure gen 1 alarm will prevent a start.
Fuel pump should be replaced regardless at them miles.
But sounds more like a crank shaft position sensor/ harness that's causing the no start.
Also clean the sensor in the door and replace the one in the door jam.
 
I agree with slowmkviii, that it's probably crank sensor/connector problem. I would try unplugging and reconnecting crank sensor first. If it doesn't start then you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. And I wouldn't use starting/ether on a 240k engine. Likely to blow head gaskets. Use carb cleaner instead. Less explosive and gas engines will run on it.
 
The car would start even with alarm problems! If the alarm goes off you can still start it and drive away. The alarm will be going off the entire time your driving. Definitely draws attention but doesn't keep it from starting or driving.
 
I would just go ahead and replace the one in the door. Here is what the door ajar sensor looks like. It's berried in the door look mechanism in the door. Make sure to have a bucket of cuss words ready before starting. The switch in the door jam is a common fault as well.


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hgjnmu k66.JPG
 
Sorry about my lengthy posts! I was a little thrown off by finding (after not being here in almost 9 months) that Doug had passed. He helped me out with a few things when I first got my Mark early last year, and was very patient and helpful with me and this is a serious loss across the board and to his family.

I pulled out all of the cables going to the alarm box in the trunk and still nothing different. I finally was able to check and I cant get any spark..

When I first got this car it had 217k miles, and the underside of the motor was so gunked up with leaked fluids that some of the metal lines were completely hidden! I had to grab at least 20 handfuls of gunk off, and then I blasted the rest off with the air compressor engine cleaning attachment I have and got it pretty clean, but its getting dirty again fast because of these leaks! I mention this because the thought crossed my mind that the CKP plug could be gunked up like crazy. I was told that the motor and trans were changed at 180k but I am beginning to think its BS. I have found no marks, or tags on the motor that would indicate a different one was swapped in. At my mileage I am pretty sure that my trans has been swapped - even though its not in the best shape, it seems to shift fine with no slippage and works for now.

As familiar as I am with this car because of my vast experience with my previous MN12's, I am also clueless because I had very little exposure overall to the idiosyncrasies of these mod motors, and air ride setup.

I response to the other posts, I cleaned the door switch sensors a few months ago (same as my MN12's as well) and it made things better for a while, but the issues came back... sometimes the door chime sensor will kick on while I am driving down the street if I go over a large enough bump, and its pretty irritating... Ill pick up some new switches and door handles from a continental soon I guess, since my drivers door handle is falling off.

I should also mention that I have to roll down my drivers window to open the door - the handle inside wont open the door, it just unlocks if you pull it so I am not sure if that is related in any way.

I found a Mark at the wrecking yard last year with 90k miles and airbags from 2006 front and rear, and I could shoot myself for not grabbing ALL the parts from that car that I needed to fix all of these big issues, and little annoying issues.

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-- Where is the CKP and plug located? Its well over 100 degrees out here, so I was hoping to check here first before trying to locate it on my car. Ill search the forum as well, but wanted to ask that here in case I don't find anything specific enough. If the plug is at the bottom of the motor and near all the gunk I was mentioning, then that cant be good either.

Thank you for the rapid responses and help guys! It helps ensure that more of these special cars remain on the road!
 
Ckp sensor front right bottom of motor behind the ac compressor if you look close you can see the plug from the top

Also the alarm modual is behind the glove box.
In the trunk is just the controls for the key pad and remote.
 
It was the CPK - I pulled the plug and cleaned the hell out of both ends with electronics cleaner... back on the road, pinging away!

Is the alarm module just below the blower motor module?

Thanks for the help!
 
the handle inside wont open the door, it just unlocks if you pull it so I am not sure if that is related in any way.

When that exact thing happened to me it was because my door latch mechanism was f'd. Outside door handle would work fine, but the interior handle with just pop the lock but not actually open the door. Door latch mechanism inside the door was bent up and trashed pretty bad. New (well, old) solved the problem.
 
Just to follow up on the last thread Kevin posted, the switches I replaced were old and sometimes the interior lights would come on for no reason while it was in the garage and sometimes the car wouldn't vent but since the new switches have been put in, there hasn't been one problem with venting or lights coming on. Still working good.
 
It was the CPK - I pulled the plug and cleaned the hell out of both ends with electronics cleaner... back on the road, pinging away!

Is the alarm module just below the blower motor module?

Thanks for the help!

Alarm is plastic module, right next to the blower motor.
 

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