cobra head swap and supercharger?

AVEY10

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what all usually goes into this.

would love to do this since i plan on buying another gen1 in another 6 months or so and using my current 95 as a parts car, so i will be rebuilding that engine.
 
To be able to give a helpful reply it would help to know your goals and budget ??? What Generation will the project car be. And what used or new parts you have and thier condition.
 
youll also need an intake,as the 99 up heads are different pattern, fuel rails ,injectors, those are the basics, as i looked into it as well as just switching to the 98 cobra intake.im not the expert on this, but the 03 heads require all new intake parts,and if you look at the frpp page, there are 2 compression ratios for s/c applications or n/a, im not sure if its the heads or the pistons, heads i believe.price wise you might be better off finding a complete 03 motor.
 
So ignoring the previous posts Ill assume you wanna just "bolt up" and 03/04 Heaton setup? Well here is what ya need:
99+ C heads. 03/04 is best but any C head will work (save for the FR500 which isnt REALLY a C head but lets not go there) $300 for early heads, $1000+ for latter heads)
03/04 Eaton ($200ish)
03/04 Timing cover ($150)
03/04 Lower heat exchanger/plenum ($400-500)
03/04 bridge pulley ($150)
03/04 alternator ($150)
03/04 crank pulley and brace ($180)
03/04 crossover tube ($50)
03/04 intake tube ($10-$60)
39+ lb injectors ($200)
90MM MAF (Lightning) ($75)
Focus SVT fuel pump ($80)
Damn good tuner ($650)
Spare $3500 for when you window the block. Pushing anything past 400rwp on stock internals and you are asking for an oil-down.
 
Thanks laser.

Now whats the difference between the older and newer heads? And would the stock crank work?
 
The stock crank will work and can hold 700ish HP before they snap. Rods and pistons go around 420ish (450ish on stick cars like B head Cobras) because they cant handle the boost. ARP bolts are a must and precision tolerences on the berings.

Late Continental, 99/01 Cobras have the "lesser" head. Its more to do with port volume and velocity. They are both better on 03/04 heads. As for the Mach1 heads and Marauder heads I am not sure as I havent looked into which version they have.


Almost forgot, also need the head cooling mod cause an Eaton heats the motor up and you can get head tick on the drivers head on #7 & #8 due to a hot spot. The LDC kit allows for water to crossover the back of the motor properly.
 
yea i seen you mentioned the upgrade on another thread.

now what would be your opinion, and everyone elses as on cost. i have a nice budget to work with but just curious as to if going with the c head and termi sc, vortch sc, kb sc, or a turbo would be more effecient, as in cost vs horsepower and torque gains. id love to have a turbo laid out but this is all still to be decided and opinioned.
 
Best bang for buck is a centri. B heads love boost. There is a D1SC kit with injectors, MAF, intercooler andeverything needed to slap in your car for $2500 right now on SVTP.
 
Thats why I wanted to know his budget. I believe unless you have money to burn there is nothing wrong with the stock heads with a blower.
 
Thats why I wanted to know his budget. I believe unless you have money to burn there is nothing wrong with the stock heads with a blower.

could be between $5K or 10K it all depends on how i end up buying a third gen mountaineer either low or high milage, but that will be getting a monster audio setup.
 
could be between $5K or 10K it all depends on how i end up buying a third gen mountaineer either low or high milage, but that will be getting a monster audio setup.

I don't know how old you are but I thought i'd try to save you some money and your hearing forget the huge stereo system. All the big bass and treble will catch up with you.
 
I don't know how old you are but I thought i'd try to save you some money and your hearing forget the huge stereo system. All the big bass and treble will catch up with you.

8 days and ill be 20. the current set up i have i play it all the time because its loud but not outrageously loud, the next one will be so it wont be played all the time, mainly when im at competing.
 
Avey- You are going to need to pop a couple G's into support items such as rear gears, exhaust, drive shaft, trans mods and new TC. Then you can start on suspension upgrades and maintenance issues, another 2 G's. You will find that if you do all your own work it will surely be very difficult to bring a Posi SC project in at 10 grand. In the end it is your ride and you have to decide how much you want to spend on it, but I can tell you from personal experience that you will be spending a lot of money, and you may not have the stomach for it based on how old these cars are, and how low a price they sell for.
 
