NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
When I pull codes on my car, it's showing that the MAF is getting low voltage readings. I have swapped the entire MAF box with a completely different CLEAN MAF and I still get this code.
Question is, does the MAF have any kind of relay that would cause this to happen after the car warms up? The cold start is perfect, just put brand new 764's in last night, changed TPS, changed the little box that feeds the EGR valve, I have new (8mm) wires, a new Motorcraft alternator, new 1000 CA battery.
What happens is, when I crank the car, it idles very good and smooth. I can get out on the road and drive and it seems to have full power but after the temp gauge reaches almost the 1/2 way mark, it still runs good until I let off the gas and coast up to a red light or stop sign or to make a turn. That's when it does it the most. The car just starts stalling and acts like it's going to shut down and it has shut down a couple of times and the CE light is coming on now more since I changed the plugs from Motorcraft platinums to copper 764's and the code I'm getting is (157) "Mass Air Flow Sensor - Signal Voltage Is Too Low"
Tommy, the code I was showing before were double digits but now I know that mine reads triple digits and (157) is the code I get. This only happens after it has warmed up and I have unplugged the MAF while the car was setting in the garage in idle and it would stall out and sound the same as if it would while I drive and let off the gas. After I make a turn, it's jumping sometimes like it's starving for gas but the fuel filter is new and the fuel pump has been changed so it's neither of those. After some hesitation, it will pick up and get going until I let off the gas again for the next turn.
Could my third cat be stopped up? When I get back in the garage and shut it down, the exhaust is making all kinds of popping sounds like it is extremely hot and the flow coming out of the tail pipe doesn't seem to be what it should. I am running on a muffler delete also on stock exhaust for now. We thought it was a fowled plug because after I would gas it, it would start the stalling and bogging like it had fuel in the cylinder that needed to be burned away. The MAF code I'm getting is really confusing me and if there is a relay under the hood for this, I have a 93 setting out back full of relays.
Keep in mind, this happens only after it has warmed up so whatever it is, it's only acting up after it gets hot and acts the worse when I let of the gas and coasting. I even done a power brake in the garage and when I let off, it done it again. BTW, I'm loving this transmission but this stalling is ruining everything for me and I need to get it fixed. I have a brand new crank shaft position sensor setting here in the box but if it don't need it, I ain't changing it. Any help would be very much appreciated. Please, if you don't know, don't guess because I have done all the guessing that can be done. Right now, I just want to get rid of the low voltage reading the MAF is showing. If the CE light comes on 2 times, I get the code read out to me 2 times. (157)
Question is, does the MAF have any kind of relay that would cause this to happen after the car warms up? The cold start is perfect, just put brand new 764's in last night, changed TPS, changed the little box that feeds the EGR valve, I have new (8mm) wires, a new Motorcraft alternator, new 1000 CA battery.
What happens is, when I crank the car, it idles very good and smooth. I can get out on the road and drive and it seems to have full power but after the temp gauge reaches almost the 1/2 way mark, it still runs good until I let off the gas and coast up to a red light or stop sign or to make a turn. That's when it does it the most. The car just starts stalling and acts like it's going to shut down and it has shut down a couple of times and the CE light is coming on now more since I changed the plugs from Motorcraft platinums to copper 764's and the code I'm getting is (157) "Mass Air Flow Sensor - Signal Voltage Is Too Low"
Tommy, the code I was showing before were double digits but now I know that mine reads triple digits and (157) is the code I get. This only happens after it has warmed up and I have unplugged the MAF while the car was setting in the garage in idle and it would stall out and sound the same as if it would while I drive and let off the gas. After I make a turn, it's jumping sometimes like it's starving for gas but the fuel filter is new and the fuel pump has been changed so it's neither of those. After some hesitation, it will pick up and get going until I let off the gas again for the next turn.
Could my third cat be stopped up? When I get back in the garage and shut it down, the exhaust is making all kinds of popping sounds like it is extremely hot and the flow coming out of the tail pipe doesn't seem to be what it should. I am running on a muffler delete also on stock exhaust for now. We thought it was a fowled plug because after I would gas it, it would start the stalling and bogging like it had fuel in the cylinder that needed to be burned away. The MAF code I'm getting is really confusing me and if there is a relay under the hood for this, I have a 93 setting out back full of relays.
Keep in mind, this happens only after it has warmed up so whatever it is, it's only acting up after it gets hot and acts the worse when I let of the gas and coasting. I even done a power brake in the garage and when I let off, it done it again. BTW, I'm loving this transmission but this stalling is ruining everything for me and I need to get it fixed. I have a brand new crank shaft position sensor setting here in the box but if it don't need it, I ain't changing it. Any help would be very much appreciated. Please, if you don't know, don't guess because I have done all the guessing that can be done. Right now, I just want to get rid of the low voltage reading the MAF is showing. If the CE light comes on 2 times, I get the code read out to me 2 times. (157)