Brake Bleeding Procedure

GMAN

GMAN

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While doing my suspension conversion, I cracked the brake lines to the brake calipers to move them out of the way. When I got everything back together, I bled the brakes the only way I knew. I had my wife in the seat, with myself at the calipers. After everything was done, the brakes seemed nice and hard, but as soon as the motor was on, no brakes. the pedal went all the way to the floor. I then found out that there was a procedure. Pass rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front. I tried that, and still they are not firm. I must be missing something.
 
If you have ABS

The master cylinder and hydraulic control unit must be bled using ABS test adapter T90P-50-ALA. If this procedure is not followed, air will be trapped in the hydraulic control unit which will eventually lead to a spongy brake pedal.

To bleed the master cylinder and HCU, disconnect the 55-pin plug from the ABS module and install the ABS test adapter to the wire harness 55-pin plug.


Place bleed/harness switch in bleed position.
Turn ignition to ON position. At this point the red OFF indicator should turn on.
Push motor button on adapter down to start pump motor. The red OFF indicator should turn off and the green ON indicator should turn on.
Pump motor will run for 60 seconds once motor button is pushed. If pump motor must be stopped before 60 seconds, press abort button to turn motor off.
After 20 seconds of pump motor operation, push and hold valve button down for 20 seconds then release.
Brake lines may be bled in the conventional manner. Ensure lines are bled in the following sequence:



Right Rear.
Left Front.
Left Rear.
Right Front.
 
Not the master cylinder. I had to remove the master cylinder as well to get clear access to the drivers side upper control arms.

Man, I am not going to be able to do that procedure. I am lacking the necessary equipment. I thought all Marks had ABS. I have an LSC. So is it only the LSC's with ABS?
 
jrherald420 said:
...Place bleed/harness switch in bleed position.
Turn ignition to ON position. At this point the red OFF indicator should turn on.
Push motor button on adapter down to start pump motor. The red OFF indicator should turn off and the green ON indicator should turn on.
Pump motor will run for 60 seconds once motor button is pushed. If pump motor must be stopped before 60 seconds, press abort button to turn motor off.
After 20 seconds of pump motor operation, push and hold valve button down for 20 seconds then release.
Brake lines may be bled in the conventional manner. Ensure lines are bled in the following sequence...
Click to expand...
These instructions are for a Thexton brand ABS tool for Teves IV systems, and they are very hard to find these days.

The OP didn't indicate that he owned one.
 
JMiles_T said:
These instructions are for a Thexton brand ABS tool for Teves IV systems, and they are very hard to find these days.

The OP didn't indicate that he owned one.
Click to expand...

Thats nice, those are the directions that Alldata gave me. I guess you should have stopped in and tryed to help out then.
 
On my gen 1, I used to use the traction control to cycle the ABS pump. That might be possible on the gen 2 - depends on whether the engine power cut out thing becomes a hindrance.
 
Hook up power bleeder, pressurize to 15 psi and crack the drivers front and dump a good bit of fluid. Should blow bubbles after 10 seconds or so and then after the bubbles stop close that caliper and proceed to blead from the passenger rear then drivers rear and then passenger front. Good measure to recheck the drivers front.
During this time you need to keep the power bleeder at 15psi and make sure you dont drain the res. The bleeder can hold a couple quarts so you should be safe.
 
Buy one. They are cheap. Or borrow mine. Pay for shipping both ways or come get it but by that time you could buy one.

Autozone has a cheaper one as well just not as durable or big.
 
When I replaced my ABS pump a few weeks ago, I just lifted the back wheels off the ground and put the parking brake on just a little bit. You should hear the pump motor going crazy. After a little while of that, the air should have been passed from the master cylinder side, past the pump. Once the air is past the pump, you can get the air out using your original method you were using. Worked for me. Also, when you have your assistant helping you pump the brakes, I personally leave the car running so you have the assist of the brake booster. Otherwise once the vacuum is used up(usually after a couple pumps) you are then fighting the booster itself for pressure.
 
This is the tool you need to properly bleed the brakes along with the proceedure you found, without this..........well....................Good Luck Sir!


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Jeff - :cool:
 
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