13's how do i get there?

That's a nice car you have there Don. Very respectable time too running it conservatively at 7 psi, of course with stock rods and pistons, you're just playing it safe and obviously having a lot of fun too! Are you shifting into overdrive at the end of the track???
 
We all know that the the Gen 1 is quicker than the Gen 2. For my next rebuild I am mating a Gen 1 Bottom end which is going to be totally rebuilt with new rings and bearings, hone the block, and all the particulars that need to be done to the bottom end, and put on the C heads I recently picked up and the Cobra intake. I am going to reuse the same pistons and rods. I have to be increasing power a little bit. Top that off with 3.73 gears, 3200 stall torque converter, fully rebuilt transmission, Kooks headers. When I am done, I will have about $5000 into it.
 
The two quickest I know of are gen 2's Burbank and Schultz. But under the hood there more Cobra than Mark. Good luck with yours I've been watching with anticipation.
 
KStromberg said:
That's a nice car you have there Don. Very respectable time too running it conservatively at 7 psi, of course with stock rods and pistons, you're just playing it safe and obviously having a lot of fun too! Are you shifting into overdrive at the end of the track???
Click to expand...

Thanks. In that run you can hear the converter lock up to soon and it drops out of the power band. I've found it best to turn it off half way down and then turn it back on right at the end as it hits red line. Mph are 4 to 5 higher and ET .1 faster.
 
GMAN said:
... new rings and bearings, hone the block,... C heads ...Cobra intake...same pistons and rods... 3.73 gears, 3200 stall torque converter, fully rebuilt transmission, Kooks headers. When I am done, I will have about $5000 into it.
Click to expand...

If you do all that for $5K, you're my new hero.
 
Don Pfau said:
Thanks. In that run you can hear the converter lock up to soon and it drops out of the power band. I've found it best to turn it off half way down and then turn it back on right at the end as it hits red line. Mph are 4 to 5 higher and ET .1 faster.
Click to expand...

You should get your tune revised so that you don't have to do that. I always run down the track with o/d off. When you are shifting into overdrive like that, it really stresses the band. Some revisions with the lock-up schedule and shift points should easily solve your problem. ;)
 
Yea I've been told that a few time. I think I work for it. But its getting to be time to give the Cobra a little attention.
 
GMAN said:
We all know that the the Gen 1 is quicker than the Gen 2.
Click to expand...

The difference between a Gen 1 and Gen 2 isn't actually that much for a properly tuned car and if you know how to drag race them. Based on my experience, the difference may not exist at all. I had a 1993 'the fastest year' and it ran 14.3 with just an exhaust and a K&N panel filter. I now have a 98 LSC that has run a 14.4 with the same exhaust.

To be exact:
my 1993's best was 14.317 @ 97.46 mph
my 98 LSC's best is 14.416@ 96.07 mph

I raced that 93 a lot more than the 98 and I think I could get closer to the 93's time if I had perfect conditions. I only ran 14.3 once in my 93 and conditions were perfect for a Mark VIII. Most of the time the 1993 ran 14.4-14.6, the same range my 1998 runs.

Ken
 
i've been in the mustang fox scene now for over a decade.

For years I've dreamed of a hi 12/low 13 second car. Twice I put together a combo that should have been good for those times, and twice I laid down a 15 flat, then a high 14, lol.

I did a 14.8 in a 320(5.0 roller crate motor,t5 trans) horse 66 mustang stripped down weighing maybe 2800 pounds at best.....meanwhile my friend with the exact same combo in a fox mustang weighing at least 400 pounds heavier just clicked off his first 12.9

So what's the trick?? Every one of us, especially me dream of having a street car that we can go to the track in and just click off a 12/13 second pass with nothing other than n/a bolt ons.

Its completely possible and attainable. HOWEVER, over a decade of experience has told me this....My friends who have all achieved 12's n/a with nothing other than a junkyard set of explorer gt40p heads and intake on a 5.0/302 engine live at the track...meanwhile other friends with more head and boost who don't live at a track click off times that are the same give or take.

good times therefore require one of two things.

1. A HARDCORE addiction to the track..>I'm talking min 2-4 days a month racing for a couple of years straight..>This will enable your bolt on mods plenty of time for finite test and tuning...and to hone your drive skills. My friends can drive the piss out of their cars, and that's why they go fast.

