04 Ls .. ETC fail mode
- Thread starter Asialee
- Start date
Yea, I miss that car.. The one I have now is Sliver, same rim an tires tho. I went from a 03 with 49,800 miles to a 04.. at the time when i bought it, it only had 18 k miles on it !!
Andrizzle
Dedicated LVC Member
Just drove my car ah 7 miles round trip to my local wally world, and coming home, driving at 30 mph.. wait for it....... ETC failmode .
I agree with Loud here, many dealers don't know how to properly check over the car.. I have a appointment on Tuesday morning to have it checked out.. Please wish me luck !!
for the record: I'm not a he
Pics
pagluy
Dedicated LVC Member
new code
As I went to go pick up my daughter from school today, lucky me, got not one but two ETC failmod
this time, the CEL did come on, so i took it by my local Autozone to have it checked out.. this time I have two codes.. P2107 , which i already knew of that one, but now it's giving me P2110 ?? Anyone know what that means ??
p.s. why is it when i take her to school in the morning, with no a/c on, i have no problems, this seems to happen more often when the a/c is on.. Also I can smell fuel in the car.. when i hit the gas peddle..
As I went to go pick up my daughter from school today, lucky me, got not one but two ETC failmod
this time, the CEL did come on, so i took it by my local Autozone to have it checked out.. this time I have two codes.. P2107 , which i already knew of that one, but now it's giving me P2110 ?? Anyone know what that means ??p.s. why is it when i take her to school in the morning, with no a/c on, i have no problems, this seems to happen more often when the a/c is on.. Also I can smell fuel in the car.. when i hit the gas peddle..
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
As I went to go pick up my daughter from school today, lucky me, got not one but two ETC failmod
p.s. why is it when i take her to school in the morning, with no a/c on, i have no problems, this seems to happen more often when the a/c is on.. Also I can smell fuel in the car.. when i hit the gas peddle..
Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM
It's not really an additional error, it's just a consequence of the P2107.
I'm going to do this today, switch #1 coil with # 4 coil..
now just to be clear on this, I shouldn't get ETC failmode anymore, but I would still have hesitation on acceleration correct ?? I want to try this before I take it to the dealer on Tuesday...
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, that the theory, but it does have a few shortcomings.
First, the #1 coil may be just as bad as the #4, so it might not change anything.
Second, it might not be the #4 coil that is causing the most electrical noise.
That said, I still think it's worth a try. One the plus side, bank 1 is slightly easier to work on than bank 2.
Update
Well I went ahead and switched out coil #1 for coil #4, drove it home, about 25 miles and no ETC failmode, and it drives 99 % better.. it has the power back .. it still is a bit slugish tho, but not nearly as bas as before, when i get on it to pass a car..
it's been a longggg day, hope you can understand what i'm saying !!
Well I went ahead and switched out coil #1 for coil #4, drove it home, about 25 miles and no ETC failmode, and it drives 99 % better.. it has the power back .. it still is a bit slugish tho, but not nearly as bas as before, when i get on it to pass a car..
it's been a longggg day, hope you can understand what i'm saying !!
I've already replaced coil #3.. I'm going to take it to the dealer in the morning, and have them diagnosis the problem, well stress test the coils I should say... I'll let you know
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's a loaded question. RF is pretty close to magic. We've found that the best solution (not surprisingly) is to minimize the RF generated. That's actually easier than trying to shield or filter it.
If you must shield and filter, then the normal solutions are to use shield cables (remember, connect the shield at one end only), shield enclosures, and ferrite cores on the cables at each end. Internally, small ceramic capacitors on each signal line helps, as long as the signal isn't too fast.
took my car to the dealership this morning, they say, I don't have any bad coils, only thing that seems to be wrong is I need a new battery ! One code did show up, P1000 .. They said it has nothing to do with the coils, its due to my battery being low.. that doesn't sound right to me..
I will admit tho, the care drives so much better since I switched my #1 coil for # 4.. no ETC fail mode at all.. Now what
I will admit tho, the care drives so much better since I switched my #1 coil for # 4.. no ETC fail mode at all.. Now what
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
i would ask them if they actually did the stress test or not, as i can imagine the chances of a coil bad enough to put the car into failsafe mode all the time, actually passing the test is pretty slim.
drive it around for a week or so and make sure that the ETC failsafe doesn't kick in again, and if it doesn't then i would say that you old #4 (currently #1) coil is about to fail, and should be replaced.
if you need to get a coil, call max, his number is to the right ------------------------>
drive it around for a week or so and make sure that the ETC failsafe doesn't kick in again, and if it doesn't then i would say that you old #4 (currently #1) coil is about to fail, and should be replaced.
if you need to get a coil, call max, his number is to the right ------------------------>
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
If the battery was original, then you were past due on replacing it.
It's a shame they won't look into the coils. There's a reason I won't go to the dealers that are five miles away, and instead drive to the one that is sixty miles away. Of the four or five that I've tried, it's the only one that works for me. You may need to find a better dealer.
It's possible that your handling of the coils has temporary "fixed" the bad one. It may be less grief to just replace them yourself, if the issue comes back.
It's a shame they won't look into the coils. There's a reason I won't go to the dealers that are five miles away, and instead drive to the one that is sixty miles away. Of the four or five that I've tried, it's the only one that works for me. You may need to find a better dealer.
It's possible that your handling of the coils has temporary "fixed" the bad one. It may be less grief to just replace them yourself, if the issue comes back.
Could I just get away with replacing #4, currently #1 ? like loud said ? I'll drive it for a week and let you guys know what happens.. So far I've put 100 miles on it and no ETC..
Max... lol
After reading everything here on this thread, i don't believe the battery has ANYTHING to do with the ETC.. I do however believe it's coil #4 , which in now coil #1.. So This weekend, I'm going to replace that coil, along with the battery.. knock on my hood, that it works
Now here's the deal breaker, since now Two of the coils have been replaced, is it far to say that the rest will go soon ??
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Of course, you can just do one. (You should always replace the plug when you replace the coil. In this case, you need to replace the #4 plug and the #1 plug.)
However, I would replace them all. The general experience here is that once one goes, the rest aren't too far behind. If it takes you too long to notice that the next one (and then the next after that and so on) is on the way out, your catalytic converters may get damaged. Those are expensive to replace.