Issue with 2006 Lincoln LS E-brake/traction control is not working

DaleGrib

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I have a 2006 Lincoln LS and the parking brake is not working at all I have tried the reset procedure with no luck.
Also the traction control light warning is lit up on the dash and I also get the Check Advanced Trac, Service Park Brake

The ABS light is not on at all it does work though as I can see when the car starts up.
I ran a code reader on the car and I get the following errors.

C1785 EBP Motor Output Open Circuit Electronic Parking Brake Module REFER to Section 206-05 .

and

U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault Electronic Parking Brake Module REFER to Section 418-00 .

I am assuming I will need to replace one of the two parts that typically mess up on these. But was hoping maybe I could get an idea of which one I need to replace.

Many Thanks in advance

I will also add my other codes as well that scanned
I know what most of them are (pretty sure anyway)
(WARN) [20:49:21.135] DTCs in PCM: P0430-FF, P1000-FF
(WARN) [20:49:21.581] DTCs in OBDII: P0430-P
(WARN) [20:49:25.854] DTCs in ACM: U2025, U2005, U2008


(WARN) [20:49:27.622] DTCs in IC: B2879, B1875, B1352, U1262
(WARN) [20:49:29.101] DTCs in GEM: B2316
(WARN) [20:49:30.515] DTCs in EPB: C1785

B2879 Fuel Tank Jet Pump Fault Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 413-01 .

B1875 Turn Signal/Hazard Switch Signal Circuit Failure Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 417-01 .

B1352 Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 413-09 .

U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault Electronic Parking Brake Module REFER to Section 418-00 .

B2316 Mirror Passenger Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Failure

C1785 EBP Motor Output Open Circuit Electronic Parking Brake Module REFER to Section 206-05 .
I know I have to replace the turn signal switch and the jet fuel jump as well as the cats most likely but the others I am stumped on.
Might I also add I bought the car with these problems! Trying to get it legal so it can pass a inspection
 
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Also if it is the rear module and I replace it, will it have to be reprogrammed at a dealership like I had to do when I replaced the ABS module?
 
Was this a flood car? If so, there really isn't much hope. If not, how did it get so many different faults?

On the electronic parking brake...

There are two electrical parts. A control module mounted in the back of the trunk, and a motor module mounted under the car, more or less over the axle. Your issue could be either, both, or neither. The module in the trunk is the easier of the two to change out, so you may want to try it first. A brand new one has to be configured, but a used one from an LS with the same engine as yours should just work with no configuration over than the procedure that the message center will guide you through.
 
No it's not a flood car and I am not really sure why there is that many faults. Just trying to fix them one at a time.

Am I to assume the reason the traction control is not working is because of the parking brake system issue? Or is it usually something else that would cause it? I only ask cause I did not notice any AdvanceTrac codes.

Also this morning I had the battery and the alternator tested and they passed so I have eliminated that as a possible cause. I know a lot of people will say to test them two things before going any further.

I have ordered so far a replacement Fuel Jet Pump, a turn signal switch and a new catalytic system. So a lot of the codes should go away! The car has 240K miles on it so some of these repairs are to be expected. I will add also that the car actually runs very good with all the issues (Yes I know that sounds crazy) but it does run a lot better than you might expect.
 
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The parking brake does not affect AdvanceTrac. That said, any ABS problem that prevents it from reporting vehicle speed, will cause a parking brake error.
 
The parking brake does not affect AdvanceTrac. That said, any ABS problem that prevents it from reporting vehicle speed, will cause a parking brake error.
Ok Thanks, if it were the speed sensors I would see a code for them right ? I do know my rear bearings are gonna need to be replaced is there any chance that would cause the AdvanceTrac to not work?
 
If the ABS warning light is not on, then it should not be wheel sensors. Usually, when the ABS is okay and the AdvanceTrac (you do have AdvanceTrac and not just traction control, right?) is not, then it is either the steering angle sensor, the yaw sensor, system not calibrated, or the wrong ABS module. Of course, any or all of those should throw DTCs.
 
If the ABS warning light is not on, then it should not be wheel sensors. Usually, when the ABS is okay and the AdvanceTrac (you do have AdvanceTrac and not just traction control, right?) is not, then it is either the steering angle sensor, the yaw sensor, system not calibrated, or the wrong ABS module. Of course, any or all of those should throw DTCs.

I am sure I have AdvanceTrac as it is a warning on the message center.
I had the ABS Module Replaced and I had called the dealership and they gave me the correct part numbers per my VIN and I ordered it and had it replaced and it was flashed so I am pretty sure that would have taken care of any programming issues right? These shops really are not much help all they did was flash the new abs module and did not give me any of the other codes I had to buy a Modified ELM327 to get what codes that I have now.
Would any of my other codes give any other insight to steering angle sensor, the yaw sensor, system not calibrated, or the wrong ABS module issues?
 
