Dumb Rear Brake Question

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14.6@97MPH

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How do you release the tension on the parking brake to get the parking brake cable off the rear caliper, so I can get to the lower caliper bolt?

Sorry for the dumb question.

I only changed the rear brakes myself once on my 1993, and I don't remember having to take the parking brake cable off the caliper.

I still haven't fixed the ABS light problem, my garage just pointed out while they were changing my brake fluid that my rear brakes needed to be replaced asap.

Thanks!
Ken

ps - Tommy - I told you this was an even dumber question. Next I might ask how to get the door adjar warning to go away (just kidding) :)
 
Grab the "lead" end of the parking brake cable at the caliper with a pair of pliers, pull it out a bit and around the tab it sits in, then you can pull the cable housing out from the caliper bracket.
 
DLF said:
Grab the "lead" end of the parking brake cable at the caliper with a pair of pliers, pull it out a bit and around the tab it sits in, then you can pull the cable housing out from the caliper bracket.
Click to expand...

Don't I have to take some tension out of the parking brake cable before I do that? It looks like I can get the cable off easily, but putting back on with all that tension doesn't look easy?

Thanks,
Ken
 
You will have no problem getting the cable back on, just use the pliers or vice grips to reinstall.
 
I get in the center of the rear of the car, find the Ebrake cable.
There is a spring type device in the middle of the rear of the car.
compress that spring and it'll give you slack to pull the cable out of the caliper bracket.

it takes a friend to either pull the cable out of the caliper when you compress the spring or vice versa, have them compress the spring and you pull the cable out of the caliper
 
I did just pop off the e-brake cable. Hopefully it won't be impossible to put back on. There was no was to get to the lower caliper bolt without taking it off...........I don't remember this being the case in my 1993, so maybe it's a Gen II thing??

Anyway, to make matter worse, 3 out of the 4 guide pins on the rear calipers are seized........frozen for good. So now I need 2-new calipers. I didn't even know those could seize and the pistons seem to work fine. Hopefully the Pep Boys I called really does have a remanufactured set I can pick up tonight.

This job is taking way too long and it's cold outside (I don't have a garage)!!

Right now my car is sitting on jack stands in the driveway with no rear wheels, no rear disks, and 2 half's of calipers hanging.............yeh White Trash.

...........and this has nothing to do with the problem I started to fix, the damn ABS/TC light!!

Ken
 
14.6@97MPH said:
I did just pop off the e-brake cable. Hopefully it won't be impossible to put back on. There was no was to get to the lower caliper bolt without taking it off...........I don't remember this being the case in my 1993, so maybe it's a Gen II thing??

Anyway, to make matter worse, 3 out of the 4 guide pins on the rear calipers are seized........frozen for good. So now I need 2-new calipers. I didn't even know those could seize and the pistons seem to work fine. Hopefully the Pep Boys I called really does have a remanufactured set I can pick up tonight.

This job is taking way too long and it's cold outside (I don't have a garage)!!

Right now my car is sitting on jack stands in the driveway with no rear wheels, no rear disks, and 2 half's of calipers hanging.............yeh White Trash.

...........and this has nothing to do with the problem I started to fix, the damn ABS/TC light!!

Ken
Click to expand...

You can buy just the caliper brackets, if the calipers themselves are OK.

I think I have a couple lying around, where in NJ are you?
 
I'm in Belmar (well a small town next to Belmar, that you never heard of), are you anywhere near there? If you do have some mounting brackets with guide pins I'll come pick them up tonight if you're close!!

I was just going to replace the whole caliper, if pep boys has the part right. If the guide pins seized the piston can't be too far behind, right?

They're only $50 each. (after core charge)

btw - your Red Mark VIII with the painted Cobra R's looks awesome. Painted Cobra R's are still my favorite rim, I can't believe you can't get them anymore for our bolt pattern. :(

Ken
 
14.6@97MPH said:
I'm in Belmar (well a small town next to Belmar, that you never heard of), are you anywhere near there? If you do have some mounting brackets with guide pins I'll come pick them up tonight if you're close!!

I was just going to replace the whole caliper, if pep boys has the part right. If the guide pins seized the piston can't be too far behind, right?

They're only $50 each. (after core charge)

btw - your Red Mark VIII with the painted Cobra R's looks awesome. Painted Cobra R's are still my favorite rim, I can't believe you can't get them anymore for our bolt pattern. :(

Ken
Click to expand...

Thanks, those are actually '98 Cobra wheels.

