Setting up Audio System with Factory head unit

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BodyByAAS

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Ok - so Im a rookie when it comes to car audio, but I want to set up a decent system with my stock headunit since I dont want to alter the interior of the car and there is nothing I hate more then some tacky aftermarket headunit!

I def need to replace the stock door speakers since one shorted out, and might as well redo the rear 6X9's or whatever they are (haven't checked) - Im guessing I need to custom drill and mold the door speakers and tweeters in, and probably the same with the rear. Im guessing I can just rewire to a new amp, and have another amp powering the subs - run a power cable to the battery and hope for the best?

Ahh here in lies the problem.. either my CD changer sucks and doesnt read CD-R's, or it just sucks and doesnt play at all cause 1/2 the time it says NO CD, and the other 1/2 he lists a track and plays nothing... So...

Any suggestions?? ANyone have photos of what they have done?
 
How much are you willing to spend on a new system? Aftermarket radios can look factory installed is if you get the correct kit for you car. What year is your car? These days you can get one amp that will power your whole system. Now I don't know what your expectation are for you system, competition etc but that will help other members out when recommending products.
 
LeaSr77 said:
How much are you willing to spend on a new system? Aftermarket radios can look factory installed is if you get the correct kit for you car. What year is your car? These days you can get one amp that will power your whole system. Now I don't know what your expectation are for you system, competition etc but that will help other members out when recommending products.
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Basically I dont want to spend a whole lot - was gonna grab some used audiobahn subs off ebay - maybe just 1 10inch for rock - nothing crazy, just want nice quality sound while cruising down the highway.
 
The factory system has it limits.
If you want good sound you have to start from scratch and gut and re-wire the whole mess.
Factory ford speaker is 6x8 or 5x7.
With a little work Component Systems can be installed.
 
If you're on this forum, this means you really love your Mark. Don't skimp on the audio. The is the key most important thing to your driving enjoyability. So many nice systems out there reasonably priced.
 
i'd keep the factory unit. keep the stock jbl amp and replace the blown speaker. Get a PAC line out converter (wich taps into the jbl speaker wires before the amp) so that you can add a amp and sub...As listed in my sig i have 3 12's and 1500rms and my int speakers are holding up just fine...Could use abit more highs though. I just wanted a more simple setup in this car compared to my past cars.

The only time i would change the h/u is if i got a good deal on a double din touchscreen/nav unit.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
i'd keep the factory unit. keep the stock jbl amp and replace the blown speaker. Get a PAC line out converter (wich taps into the jbl speaker wires before the amp) so that you can add a amp and sub...As listed in my sig i have 3 12's and 1500rms and my int speakers are holding up just fine...Could use abit more highs though. I just wanted a more simple setup in this car compared to my past cars.

The only time i would change the h/u is if i got a good deal on a double din touchscreen/nav unit.
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this was my plan - but I need a CD changer or something - they must be cheap these days i'd imagine. I wish there was a way to hook the ipod up to the factory HU =/
 
yea, if you want to use a ipod w/ it i think your sol. Depending on how much you want to spend. get a cheaper/used double din w/ a ipod port.
 
I dont know what year Mark you have so I will assume a second gen.

If you are replacing the speakers then the amp needs to go too. The factory setup has the speakers tuned to the amp and aftermarket just dont sound right with the stock amp. You can make a DD deck fit in the opening just fine and MANY of us on here have done it. If you dont want to buy an amp then just run the new speakers off of the new deck by running new speaker wires to the speakers. The sound will be much better.

Now if you also cant afford an amp and sub then you would be better off with 6x8 speakers, preferably components. The oval cone will give more bass response. If you are gonna get a sub then get the best 6.5" component set you can afford and some adapter rings. Infinity Kappa or Refrence is a great inexpensive setup.

For subs, again, its how much you can spend but try and stick with the better stuff. Look at Infinity, Boston, JL, Rockford, Focal, Rainbow or the like.
 
LaserSVT said:
I dont know what year Mark you have so I will assume a second gen.

If you are replacing the speakers then the amp needs to go too. The factory setup has the speakers tuned to the amp and aftermarket just dont sound right with the stock amp. You can make a DD deck fit in the opening just fine and MANY of us on here have done it. If you dont want to buy an amp then just run the new speakers off of the new deck by running new speaker wires to the speakers. The sound will be much better.

Now if you also cant afford an amp and sub then you would be better off with 6x8 speakers, preferably components. The oval cone will give more bass response. If you are gonna get a sub then get the best 6.5" component set you can afford and some adapter rings. Infinity Kappa or Refrence is a great inexpensive setup.

For subs, again, its how much you can spend but try and stick with the better stuff. Look at Infinity, Boston, JL, Rockford, Focal, Rainbow or the like.
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Thanks Laser - I dotn want to go all out with an audio system that cost more then the car LOL - Plus, when parking in Miami - it doesnt matter how much of an alarm you ahve or what have you, these crackheads will break in, steal ur **** and if they cant get it out, will bring a flatbed and steal the whole car!

My friend's buddy had his HVAC work truck stolen since all the equiptment in it was extremely valuable.. He came out of Home Depot and BAM ... Truck gone. I bet Jorge down the street opned up shop the very next day :D


I basically just want to leave the head unit, swap the changer if it has a problem (still trying to figure out if its supposed to read CD-R's) MAYBE redo the back speakers, but def throw one small 400-500watt RMS 10inch for some tight base to go along with my rock music... thats all I want... is that 2 much to ask?