...I had to buy a Modified ELM327 to get what codes that I have now.
Would any of my other codes give any other insight to steering angle sensor, the yaw sensor, system not calibrated, or the wrong ABS module issues?

I wonder if it is picking up all the codes...
No, nothing you listed leads in any of those directions.
 
I wonder if it is picking up all the codes...
No, nothing you listed leads in any of those directions.

LOL that is always something to wonder with any of these cheap scanners for sure. I will be replacing the fuel jet tonight as the replacement just came in and I plan to rescan the car after that and see if anything changes. If not then I know I have got problems with electrical. But I am pretty sure the Fuel Jet was bad because had some issues with the car one time cutting off with over 1/4 of a tank of gas in it and it has read the gas wrong ever since that time. We have just kept the tank full and it had not been an issue anymore other than the wrong reading for gas and distance to empty. Also the Turn signal switch for sure is about toast it's hard to get the thing to even work. I figured out I had to put it on high beams to make the signals work obviously not something you want to have to do at night. I should have that by Thursday so hoping by replacing that some of the other codes go away which I doubt.
 
The U1262s need to go away. It is okay for one to pop up now and then, but not for them to be persistent. Data bus issues can cause all sorts of problems.
 
The U1262s need to go away. It is okay for one to pop up now and then, but not for them to be persistent. Data bus issues can cause all sorts of problems.
If that does not go away what does that usually mean ECM or PCM needing to be replaced?
 
If that does not go away what does that usually mean ECM or PCM needing to be replaced?

Usually a wiring problem, or it could be any one of the electronic modules. Pretty much all of them connect to the bus.
 
Usually a wiring problem, or it could be any one of the electronic modules. Pretty much all of them connect to the bus.

I will also say I get a very annoying beep time to time in the car the buzzer will start beeping randomly and I know the air bag light is not messed up that works when the car starts up but the only thing that helps that issue is unplugging the battery and it's fine for a week or so then it starts up again. But it started doing this after the fuel issue happened so was hoping that was the cause of that.
 
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Update I was not able to remove the fuel jet tonight cause I have to get the tool to remove the ring around the sending unit. But I rescanned the car today and will give you a complete log off all the readings
(OK) [20:49:08.836] Connection to adapter has been established: COM6
(OK) [20:49:08.837] Adapter: ELM327 v1.5
(OK) [20:49:10.910] Connection to vehicle has been established
(OK) [20:49:11.630] Vehicle: Lincoln LS 4V 3.9L 2006 ( 2006 MY ), VIN: 1LN*********16710
(OK) [20:49:13.254] Found module: PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(WARN) [20:49:21.135] DTCs in PCM: P0430-FF, P1000-FF
(OK) [20:49:21.299] Found module: OBDII - On Board Diagnostic II
(WARN) [20:49:21.581] DTCs in OBDII: P0430-P
(OK) [20:49:22.620] Found module: DSM - Driver's Seat Module
(OK) [20:49:24.069] Found module: DDM - Drivers Door Module
(OK) [20:49:24.770] Found module: EATC - Electronic Automatic Temperature Control
(OK) [20:49:25.650] Found module: ACM - Audio Control Module
(WARN) [20:49:25.854] DTCs in ACM: U2025, U2005, U2008
(OK) [20:49:26.642] Found module: MC - Message Center
(OK) [20:49:26.918] Found module: IC - Instrument Cluster
(WARN) [20:49:27.622] DTCs in IC: B2879, B1875, B1352, U1262
(OK) [20:49:27.976] Found module: GEM - Generic Electronic Module
(WARN) [20:49:29.101] DTCs in GEM: B2316
(OK) [20:49:29.239] Found module: REM - Rear Electronic Module
(OK) [20:49:29.949] Found module: EPB - Electric Parking Brake
(WARN) [20:49:30.515] DTCs in EPB: C1785
(OK) [20:49:30.693] Found module: ABS - Antilock braking system
(WARN) [20:49:31.562] DTCs in ABS: C1285, C1287
(OK) [20:49:33.264] Found module: RCM - Restraint Control Module
(ERR) [20:50:05.972] No ELM found. Please check connection and try again
 
Well, at least you know why the AvanceTrac is out now

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
So does that typically mean replacing the brake booster solenoid would fix that issue? Sorry if I sound stupid asking that I am not a car expert by any means just a disabled vet trying to get my car fixed! Thanks for all your help

Or is this the unit that the abs module hooks into?

