Testing my paint skills again today.

I couldnt justify that kind of cost. By the time I got the headliner and all it would be well over $1000. Ill just pretend the roof is stronger without it.

Unless your headliner is bad, you wouldn't need another one. It would be cut out too and trimmed up with the factory moon roof. I don't know what they charge for cutting and installing. Seems like with it being factory and ready to bolt up, they should cut you some slack.
 
I finally got fed up with the big faded splotches on the top of my car. Everything is shiny black, except the roof. I done my front bumper cover back in 07 and today I got in the mood for the roof. It's almost complete now. I'm keeping the garage heated tonight for some finish up work tomorrow. So far, so good! No more splotches on the top but none of these pics show the proof yet. Will post them tomorrow. It has now been DA'd, primed, wet sanded, dried, painted and the clear is next. It's looking like a different car again.

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Yes, I covered the glass on the top.

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if you need any more paint practice you can paint my car :D

As long as it's not black. I hate painting black. I'm going to get a new Devilbiss spray gun this weekend, probably the CFG-670 (supposed to have better pressure at the cap) and shoot the hood and trunk lid that is already off the other car. Well, I'm gonna get the gun this weekend but play around with it through the week. Have to see which tip I like the best, 1.3 or the 1.5. I have plenty of primer but I need to get some base coat clear coat and nothing expensive because it's for practice only. The hood should be fun. Have to barely sand it and try to stay off the primer but at the same time, get out the little bubbles and pits. Why did they have to bond our hoods together with two different materials? I'm going to hit the hood with about 4 coats of primer, wet sand with 1500 and then 4 to 5 coats of BCCC.

Jamie, what kind (brand) of paint did you use on that gold Mark? I think I want to practice with Sherwin Williams but do the real deal with maybe PPG.
 
Laser, my pic host came back up again. Shouldn't be anymore red X's lol. I could go out there and take some more pics but I'm letting the paint cure out good and then coming over it with a polishing compound and I want a good wax for black cars. I do have all the plastic and tape off the car and I also cleaned the hell out of the garage and yes, it looked like hell out there. I'll go out there inna little bit and get an after pic and put the before and after side by side but one is daylight and this one would be night with 4 lights up above. For a rattle can, it turned out much slicker than I imagined it would.
 
As long as it's not black. I hate painting black. I'm going to get a new Devilbiss spray gun this weekend, probably the CFG-670 (supposed to have better pressure at the cap) and shoot the hood and trunk lid that is already off the other car. Well, I'm gonna get the gun this weekend but play around with it through the week. Have to see which tip I like the best, 1.3 or the 1.5. I have plenty of primer but I need to get some base coat clear coat and nothing expensive because it's for practice only. The hood should be fun. Have to barely sand it and try to stay off the primer but at the same time, get out the little bubbles and pits. Why did they have to bond our hoods together with two different materials? I'm going to hit the hood with about 4 coats of primer, wet sand with 1500 and then 4 to 5 coats of BCCC.

Jamie, what kind (brand) of paint did you use on that gold Mark? I think I want to practice with Sherwin Williams but do the real deal with maybe PPG.

nope Pearl white, although i always thought the Cadillac pearl white would look real nice
 
nope Pearl white, although i always thought the Cadillac pearl white would look real nice

Jamie would be your pearl sprayer. I could do it and make it look good but I have seen pics of his pearl work and it looked really good. He quoted me a price once to paint the entire car which I won't mention here but if you have any vacation time coming your way, it might be worth it to you to make a trip to Florida where he is and visit the beach while he gets that Mark back in shape again. He could make the pearl any color you wanted too but from a distance of 10 foot or more, the car would look solid white until you stepped up on it and actually see the real color glowing out at you on top of the white.
 
I had to wait until today to get a few pics. I still haven't done the buffing on it yet and right now I'm not feeling good (head cold) so I doubt I'll mess with it today but these pics show that for under $40, you can get the cancer off the top of your car. Before anyone asks, the blue tape inside on my windshield is there holding the silver button for my mirror. I used a mirror epoxy instead of regular mirror glue and it has been setting all night like that.

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Yes, it looks a little scratchy but that's from wet sanding. When the polishing and buffing is done, it will be like black glass.

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Compared to

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How did u seperate the paint line from the roof and quarter? Or do gen1s have seperAtion lines?
 
autoair colors makes a water borne base that's reasonable to buy and that you can buy in small bottles to experiment with. The waterborne is also much less reactive on a fiberglass hood.
 
As soon as they figure out waterbased clear coat I'd love to start painting... I just can't get over the ISO's...
 