2. Boost and Heavy mods to make up for the lack of fine tuning and driver skill.

unless you fit into one of those two categories, which most of us don't, having a mark with gears and a converter and a tune with 13's just isn't gonna f'n happen for nearly all of us.

and what happens if you do get hardcore?? Well one friend has gone through at least 4 8.8 rebuilds over the past few years that I can count of, three different engine combo's, 4-5 different trannies, and countless other breakdowns from rockers to a billion clutches, broken 31 spline axles...you name it.
 
v8only said:
good times therefore require one of two things.

1. A HARDCORE addiction to the track..>I'm talking min 2-4 days a month racing for a couple of years straight..>This will enable your bolt on mods plenty of time for finite test and tuning...and to hone your drive skills. My friends can drive the piss out of their cars, and that's why they go fast.

2. Boost and Heavy mods to make up for the lack of fine tuning and driver skill.
Click to expand...

I'm in agreement with this idea... I'm going with #2, at least then I can brag about dyno numbers and 60-130 roll times :D
 
Run a high stall with a automatic and gears. My Cobra is much more powerfull than the Mark but it would be hard for me to beat it because I'm not that great with a standard. Plus the car would be trashed by the time I got enough practice. I have a freind who is a great driver. Never lets of the throttle with a cobra like mine and runs 11.7 regularly. Plus the auto is kinder to the rest of the drive train. I've broke axles in the Cobra. The Marks are smaller but no problem.
 
14.6@97MPH said:
The difference between a Gen 1 and Gen 2 isn't actually that much for a properly tuned car and if you know how to drag race them. Based on my experience, the difference may not exist at all. I had a 1993 'the fastest year' and it ran 14.3 with just an exhaust and a K&N panel filter. I now have a 98 LSC that has run a 14.4 with the same exhaust.

To be exact:
my 1993's best was 14.317 @ 97.46 mph
my 98 LSC's best is 14.416@ 96.07 mph

I raced that 93 a lot more than the 98 and I think I could get closer to the 93's time if I had perfect conditions. I only ran 14.3 once in my 93 and conditions were perfect for a Mark VIII. Most of the time the 1993 ran 14.4-14.6, the same range my 1998 runs.

Ken
Click to expand...

You haven't seen the NA list on the other forum have you.:D The vast majority of them in the 13s, especially deep into the 13s are the Gen1s. Don't ask me why, but it seems to be the case. I believe every NA Mark with heavy bolt-ons will get into the 13s NA, but DEEP 13s are usually the Gen1s. I am curious though, because if I can click off a 13.5 this year, I'll be in the top 5 on this list and the only Gen2 listed with such a time.


v8only said:
i've been in the mustang fox scene now for over a decade.

For years I've dreamed of a hi 12/low 13 second car. Twice I put together a combo that should have been good for those times, and twice I laid down a 15 flat, then a high 14, lol.

I did a 14.8 in a 320(5.0 roller crate motor,t5 trans) horse 66 mustang stripped down weighing maybe 2800 pounds at best.....meanwhile my friend with the exact same combo in a fox mustang weighing at least 400 pounds heavier just clicked off his first 12.9

So what's the trick?? Every one of us, especially me dream of having a street car that we can go to the track in and just click off a 12/13 second pass with nothing other than n/a bolt ons.

Its completely possible and attainable. HOWEVER, over a decade of experience has told me this....My friends who have all achieved 12's n/a with nothing other than a junkyard set of explorer gt40p heads and intake on a 5.0/302 engine live at the track...meanwhile other friends with more head and boost who don't live at a track click off times that are the same give or take.

good times therefore require one of two things.

1. A HARDCORE addiction to the track..>I'm talking min 2-4 days a month racing for a couple of years straight..>This will enable your bolt on mods plenty of time for finite test and tuning...and to hone your drive skills. My friends can drive the piss out of their cars, and that's why they go fast.

2. Boost and Heavy mods to make up for the lack of fine tuning and driver skill.

unless you fit into one of those two categories, which most of us don't, having a mark with gears and a converter and a tune with 13's just isn't gonna f'n happen for nearly all of us.

and what happens if you do get hardcore?? Well one friend has gone through at least 4 8.8 rebuilds over the past few years that I can count of, three different engine combo's, 4-5 different trannies, and countless other breakdowns from rockers to a billion clutches, broken 31 spline axles...you name it.
Click to expand...