I'm in Forked River (exit 74). I just checked, and I do have a decent used set of brackets, and also a set of rebuilt calipers (no pads).
 
Release the parking brake would probably be step number 1, it doesn't have to be on while the back is jack up, does no good
 
Last edited:
........I didn't have the e-brake on while chaning the rear brakes, lol :rolleyes:

Anyway, my rear brake change update. I've got 1-sided done! My local Auto Zone got caliper bracket mounts for me (these are not easy to come by). Well, they got 1 for me today, and they'll have the other tomorrow. They weren't that expensive, so I went with new (or remanufactured).

Doug - Thanks for the offer to help out with used ones!! Very much appreciated!!

I'm not the greatest mechanic in the world (I'm an accountant by trade), but I couldn't get a socket around the lower caliper bolt without taking the e-brake cable off. I got the e-brake cables off easily, my worry was how hard they would be to get back on. Well one is back on, and that was easy..........we'll see how the 2nd wheel goes.

Oh, and I should have listened to everybody about not getting the brake cube tool...........what a waste....it didn't work, I just used channel locks & a c-clamp to screw the piston back in, that worked fine. (My local auto stores were out of the correct rear brake tool that everybody suggested)

Tomorrow will be 3-days to change rear brakes. :( This was supposed to be an easy job, every day I work on the car it's colder outside than the day before, and I still haven't finished what I started to work on.........the damn ABS/TC light.

Ken
 
Even though you got them off, for prosperity's sake...

To release the e-brake cable tension, you do it at the tension adjuster where the two cables meet in the center of the rear of the car. From the manual...

Removal

1. Fully release the parking brake.

2. Raise vehicle on axle-type hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. Removal of cable tension requires two people to disengage and reload the tensioner. One person is to unlock the tensioner by pulling downward on the clip. While the clip is disengaged, the second person is to apply the parking brake control fully to the last notch position. The tensioner spring will compress allowing cable slack to return. Next lock the tensioner by pushing up on the clip. Ensure locking lever is secure by rotating it toward threaded rod. Wrap tape or wire around the locking lever and threaded rod to prevent any accidental release.

4. Release the parking brake control. The cables, tensioner and control assembly may be removed.
Click to expand...

This will release all tension in the cables allowing you to easily pull slack in the cable at the caliper e-brake bracket without fighting spring tension.

To install...

Initial Installation Adjustment

1. Install parking brake control tensioner and all cables with routing clips. Connect all cables together with tensioner. (Be sure to install correct adjuster for rear brake usage).

2. Place the transmission in NEUTRAL (N). Raise the vehicle on an axle-type hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. With parking brake control in OFF position, grasp tensioner around housing, then using a tool similar to the one shown, hook the end into the rounded end of clip between clip and housing. Unlock clip by pulling downward with the tool and support tensioner, tensioner spring will take up cable slack and preload cables. While holding tensioner, lock the clip by pushing up on bottom of clip. If clip does not slide up, move assembly slightly to align closest groove on adjuster rod to the clip.

4. Apply parking brake control fully on 445N (100 lb) foot pedal effort. Release parking brake control. Repeat application twice and release.

5. Repeat Step 3 to take up any additional slack.
Click to expand...
 
c clamp and vice grips? how does that work ? because that stupid fn dumb piece of crap square they sell sucks donkey crack.
 
I was just about to post that Harbor Freight kit. I bought that kit about 5 years ago and it's been invaluable. For only $30 you can't go wrong. I think you use die #5, IIRC.
 
I just put the pressure on the piston with a c-clamp and turned the piston with channel locks. Most of the turns didn't require the c-clamp, but to start off, it didn't seem like the piston was going in by just turning it.............with a little pressure from the c-clamp it turned in. I put the channel locks on the outside of the whole piston when turning it.

If I could have gotten the correct tool the day I started this job (and the day I thought I was going to finish it) I would have. All my local auto part stores were out.

Thanks for the directions on releaving the tension on the e-brake cable. I might need that to put the 2nd side back on.

-Ken
 
I certainly hope that you didn't scratch any part of the outside of the piston that touches the piston seal.... :(
 
Ken, next time.. save yourself alot of headache.

Bring the car down to houston, we'll sit in some lawn chairs and watch tiffany change your brakes for you.

she's even got the correct tool for the job
 
m'yeah ok.. if your idea of fun is watching some guy bent over your car verus a 100LB female, save yourself a trip to houston and take it to DLF
(gins)
 
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