Also if this the pump beside the abs module I already have a spare one. Will I have to do anything special to bleed the system after I change this?

And that B2798 I see that tends to be a Heater Control Valve and I think I had read that could cause enough issues to throw to e-brake system issue am I wrong about that ?
 
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No, don't just throw parts at it. I posted the troubleshooting flow. You'll notice that the first thing to check for both of those codes is to see if the ABS/AdvanceTrac module has been calibrated. Since the module was just replaced, I think that it is a good suspect that this will be your problem. You just need a scan tool that can start the calibration procedure, then follow all the steps.

Yes, a failing DCCV can cause parking brake problems, but probably not the specific one that you have. Be sure to use Motorcraft or Bosch for the new DCCV, and not Murray or other aftermarket (if you want it to work well for more than a few weeks).
 
Is this
No, don't just throw parts at it. I posted the troubleshooting flow. You'll notice that the first thing to check for both of those codes is to see if the ABS/AdvanceTrac module has been calibrated. Since the module was just replaced, I think that it is a good suspect that this will be your problem. You just need a scan tool that can start the calibration procedure, then follow all the steps.

Yes, a failing DCCV can cause parking brake problems, but probably not the specific one that you have. Be sure to use Motorcraft or Bosch for the new DCCV, and not Murray or other aftermarket (if you want it to work well for more than a few weeks).

Well I paid for shop to program that module and do any setup it needed, I did not at that time replace the ABS pump that is why I was asking shouldn't I just replace that now since I have a pump that I know works?

Edit:
I called the shop and the confirmed that they had already calibrated it.
 
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Perhaps they missed a step? Maybe they thought that configuring it was calibrating it? Calibrating involves a short drive cycle, it can't be finished with the car sitting in a bay.
Those codes have nothing to do with the ABS pump and valve unit.
If you do decide to change the hydraulic unit anyway, you will need a scan tool to exercise it to properly bleed it.

Be aware that if you decide to skip the troubleshooting and replace the vacuum booster assembly, you will then have to complete the calibration, whether it was done before or not.
 
Perhaps they missed a step? Maybe they thought that configuring it was calibrating it? Calibrating involves a short drive cycle, it can't be finished with the car sitting in a bay.
Those codes have nothing to do with the ABS pump and valve unit.
If you do decide to change the hydraulic unit anyway, you will need a scan tool to exercise it to properly bleed it.

The manager swears up and down that the system they use would done this but I am asking them to check with their people and see if they would actually drive a car when they calibrate it with the scan tool so it programs. I will update you soon as I know what is going on.

Edit:
Called another shop in town that is willing to take a look for free to see if the sensors are not actually calibrated to everything and I am starting to suspect that shop did not do it which kinda sucks considering I paid them program the abs module and get it working. Will update you a little later with hopefully a bit of good news. Keeping my fingers Crossed!
 
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Update:
They said the only thing they were able to calibrate after was the steering which they did again today and it did not seem to help at all. Is that all they calibrate cause if not might be time to take it to the dealer and have them do it.
 
I believe that the yaw (though you don't have a code for that) and vacuum booster controls have to be calibrated too. I have never done it (booster calibration) so I am not sure what happens there.
 
I believe that the yaw (though you don't have a code for that) and vacuum booster controls have to be calibrated too. I have never done it (booster calibration) so I am not sure what happens there.
Ok Thanks I am gonna attempt to change the pump this weekend. A guy I am making a deal with said he has bleed them manually before after changing them. He just said it's harder to do but it's possible. But I think he has a scan tool that can do auto bleed if it really is needed. Not sure that he worked on a LS before but he said he has worked on similar with the jags and thunderbirds. And I guess if worse comes to worse I was quoted $89 earlier today to calibrate the system so can always have the car towed if that has to happen. One other quick question do you know anyplace besides having to order that would have the fuel pump removal wrench or tool whatever they call it. I have called autozone , Advance, o'reilly, napa and carquest none of them have it and much less none of them have actually heard of anything besides a spanner tool but that I think is used for the Gen 1 models cause the lip is plastic vs this one is metal.
 
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Changing the pump/hydraulic unit definitely will have no affect on your current AdvanceTrac problem.

I think that most make their own removal tool by cutting and bending some of the flat and angle metal strips that you can get at Home Depot or Lowes.
Otherwise:
www.ebay.com/itm/310-123-Fuel-Tank-Sender-Unit-Wrench-J-45722-9340-New-Fast-Ship-/282290542909
www.amazon.com/OTC-6599-Universal-Fuel-Sender/dp/B000F5LJ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526504263&sr=8-1&keywords=fuel+sender+wrench&dpID=31CAdGZt6cL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
 

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