Check it out! A Lincoln big brake kit!

Laser, its good to see you jump back in after the incident with the other Mark.
You keep on adding to my list and I'll have to find ya and have ya help me out with a few things.
 
I know two things.

Make sure the boltcircle is correct.

Make sure the BACKSIDE is beveled.
 
poniesviii said:
De-burring and beveling enough to call it a bevel at all are two seperate things unless you're larry the cable guy.
Click to expand...

LOL!!!!!
Most shops will call that a chamfer.
That is a heavy chamfer... not needed be any means.
It should be .01 max, but it won't affect anything, just poor craftmanship.
 
LaserSVT said:
Why? Cause they are not. Its the front side only.
Click to expand...

Usually lug bolts have a shoulder where the knurl ends and the threads begin. The shoulder in most cases, extends past the face of the hub. If the holes are drilled to match the thread diameter of the lug, the rotor may seat against the shoulders of the lugs before seating against the hub face. Chamfering the backside provides clearance for the shoulders.
 
SATURN5 said:
Usually lug bolts have a shoulder where the knurl ends and the threads begin. The shoulder in most cases, extends past the face of the hub. If the holes are drilled to match the thread diameter of the lug, the rotor may seat against the shoulders of the lugs before seating against the hub face. Chamfering the backside provides clearance for the shoulders.
Click to expand...

Thank you for saving me some typing. :)

A couple years back, I installed new rotors (KVR) while upgrading the drivetrain. Long story short, one of the rotors was not beveled on the backside to clear the shoulder of the lugs. When the wheels were put back on, they tightened against the rotor hitting the lug shoulder and not the hub. A few miles down the highway, the car started acting like the rear end or something was going out. After returning to the shop it didn't take long to find the problem. The wheel assembly was very loose. New studs needed installed and the rotor was chamfered to fit properly to fix the problem.

As for the boltcircle, I'm glad we can laugh about that experience now Doug. LOL :D
 
Well that really sucks ass then. That means I cant install them this weekend and I am gonna have to take them back to the shop and have him do a mild chamfered on the back sides.
Crapola. :(
 
You should be able to see through the original bolt holes on the rotor to see if it's sitting flush on the hub or not...
 
driller said:
Were the original holes chamfered on the backside?
Click to expand...

Dont know, havent looked yet. Guess I will find out this Saturday. I have to swap the brakes as there is a bad caliper so I am gonna see if the guy can do a mild chamfer on the rear.


Oh *slaps head* you meen the holes on the Cobra rotors. Yes, there is a very shallow chamfer on them.
IMGP0523.jpg
 
Thats the 4x4.5 pattern hole. The 4x4.25" pattern does not have that mild chamfer on it. Its perfectly flat. I will still try anyway. I will see if the rotor sits flush and if it does then go ahead and install the kit. My new brake lines showed up too! :wrench


I know it wasnt a neccesity and they were a little pricey but I really wanted them and also didnt want to grind down the stock block to make them work with the Cobra calipers. I figure I wana do it right the first time and see how well this land barge can stop. :D
IMGP0526.jpg
 
Change the pads out too and you'll see yet another nice improvement. I could tell the difference between the stock pads my Cobra calipers came with and the Porterfield R4S ones, especially once they were warm! :)
 
yea my stock cobra pads sucked as well. I could never get them to stop making noise.
 
thats nice looking... im going to keep mine saying cobra since i eventually want to put the cobra intake on it and its getting the stock wheels from my 98 Cobra...
 
They feel freakin fantastic! I was worried at first cause there were a couple issues. One was the drivers side would not bleed. It would belled if I loosend the banjo bolt (bleed at the open bolt that is) I was so flustered I didnt even think to add another washer. I almost called Brandon but then thought it had to be something simple. After starting the car and pumping the pedal then turn off the car, re-pressurize using the power bleeder and then cracked it again and it slowly bled out. I think the banjo bolt was just kissing the piston. Then today every time I would brake it would pull left for a second. I noticed the pads were just taking a bit to bed themselves. By the time I got home the car stopped straight.
I havent nailed them yet as they need to be broken in first but I can tell already the car stops much easier and the pedal feels better.

I just now got done with the rears and added the lines too. The pedal feels fan freakin tastic now! All the mush is gone and the better pads in the rear help allot. Well I did have a frozen slide pin in the drivers rear so fortunatly I thought ahead and when I rented the tool I also bought some more pins.
Couldnt find my grease can so I used the red gunk out of my grease gun.

IMGP0639.jpg

IMGP0643.jpg
 
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