Front suspension pictures and questions

ripped camel

ripped camel

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When my car was up on jackstands I took pics of the front suspension. Jamie pointed out that front strut rod bushings were new on one side and bad on the other. He also pointed out the ball bearing boot was torn and bad on the passenger side. I think in one of the pics something else seems to be missing a bushing entirely but don't know.

I was also curious if I bought a whole new control arm I know it comes with a new ball joint, but does that come with new strut rod bushings as well or is that separate?

Here's the pics. Let me know what you all see.

P4240762.gif


P4240761.gif


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Also I found my cross-member brace has one bad bushing/mount. Could that have caused the clunking I would feel sometimes?

P4240755.gif


P4240754.gif
 
Control arm will come with strut bushing and all. Just be sure to start spraying it all down with pb a couple days before hand.
 
I think there is some confusion as to what/where the strut rod bushings are. In the first picture posted by the OP, the strut rod is the piece running horizontally to the right through the LCA. Those bushings DO NOT come with a LCA assembly. The bushings for the bolt that connects the airbag/strut to the LCA DO come with the LCA.

To recap:
1. Bushings in the upper right corner of photo - included with LCA.
2. Bushings in center of photo - not incl. with LCA.
 
Ok. If you look at the first picture towards the right corner it looks as if there is a missing bushing there. Then the pic below that looks to be missing a bushing in the same place. Is that normal?
 
ripped camel said:
Ok. If you look at the first picture towards the right corner it looks as if there is a missing bushing there. Then the pic below that looks to be missing a bushing in the same place. Is that normal?
Click to expand...

no thats how those bushings look (the lower shock mount) if they wernt there then it would make a hell of alot of noise
 
The upper right is supposed to look like that chicken? Shouldn't it have a bushing between it like the strut rod below it does?

It also looks like the top picture strut rod bushing is in good shape and done correctly, however it looks like the strut rod bushing in the second pictures was bolted on backwards (the bowl shaped adapter that goes between the bolt and bushing is flipped the wrong way).
 
ripped camel said:
The upper right is supposed to look like that chicken? Shouldn't it have a bushing between it like the strut rod below it does?

It also looks like the top picture strut rod bushing is in good shape and done correctly, however it looks like the strut rod bushing in the second pictures was bolted on backwards (the bowl shaped adapter that goes between the bolt and bushing is flipped the wrong way).
Click to expand...

ill make this easy the bushing is contained in the arm all you see is the sleeve that contacts the shock

P4240761.jpg
 
I was referring to the bushing that the strut is connected to. I call those bushings trailing arm bushings and no they do not come with it.
 
chicken said:
ill make this easy the bushing is contained in the arm all you see is the sleeve that contacts the shock
Click to expand...

Thanks I don't know how to do that with pictures which is why I tried to explain it. Good to know that part is right.

twinbopilot said:
Good catch! Yes, that will definitely give you some issues but its easy to correct.
Click to expand...

Easy is always good :D
 
just have jamie fix whats wrong because you need a hammer to change the lca and we all know where that will get ya
 
Just an FYI.

The strut rod to LCA bushings installed in the first pic (circled in red) appear to be Ford parts (with the bowl shaped washers installed correctly, BTW) and the strut rod to LCA bushings in the second pic (circled in green) appear to be an aftermarket part. If you buy replacement Ford bushings (which you should), then you're going to have to find a couple of the bowl shaped washers, as they do not come with the new bushings.

P4240761.jpg


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Strutrodbushings.jpg
 
I PB blasted my LCA very thoroughly the day before I changed it. I went into the job expecting all sorts of headaches but I was pleasantly surprised with the ease of the removal. Pay Jamie if you want, but its not as bad as it looks, especially if you already own the tools to do it.
 
twinbopilot said:
I PB blasted my LCA very thoroughly the day before I changed it. I went into the job expecting all sorts of headaches but I was pleasantly surprised with the ease of the removal. Pay Jamie if you want, but its not as bad as it looks, especially if you already own the tools to do it.
Click to expand...

Yea but Ripped Camel only has one tool A BFH !!!...:eek::eek: he is very experianced with it though...:D:D
 
he can reuse the washers, those look fine, but if your stuff is all apart, why not just replace all of it anyway?...and yes, please just pay Jamie to do it.. if he wants to

and i know youre kinda strapped for cash, and i dont want to get all in your buisiness and what-not, but 2 motor R&Rs, plus all the susspension crap and ect ect ect, i just hope you realize that he's probably into your car about $3K+ for labor
 
replaced the uppers on the 95 to get to the driver side rear control nut i cut an access hole removed and replaced the nut. cut a 2x3 in hole then painted it and used metal tape to hold it in place. then replaced the plastic inner liner of the fender. much quicker then fighting the master cylinder and all the congestion above it. if you cut becareful how deep you go on the cut .
 
Sapperfire said:
he can reuse the washers, those look fine, but if your stuff is all apart, why not just replace all of it anyway
Click to expand...

No, he can't, not if he uses new Ford strut rod bushings. Those two flat washers (used with the aftermarket bushings) may contact the LCA during wheel travel if used with the Ford bushings.
 
what is so important about using the factory srb? I was looking at rock auto's site which list moogs and they state that they are the improved design on one and the problem solver design on the other.
 
JDS353 said:
replaced the uppers on the 95 to get to the driver side rear control nut i cut an access hole removed and replaced the nut. cut a 2x3 in hole then painted it and used metal tape to hold it in place. then replaced the plastic inner liner of the fender. much quicker then fighting the master cylinder and all the congestion above it. if you cut becareful how deep you go on the cut .
Click to expand...

You good sir are a fu*king retard..........:shifty:
 
lsc8 said:
what is so important about using the factory srb? I was looking at rock auto's site which list moogs and they state that they are the improved design on one and the problem solver design on the other.
Click to expand...

Go ahead and give them a try, if you'd like. But, in my experience, they're junk.
 
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