EDIT: I thought audiobahn was supposed to be good? My buddy had two 12inch aluminum cone subs at 1200watts RMS EACH pounding in his 2002 SS Camaro and man.. it was like.. Heart stopping
 
higher end audiobahns arent that bad...There more for the flash factor then anything. If you want more for your money buy used...i've never had a problem..Check out the classifieds on caraudio.com and obviously ebay.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
higher end audiobahns arent that bad...There more for the flash factor then anything. If you want more for your money buy used...i've never had a problem..Check out the classifieds on caraudio.com and obviously ebay.
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Im bidding right now on 2 Infinity 12inches - I wanted 10's but whatever. - they come with a MTX 801D Amp, 1.0 Farad Cap and enclosure. Minus the $88 dollar shipping its going for 56 bucks - sounds like a deal to me.. Not sure the RMS rating of the Subs, but Infinity's have always been good
 
send me a link, i'll let ya no if its any good and if its worth what your bidding. i know the amp is good as i had its older brother the 1501d. just want to make sure the subs can be wired to be 2 ohm stable to get the most out of the amp.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
send me a link, i'll let ya no if its any good and if its worth what your bidding. i know the amp is good as i had its older brother the 1501d. just want to make sure the subs can be wired to be 2 ohm stable to get the most out of the amp.
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Sent! Thanks man.. I dont know SHIIT about SHIIT when it comes to this stuff
 
well from the looks of it the subs come in 2 or 8 ohm.. The amp puts out 800 rms at 2 ohm and 250rms at 4 ohm.. If they are 2 ohm they will wire down to 1 ohm.(the amp cant handle that) If 8 ohm they will wire down to 4 ohm...Your only choice is to run at 4 ohm wich means they will be underpowered. Though they will prob get 325-350rms at 4ohm as mtx's are abit underrated. Or you can run just 1 of them at 2ohm.. Seeing as how there ported will make up for them being abit underpowered...I'd try the pair first and then just try 1. see what ya like better..
 
sbcaprice305 said:
well from the looks of it the subs come in 2 or 8 ohm.. The amp puts out 800 rms at 2 ohm and 250rms at 4 ohm.. If they are 2 ohm they will wire down to 1 ohm.(the amp cant handle that) If 8 ohm they will wire down to 4 ohm...Your only choice is to run at 4 ohm wich means they will be underpowered. Though they will prob get 325-350rms at 4ohm as mtx's are abit underrated. Or you can run just 1 of them at 2ohm.. Seeing as how there ported will make up for them being abit underpowered...I'd try the pair first and then just try 1. see what ya like better..
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Hmmm.. or I could sell the Amp for 50 bucks, offset the cost of the shipping, and Buy a new one?? :)

What am I looking for in a new amp now? something around 400RMS @ 400OHM?
 
5-800rms @ 1 ohm if you keep the subs

or find

2 subs that are dual 4 ohm wired in parallel to get it to 2 ohm if you keep the amp

If i had the money i'd buy it for 50...You can get more then that. They go for $100-150. i would sell the subs and keep the amp imho.

check out this site..it will help you understand how to wire the subs right to get the most out of them

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=145
 
sbcaprice305 said:
5-800rms @ 1 ohm

If i had the money i'd buy it for 50...You can get more then that. They go for $100-150. i would sell the subs and keep the amp imho.
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Im so confused.... =/ can you explain?

I could probably sell the whole bundle for like 250 though huh?
 
if you keep the subs and sell the amp, look for a amp that puts out between 5-800rms @1ohm.

Also re-read my last post i edited it
 
IDK what kind of infinity subs you are checking out are but you couldn't pay me to run a MTX amp. Also if you are keeping the stock deck and amp then I wouldn't get a pair of 12" subs. They will way overpower your main speakers. Sub location is paramount on our cars too. I have seen a couple Boston G5 10" subs on ebay for under $100. Jeremy will confirm for you that my single G5 kicks freakin arse. Then what I would buy is an older (or new) Rockford mono block in the 300w power range. They have on board hi/lo converters and are better then any outboard unit you can get. Also they should be around $80 used or under $200 new and really for that price you cant beat a Rockford..... hell even at triple the price! :lol:
Since you said you like rock I would just do a small (.5-.75) sealed box in the passenger rear corner facing the CD changer. It will give the best bass response.

As for wiring it up....... if you are gonna do it then I would suggest to do it this way. Go to Walmart and get one of the cheap Ford Premium stereo wire harnesses. You wont use it so you can return it but you will use it to figure out what wires are what. Pull the deck out and figure out what wires on the larger plug on the new harness match the stock plug. You want the two greens and two violets wires on the new plug and see what pins they are on the stock plug. You will cut those wires and then splice in some long speaker wire and run it to the amp in the back. So basically you will hook a butt splice on the wires you cut off the harness and on the other end twist the new speaker wire together with the the other side of the wire you just cut and then crimp that in to the other side of the butt splice connector.
Thats the easiest way for someone who does not know the factory color wires to hook in an aftermarket sub amp. This will allow you to use the fader for sub level control as well. Also you want to look at the solid blue wire on the new harness and locate that pin location on the stock harness. Thats your remote turn on and will allow you turn the new amp off with the deck.
Now you can throw the new harness back in its bag and return it. :D


As for the CD changer. The older 10 discs wont read most CD-Rs and all CD-RWs but the latter ones will. The cheapest ones to get are out of the 97-02 Expeditions and Explorers. They will play CD-Rs just fine BUT have the suspension springs in the wrong place. You take the side covers off the changer and you will see a small spring thats hooked to the electronics. 90* from where that spring hooks on the CD changers chassis you will see a spot where that spring would go for a horizontal install. You just have to move the spring to that spot and it will work fine.

Also they will never play a CD-R that is MP3 files. It has to be standard size recordings so it can only be one album. Our stereos don't have MP3 decompression so they cant read the discs.

Hope it helps.
 
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