And with all of that said, I'll shed an optimistic view here. With stickies, if I hit the track tomorrow, I'd be high 13s. I can almost guarantee that. I ran a 14.1 with stock Gen2 intake and 4.10s. I now have 4.30s and the Cobra intake with minor port work. I feel 2 tenths easy in the seat of my pants. I'm getting 3rd gear rubber that was never there before. It pulls harder, and feels faster the minute I left after the intake swap and even a touch quicker with the 4.30s. And FWIW, I've only been to the track twice in my entire life. I'm a noob. :)
 
the automatic with the et streets is the way to go...point, shoot, step on it. I've always had 5 speeds, so I'm hoping too for more consistent results in my mark
 
Well to do my cost analysis, I don't know if I will keep it less than $5K, but lets see.
  1. Engine is Free (Parts Car)
  2. "C" Heads $350
  3. Cobra Intake $250
  4. Manley Rods $300
  5. Machine Shop Labor $600
My list is still going.
 
v8only said:
the automatic with the et streets is the way to go...point, shoot, step on it. I've always had 5 speeds, so I'm hoping too for more consistent results in my mark
Click to expand...

Honestly, the bracket racing was almost more fun than just running the car down the track. And I agree. That's the wonderful part of an automatic with sticky tires. :D I won a trophy in the brackets and was loving the consistency out of the car. I ran up against my buddy who I went with, and wouldn't you know it, we both ran our best e/ts up against each other. :p

I was finally eliminated round 4 up against a Fox-body Mustang. I literally broke out by 1/100th:eek: and almost ran a perfect bracket time. Check it out:

YouTube - fun day rock falls raceway 011.mpg
 
GMAN said:
Well to do my cost analysis, I don't know if I will keep it less than $5K, but lets see.
  1. Engine is Free (Parts Car)
  2. "C" Heads $350
  3. Cobra Intake $250
  4. Manley Rods $300
  5. Machine Shop Labor $600
My list is still going.
Click to expand...

Used Manley Rods and Pistons on all 8 MOD engines I assembled. Same with Subaru engines now too :D
 
KStromberg said:
Honestly, the bracket racing was almost more fun than just running the car down the track. And I agree. That's the wonderful part of an automatic with sticky tires. :D I won a trophy in the brackets and was loving the consistency out of the car. I ran up against my buddy who I went with, and wouldn't you know it, we both ran our best e/ts up against each other. :p

I was finally eliminated round 4 up against a Fox-body Mustang. I literally broke out by 1/100th:eek: and almost ran a perfect bracket time. Check it out:
Click to expand...
Sometimes you have to give up the stripe to win.:shifty:

Was he past you? or did he push you out fender racing?
Hard to tell from the angle.
What was your RT? His ?
Did he hit his et?
A mark "so I am told" has a clear advantage in a fender race.
Good day at the track!!
Lots of fun to almost hit a semi final!
Nice first name too. :D
 
ford nut said:
Sometimes you have to give up the stripe to win.:shifty:

Was he past you? or did he push you out fender racing?
Hard to tell from the angle.
What was your RT? His ?
Did he hit his et?
A mark "so I am told" has a clear advantage in a fender race.
Good day at the track!!
Lots of fun to almost hit a semi final!
Nice first name too. :D
Click to expand...

I can't seem to find the timeslip with that info. I believe he ran a 13.7? He was definitely faster than I but I kept ahead of him at least up to the 1/8 mile mark. The lockup is what kills me at the end because it's too early, but good thing or I would have really broke out! lol He was slower than his dial, so he won by default when I broke out. Now, if I can get a non-rainy weekend here I'd like to get out there and pull his times myself. I was screwed this last weekend for getting out to the track and it looks like this weekend is going to be the second time. Oh well. It's the junior dragsters crap this weekend anyways and with that going on, you wait in line forever to run the damn car anyways. Now that the intake is on and the 4.30s are in, what I need to do is have the tune revised and get my Steeda pullies on before I even run it at the track. All of that may be just a waste anyways if I run it on the early-lockup tune.
 
Mine has the same problem. I've been told it should be turn off to protect the transmission anyway ??? I started turning it off but I have to turn it on at the end to keep from over reeving it. But doing so I get about 5 mph higher results.
 
Don Pfau said:
I started turning it off but I have to turn it on at the end to keep from over reeving it.
Click to expand...

If you are hitting the rev-limiter at the end of the track you need to raise the rev limiter, drop a notch in the gears or run a bigger tire, but you do not want to use overdrive with a 4R70W at WOT.
 
I've been thinking about changing the valve springs to new beehives just for insurance reasons but would that allow me to turn more rpm's safely ??? Any recommendations on the best place to get new valve springs ??? Plus I understand not getting my rods of ebay. Perfect place for any builder to unload rejects. But I'm looking for a good Forged rod lighter than the Manley H beams like in my Cobra. Anyone ??? heres an example http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en and then were to get the rods and pistons or a kit ??? Cast cranks good enough for my use.
 
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