Avey- You are going to need to pop a couple G's into support items such as rear gears, exhaust, drive shaft, trans mods and new TC. Then you can start on suspension upgrades and maintenance issues, another 2 G's. You will find that if you do all your own work it will surely be very difficult to bring a Posi SC project in at 10 grand. In the end it is your ride and you have to decide how much you want to spend on it, but I can tell you from personal experience that you will be spending a lot of money, and you may not have the stomach for it based on how old these cars are, and how low a price they sell for.
+1

I did a non-intercooled KB 2.2 twin screw on B heads. Blower was $2500 then supporting fuel/intake/tune mods were another $1800ish but then also needed to have the cars chasis, suspension and brakes be able to handle the new power as well as hook it up on the street. That was another $2800ish. So thats a little over $7000 and I did most of the work.... well SVO did the gears and 70% of the blower install but we were friends at the time so he gave me a killer deal on labor.

So yeah, need serious coin to properly do it. Just slapping a blower in is only a small part of what the car needs. Its brakes suck as is and you wanna add 60% more power. Chasis flexes and suspension flexes like crazy and more power will make the car unsafe and can break the chasis so you NEED the supporting mods. Then the car already spins its tires so you NEED that LSD and wider tires..... ...... gawd I miss my white Mark. :(
 
Yes it always cost more than planned. When I was younger I had several unfinished projects sold for far less than I had in them for this reason.
 
They don't gotta be morons, there are about 3 good reasons to do a mod motor build without boost. One is if they want to race in a specific class that has rules that exclude forced induction, another is that they want to stay N/A so they can say they're still N/A when they lose to cars with boost, and the third is... ...
 
way too much compression for the street. i just had heads done with port job and new springs, putting comp cams in.should be done next week thats expensive by itself.
 
Probably. There are morons everywhere...
+1

If its a street car then you would be a moron to do that..... unless you dont mind spending $7 a gallon for some Sunco fuel ALL THE DAMN TIME. Well I guess you could also run E85 but then you would need 42lb+ injectors and get around 12MPG.

If going NA then 11:1 is about as high as you want. 9.5:1 with low boost and good forged internals. 8.8:1 for normal boost levels (12-14). and 8.5:1 or less if you wanna run some serious boost.

Watched Reinhart Racing build a Teksid high comp C head motor. 11:1 with hillborn style injection and custom cams. Motor made 471 NA HP on the dyno. Thats a $4800 investment.

Just as an example. I know a dude (car just was sold) running a completly stock 03/04 motor (8.5:1 CR). Only mods were CAI, Injectors (80lb), catback (stock manifolds and all four cats), big ass fuel pumps for E85 and a Whipple 2.3 running 23psi. Car made 727RWHP! :eek: Thats a $6000 investment. Nets 12MPG

Another guy running the higher comp Aluminator crate motor (forget compression ratio)with a Whipple 3.4 and fuel mods. All else stock. On 14 psi he made 660rwhp and when cranking it to 19psi made over 770rwhp. Thats a $12,000 investment. Nets 15MPG

My Mark with a 2.2L KB blower, 255 pump, 42lb injectors, stock manifolds and cats with Borla catback and no intercooler and stock internals made 331rwhp with 7.2psi and 9* of timing. Was a near $7000 investment and did 20MPG. Car did make 389rwhp at 13PSI but IATs were through the roof cause no intercooler.

My Cobra all I did was put a smaller SC pulley on it, CAI, long tubes, H-pipe, Catback larger MAF and a tune and made 474 RWHP. Still got 21MPG on the highway too. Was a $2000 investment.

Cobra I just built, 99 with C heads I did an Eaton swap on. Stock boost (about 8psi) and no mufflers. Supercar pump but everything else was all stock 03/04 blower parts. Car made 427 rwhp and gets about 15mpg. Total cost was $3500 but I used up many contacts to locate the parts.

So there are hundreds of ways to make power. Gotta figure budget and talent.
 
+1



So there are hundreds of ways to make power. Gotta figure budget and talent.

Well put Bill!
What ever you think its going to cost; its going to be more.
Studs/Bolts alone are going to be $600+ and thats on the low side.
Pistons!... lol... compression and boost.. teflon/ceramic coated 4v relief at 11:1 and upgraded pins/rings $1300+
Crank.. take your pick.. cams.. you're buying 4.. and 32 of everything else for the top end. windage tray, chains, guides, tensioners, forged oil pump gears, billit rear plate, machine work, injectors, rails, pumps, lines to support E85 or race fuel if you use it.. blah blah blah blah..

Oh yah.. multi fuel tune to run the E85 to support boost with compression and 93.. $600+ for sure
Then the SC $2200 on up.
 
With the c- head could just use a 01 cobra intake or mach one intake till you get more funds for the blower
 

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