Alright, I finally felt good today and not sick anymore and decided to remove the scratches left from the wet sanding and get the roof buffed out. Remember, this was done with Dupli Color from a can. Primer, paint and the clear was all from a rattle can. The clear doesn't rattle because the enamel clear does not have a ball in the can. It's acrylic enamel and so was the paint. The only thing I done to it tonight was used a 10" foam pad, which I put on a Craftsman cordless 90 degree angled drill. It looks like a rotary buffer but much cheaper when you don't have a rotary buffer. With the 10" foam pad, I used Meguiar's professional medium-cut cleaner. You have to be careful with this stuff or you'll burn the clear so you have to keep it moving. The drill had the perfect speed for this. When I was done with the polishing of the wet sand, I used a 6" orbital buffer with a fine wool polisher. Nothing else has been done but tomorrow I will get some wax on it. As of now, you can see the finish I have on the roof without wax. For a rattle can job, I think it turned out pretty damn slick.

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The specs you see are just dust that I didn't wipe off. It's almost like a mirror black finish.

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I put my mirror back on too while I was at it.

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This is what I used to get out the wet sand dullness and scratches. That bottle was $12.00 so for right at $50.00, it doesn't look like the pic below anymore.

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Rear bumper cover is next. I should be able to do all of it for under $30.00 + $15.00 for new chrome molding and that one roll will replace the front and back chrome in the bumper covers.
 
what is this chrome trim you speak of and where to find it? Mine was painted on my car, and id ilke to put the chrome trim back in

It's the chrome strip that is bonded into your bumper covers. 2 pieces in the front and 1 long piece on the rear cover. Some people paint theirs black or the same color as the car but I like black and chrome. If I had LSC bumper covers, I'd go for that but I'm not painting my chrome black, not when I can replace what I have and make it look new again. You can get it in rolls at most auto parts stores and 1/2 in. will work perfect.

For the sides, you can go on ebay and buy chrome tape because you're on a straight shot but you want to sand down what you have on there and clean it real good and then apply a thin layer of glue, let it get tacky and then put the tape over that.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Silv...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The molding can be bought on ebay too. Be ready for a job when you remove what you have from the bumper covers. It is glued in there good and I think on the inside of the covers, there are sets of metal prongs that come through a hole and are spread apart to help hold it on. Just make sure you have the tools to remove the glue from the slot when you pull it so that when you put the new in, you'll be bonding to a nice clean smooth surface.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-2-...Z190256495984QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
 
I bought my front and rear chrome trim recently from Max. Flexchrome does not have the lenth for the rear bumper trim.
You would have to buy 2 smaller rolls and have a seam in the middle.
Was amazed that the trim was still listed, of course the price reflects it.
 
Well, right there you see for $23.00 you would have 20 ft. of it with 3M acrylic foam tape holding it on. You could also do the sides since you already have the front done. What did those 2 pieces cost you to the door from Max?

EDIT: Just noticed you said you done the front and rear. Should be right at 9/16 and I could imagine what that might have cost.
 
Looks :q:q:q:q man!! Wana come ovewr and paint my fender and bumper for me? :D

I cant believ the slang word for womens beewbies is blocked here. :lol:
 
Alot more than 23 bucks. At least I am doing my part of keeping Ford out of bankrupcy.
Actually the OEM is slightly wider than whats on the EBAY link anyway, and the rear trim has little mounting tabs that match with the holes on the cover.
I am also assuming that the OEM trim will last longer. No offense against the items on EBAY, but you get what you pay for.
 
Looks :q:q:q:q man!! Wana come ovewr and paint my fender and bumper for me? :D

I cant believ the slang word for womens beewbies is blocked here. :lol:

lol Thanks Laser,

If you were closer, I'd come knock out that fender and bumper and just hope for a match. You can have spray cans made up to match exactly what you have but they aren't $4.49 a can. :) Another reason I like black! I just hate to paint it. Easy to match but hard to hide all imperfections. The bumper and fender would be a lot easier than the top, with spray cans I should say. The spray cans just don't put out enough pressure like a real spray gun does. Since the roof turned out the way it did, I'm just going to knock out the rear bumper for around $30 and replace the chrome. I was going to buy a new gun but not now. I got exhaust to finish and all paint will be slick till next Summer or Fall.
 
Alot more than 23 bucks. At least I am doing my part of keeping Ford out of bankrupcy.
Actually the OEM is slightly wider than whats on the EBAY link anyway, and the rear trim has little mounting tabs that match with the holes on the cover.
I am also assuming that the OEM trim will last longer. No offense against the items on EBAY, but you get what you pay for.

I'm not buying the ebay trim, I was just pointing out that it can come in one piece and not 2 separate pieces. Mine is coming from Allen's paint and body shop over in Decatur. I have a friend over there that can get me a roll pretty cheap and it is slightly wider than the 1/2" but it's still not OEM and will come in one piece. Ford and bankruptcy have nothing to do with me. It's not like they really carry anything I need anyway. If the groove is cleaned properly and the trim has a good adhesive holding it, it's not going anywhere and it should last me as long as I own the car.

Just to save a trip over to Decatur, I might just buy the 9/16 trip off ebay because he most likely has the same stuff. Anything will look better than the 15 year old stuff I have on there now.
 
This turned out surprisingly nice. Good job/writeup.
 

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