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Hi guys, It's time for me to part with the car since I really don't drive it much, having two cars. I am asking a bit more in the Craigslist ad, but realistically I'm asking for about $1600. She runs great. Drivetrain-wise, only issue is that first-to-second shifts are a little firm...

Thomas, I just bought one from another member here for a bargain. He's also a little closer to me so I can get the part quicker. Thanks for offering up though! Just letting you know.

ah man... can you help out a little? I know most on eBay are around that much so I'm hoping I can get one cheaper on the forum :(

shipped to 32708? Thanks!!

well, the way I figure, if the Motorcraft parts still exist, get them. If not, go Chinese.

You guys are going to kill me but I didn't order the inner's. Two Motorcraft's will be at least an extra $70 so I only went with the Motorcraft outer's for now. I don't have a lot of income right now so I need to replace the stuff that needs dire attention, including the rear toe link control...

Don't be so Negative Nancy, Chris! I like your idea. After looking at the schematic, you're spot on. Yes siree. I want "partial" control of the air ride system - but I don't want to have to press buttons every time I load the car with something heavy or have passengers. The main point to...

Exactly - so that's why I think there's a way to fool the air ride computer to do this without buying an ASHAM8. In fact, I need to look at an ASHAM wiring diagram to see if it uses the wire I described earlier. Well, I want to avoid bottoming out when the the bags are still cold (especially...

So I want the car to stay the same height no matter what, where, when, how. I am going to sensor-lower it as well. Judging from the diagram below, all I'd have to do is cut #5 to the module won't know that the door is open/closed.. am I right? Or would I need to supply current to it at all...

errrrrr I might as well. Do they require a removal tool?

I've been tallying up all the front end parts I am going to buy (including Motorcraft SRB's) and am already over-budget. I'll be buying the outers tie rods for sure.

This may be the last thing to ever go bad, but when my car was randomly dying on me, it didn't matter if I was idling, slowing down, driving on highway, etc., the engine would go into an extreme lean condition where it wouldn't get it even run under normal throttle/idle. I wasn't getting any...

You're likely to get to yours before I do mine so let me know how it turns out, senor Alex.

thanks for all the good info!

Thanks friend! They look like a bear to replace though. I guess I'll have to do them when I do the shocks I will certainly do that. I need to change my shocks anyway so I might as well change it all!

I guess I'll have to check to see if there's play, particularly on the rear/passenger side. If I go over bumps no the driver side, the car doesn't really "jump".

So do you think all 97 LSC's use the same diameter?

Hi guys - so I am comparing part numbers from Moog listed in the thread vs on RockAuto and they are all almost different. Also, what is the proper "diameter" of my front swaybar on my 97 LSC? Seems there's a bunch of different sizes...

Hi guys, My car seems to float/bounce to the side a little after going over small road bumps, potholes and even thick road markings. Would worn rear shocks do this? I'd imagine it doesn't help having heavy Bullitt wheels that exaggerate the problem. The car feels like it does this only after...

do you have a habit of maybe not completely stopping the car before shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa?