Setting up Audio System with Factory head unit

someone post a picture of a clean looking black head unit with factory colored backlit buttons

you can't, they are all ugly with ridiculous animations and colors
 
IDK what kind of infinity subs you are checking out are but you couldn't pay me to run a MTX amp. Also if you are keeping the stock deck and amp then I wouldn't get a pair of 12" subs. They will way overpower your main speakers. Sub location is paramount on our cars too. I have seen a couple Boston G5 10" subs on ebay for under $100. Jeremy will confirm for you that my single G5 kicks freakin arse. Then what I would buy is an older (or new) Rockford mono block in the 300w power range. They have on board hi/lo converters and are better then any outboard unit you can get. Also they should be around $80 used or under $200 new and really for that price you cant beat a Rockford..... hell even at triple the price! :lol:
Since you said you like rock I would just do a small (.5-.75) sealed box in the passenger rear corner facing the CD changer. It will give the best bass response.

As for wiring it up....... if you are gonna do it then I would suggest to do it this way. Go to Walmart and get one of the cheap Ford Premium stereo wire harnesses. You wont use it so you can return it but you will use it to figure out what wires are what. Pull the deck out and figure out what wires on the larger plug on the new harness match the stock plug. You want the two greens and two violets wires on the new plug and see what pins they are on the stock plug. You will cut those wires and then splice in some long speaker wire and run it to the amp in the back. So basically you will hook a butt splice on the wires you cut off the harness and on the other end twist the new speaker wire together with the the other side of the wire you just cut and then crimp that in to the other side of the butt splice connector.
Thats the easiest way for someone who does not know the factory color wires to hook in an aftermarket sub amp. This will allow you to use the fader for sub level control as well. Also you want to look at the solid blue wire on the new harness and locate that pin location on the stock harness. Thats your remote turn on and will allow you turn the new amp off with the deck.
Now you can throw the new harness back in its bag and return it. :D


As for the CD changer. The older 10 discs wont read most CD-Rs and all CD-RWs but the latter ones will. The cheapest ones to get are out of the 97-02 Expeditions and Explorers. They will play CD-Rs just fine BUT have the suspension springs in the wrong place. You take the side covers off the changer and you will see a small spring thats hooked to the electronics. 90* from where that spring hooks on the CD changers chassis you will see a spot where that spring would go for a horizontal install. You just have to move the spring to that spot and it will work fine.

Also they will never play a CD-R that is MP3 files. It has to be standard size recordings so it can only be one album. Our stereos don't have MP3 decompression so they cant read the discs.

Hope it helps.


Yeah I made them standard .wav files - and thanks for all the info - this well definetely help.

I bought the subs just cause it was a good deal for the setup - I really only intend for it to be for the time being while I find something ideal, or if it sounds decent enough Ill leave it there.. I mean, for the price I couldnt go wrong!

I would much rather have 1 10 inch then 2 12s thumping around, but what can you do... Id also like to custom mount the sub in the seat like my gf's mom eclipse has stock! That would be sick!
 
keep the amp,sell the infinity's and get 1 sealed 12..
Ugh. I would do the opposite. Keep the subs, build a box and sell the amp. MTX amps are complete garbage now! Want proof? Open any Coustic amp and compare it to the same size MTX. They have the same guts. MTX amps have sucked for about 6 years now where as they used to be really nice amps.




Anyway OP, I didnt realize you already bought the subs. I would build a box to fit under the rear deck and have the subs fire to the rear of the trunk. Again since you like rock I would keep it sealed. These subs need a lot of airspace so its gonna need to be 2.5 cubic feet total air space. You could fudge it down just a little and they will be a bit tighter.
For an amp I would still get a Rockford but closer to the 500w range.
This one would do fine:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...iewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item5888a6fb08

But this one would be perfect and allow you to fine tune the subs. That way you can drop the bass on the deck thus allowing the door speakers to get louder and then dial in your bass boost on the controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...iewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item19bdd01adc

That amp would allow you to get the most from those subs.
 
Ugh. I would do the opposite. Keep the subs, build a box and sell the amp. MTX amps are complete garbage now! Want proof? Open any Coustic amp and compare it to the same size MTX. They have the same guts. MTX amps have sucked for about 6 years now where as they used to be really nice amps.




Anyway OP, I didnt realize you already bought the subs. I would build a box to fit under the rear deck and have the subs fire to the rear of the trunk. Again since you like rock I would keep it sealed. These subs need a lot of airspace so its gonna need to be 2.5 cubic feet total air space. You could fudge it down just a little and they will be a bit tighter.
For an amp I would still get a Rockford but closer to the 500w range.
This one would do fine:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...iewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item5888a6fb08

But this one would be perfect and allow you to fine tune the subs. That way you can drop the bass on the deck thus allowing the door speakers to get louder and then dial in your bass boost on the controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...iewItem&pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item19bdd01adc

That amp would allow you to get the most from those subs.

many poeple would say the same about newer fosgates...

i modded my 1501d thunder to run at .67ohms and up to 16 volts giving out 2000+rms..Thing never even got warm.. Every brand has its good and bad.
 
Also you want to look at the solid blue wire on the new harness and locate that pin location on the stock harness. Thats your remote turn on and will allow you turn the new amp off with the deck.
i tried exactly this when i first got the car because i wanted to use the changer, but the factory remote was only V and the amp i had was only 12, so i said :q:q:q:q it and aftermarket i went
MT amps have sucked for about 6 years now where as they used to be really nice amps.

whew :D glad mine are prob 20 i gotta find the birthing sheets and see but id say late 80's early 90's
 
many poeple would say the same about newer fosgates...

i modded my 1501d thunder to run at .67ohms and up to 16 volts giving out 2000+rms..Thing never even got warm.. Every brand has its good and bad.
People have bad mouthed RF since the begining of time and they have had a couple years of bad amps. I wouldnt get a Prime series as they suck and I wouldnt get any of the Punch level 4 channels but their Power series is still solid and their Punch series 2 channels and mono blocks are still good. Their mono blocks are some of the most efficient in the buisiness.

Now on to your mod. What exactly did you do to mod your amp to unregulate its power rail and increase the DC of the FETs?
i tried exactly this when i first got the car because i wanted to use the changer, but the factory remote was only V and the amp i had was only 12, so i said :q:q:q:q it and aftermarket i went


whew :D glad mine are prob 20 i gotta find the birthing sheets and see but id say late 80's early 90's

Yeah when their Thunder and Black Gold was re-introduced in the early 90's they made some great great amps. Very basic but uber clean and put out double their ratings. The amps were just solid black bricks with very basic x-overs and bass eq's. I had a 4300 and 2300 that were both built for MTX competition cars. They had .5% tolerence components and MOSFETs that could pass double the original current over the regular production ones so they really really slammed! I bridged the 4-channel to drive my OZ Audio and Infinity EMIT (old rectangle ribbons, not the current BS) and was showing 490 watts RMS per channel! :eek: With the 2300 driving some Phoenix Gold CF 10" subs and I clocked 143.2 db which was insaine for the mid 90's.

Anyway, thats when some guys from Rockford went over to MTX with Rockfords next gen specs and made the amps.
Now MTX is not about purity like they were and became soley a profit machine.

There are very few purist companies left. Even some of the new Boston components are crap. All thats left for all out quality is Rainbow, Focal, McIntosh, Butler, some MMats, upper model JL, Nakamichi and some others. Used to be about being the best, now its about being the biggest. :(

Its a shame cause really people are loosing out. Sure there is a crap ton of DECIENT sounding stuff out and with this age of iPods and computer speakers and speaker sets that make your phone a boom box has gotten people used to mediocre sound.

Man, you take some kids iPod and load it into an old NAD preamp running through an Audio Controll 1/3 octave EQ into a McIntosh real tube amp driving a set of Beta IRS-V speakers and they will be blown away! Can hear every nuance in the music, can hear the lead singer taking a breath, a guitarists pick striking the strings, the drummers stick accidentially hitting the rim of the drum during a drum strike....... sorry, love music and love it when it sounds exactly how it is supposed to.
 
I had a 4300 and 2300 that were both built for MTX competition cars. They had .5% tolerence components and MOSFETs that could pass double the original current over the regular production ones so they really really slammed!

lol i think that might be exactly what im runnin now to my (dont laugh) pioneer 10's had the mtx subs too but they blew. my old pio's just keep on thumping
 
People have bad mouthed RF since the begining of time and they have had a couple years of bad amps. I wouldnt get a Prime series as they suck and I wouldnt get any of the Punch level 4 channels but their Power series is still solid and their Punch series 2 channels and mono blocks are still good. Their mono blocks are some of the most efficient in the buisiness.

Now on to your mod. What exactly did you do to mod your amp to unregulate its power rail and increase the DC of the FETs?

Yeah when their Thunder and Black Gold was re-introduced in the early 90's they made some great great amps. Very basic but uber clean and put out double their ratings. The amps were just solid black bricks with very basic x-overs and bass eq's. I had a 4300 and 2300 that were both built for MTX competition cars. They had .5% tolerence components and MOSFETs that could pass double the original current over the regular production ones so they really really slammed! I bridged the 4-channel to drive my OZ Audio and Infinity EMIT (old rectangle ribbons, not the current BS) and was showing 490 watts RMS per channel! :eek: With the 2300 driving some Phoenix Gold CF 10" subs and I clocked 143.2 db which was insaine for the mid 90's.

Anyway, thats when some guys from Rockford went over to MTX with Rockfords next gen specs and made the amps.
Now MTX is not about purity like they were and became soley a profit machine.

There are very few purist companies left. Even some of the new Boston components are crap. All thats left for all out quality is Rainbow, Focal, McIntosh, Butler, some MMats, upper model JL, Nakamichi and some others. Used to be about being the best, now its about being the biggest. :(

Its a shame cause really people are loosing out. Sure there is a crap ton of DECIENT sounding stuff out and with this age of iPods and computer speakers and speaker sets that make your phone a boom box has gotten people used to mediocre sound.

Man, you take some kids iPod and load it into an old NAD preamp running through an Audio Controll 1/3 octave EQ into a McIntosh real tube amp driving a set of Beta IRS-V speakers and they will be blown away! Can hear every nuance in the music, can hear the lead singer taking a breath, a guitarists pick striking the strings, the drummers stick accidentially hitting the rim of the drum during a drum strike....... sorry, love music and love it when it sounds exactly how it is supposed to.

""They dont do it from the factory because the chip you remove is the part of the protection circuitry that shuts the amp down if it see's a load below 2 ohms (ie dead short) so when modded you have to be careful not to touch the speaker leads together while the amp is on, or you will short it out. And yes the mod will allow up to 18.5 dc volts and down as low as you feel comfortable on impedance... I wouldnt suggest any lower than .5 for daily..q 240 is located in the south west quadrant of the amp... you have to be careful to not remove d240 that is right beside it. Also, the compression circuit is a little white button next to the rca end of the amp. It needs to be pushed in the "out" position"
 
Or if money was no object.
I give you the Transmission Audio’s Ultimate. These speakers are so powerful they will knock a girls clothes off! At $2,000,000 a set the better! :lol:

Each speaker is over 8' tall.


810_Ultimate_layout_810_610x230.jpg
 
""They dont do it from the factory because the chip you remove is the part of the protection circuitry that shuts the amp down if it see's a load below 2 ohms (ie dead short) so when modded you have to be careful not to touch the speaker leads together while the amp is on, or you will short it out. And yes the mod will allow up to 18.5 dc volts and down as low as you feel comfortable on impedance... I wouldnt suggest any lower than .5 for daily..q 240 is located in the south west quadrant of the amp... you have to be careful to not remove d240 that is right beside it. Also, the compression circuit is a little white button next to the rca end of the amp. It needs to be pushed in the "out" position"
A link to this mod would be nice.

I have modded amps before but new amps use a control chip for most of the power regulation and its too integrated.

In older systems I would put in a larger muf caps through out the rail and usually with a higher voltage rating so I didn't make the stock caps leak on transiate peaks when really pushing the amp past its stock power levels. But then current comes into play big time and the stock FETs just will burst into flames trying to turn on and off that fast while pushing a sub 2ohm load. So to correct that I would swap the FETs out to a higher capacity version to handle the load. Still caused thermal issues as all of MTX heat sinks are about perfectly sized to their power output yet still can make carpet burst into flames (as I have done more then once) cause they get so hot. So when you drop one below 1 ohm and push it that hard..... do you have a cryo cooling setup on it or what?

Sorry, always like to learn new ways to do stuff and if what you found works better then the old way I did it I am ready to make a change.

Also how did you test the output to confirm over 2000 watts RMS? I ask because the amp should do right at 2000 rms at a 1 ohm load so if thats where it is at your current load then that would indicate the amp is running just over the FETs capacity.......... which would raise the BS flag on your "not even warm" comment. With a power supply set up like that the amp would be "warm" just sitting there at idle. Crank it up and it would make enough heat to warm the entire cabin of the car if a fan blew across it.
 

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