Devin's 06 LS - Round 2

Loud - Correct. Rears cut-out right before the muffler entrance, and straight piped with tips added.

so OEM cats, resonators, and H-pipe remain. (my car has no third car near trans - there is a stamped section that at first glance appears like a chamber - but it is not)

Here is a another vid - from the cabin

[video]https://youtu.be/W73luG8Dqoo[/video]

@ about 0:52 - you can hear a high pitched whine, electrical it sounds like. My car does this every morning the first time I accelerate past 3,000 rpm. It will do it again every once and a while after its warm too, but the initial acceleration after a first start is the most common. Any one know if this is an issue?
 
Is there an LVC joke I am not getting?

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Any brand you can find for the cabin air filter should be fine. The last time I checked (years ago), the Motorcraft filter was overpriced.

If you think the MC filter is overpriced, check on what a Bosch will cost you!

KS
 
Is there an LVC joke I am not getting?

bigrig_jeff_mike_zpsnf4weka5.jpg

No.... I used an alias....

And for the whine/tone it's considered normal. Over at LLSOC I posted the bulletin around the summer of '09. Lincoln says it's a conflict between the NAV and the AdvanceTrac doing a self-check. Quite annoying (to me as the pitch was a bit painful!) and I never discovered a solution.
 
Mystery man!

Well I find some comfort in at least knowing what the noise is. So thanks, i can take that off the "things to look into list" :D
 
My bad, I couldn't remember LS4me's real name, though it was Jeff but guess it could be Michael.
 
Car was at the dealer since last Friday until today. Oil change, p/s window regulator, both front UCA's, and rear pinion seal replaced. I also had my door code retrieved from the ecu since the PO did not have it.

Noticed the d/s UCA has a motorcraft label, and the p/s was marked jaguar. My suspension clunk noise has disappeared! It was making a very subtle yet persistent clunk during acceleration and braking. But not when turning. The UCA's had torn boots and play. Car feels much better overall.

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Also, while it was in, I located two round strut caps from two LS owners. Thanks to Hawk and Tony for these!

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Had a '16 MKZ 3.7 awd for a loaner, and it was very nice. In the right color combo, and maybe with a nice set of wheels and suspension this car could be special. Goes without saying that as nice as it was, it ws no V8 rwd LS. Turning the LS over in the dealer lot today instantly put a smile back on my face.

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This weekend's plans if time allows - replace caliper boots and regrease slide pins to get rid of some caliper noise, and restore headlight lenses.
 
If anyone local to IL/WI is bored tonight, I am going to take the LS to the dragstrip tonight to get a baseline of the car before I get an XCAL/tune. I made a thread in the MW section, which can be found HERE

Results are in

Got to the track about 15 min before it started to drizzle, so I had no cool down time after the 1hr drive in and it was about 80 degrees tonight so the car felt a little sluggish off the line. I blasted the heat between runs, and the rain was on and off, but managed to get 7 runs in, overall consistent passes though. I managed to match my best time ever from my gen1 LS. so with only a fraction of the mods, I am glad this LS is off to a better start. I think if the air cooled down a bit, and I had some more cooldown time, the car could probably manage a 14.5-14.6 in it's current state. It is running pretty strong.

93oct, and about 1/8 tank of gas. 80 degrees.

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Working on seeing if my cousin can get me a video to show you guys. With the track only open a few minutes before drizzles, we didnt have time to film leisurely. managed to snap this on my way home.

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Quick after pic of the headlights after the restoration. Before and afters will be up shortly.

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More LS pics for you all. Some before and afters of the headlights. For the $30 kit and a majority of a Saturday, this turned out well. There is a slight haze/hue to the lights now, but overall - they are much better than before. Years of the Florida sun took a toll on them I suppose. The top sections were in the worst shape. Tried to get as many angles as possible.

Before:

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During:

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After:

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Comparison:

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Next - I found a guy on CL parting an LS. His ad said it was an 02, so I went over to his place prepared to grab axles and a spare diff for my upcomming diff project. Turns out the car is actually a Silver Birch 2006! I decided to pass on the running gear, but instead, got a few things I have been looking for all for only $100!

Spare engine cover to hack up for the Jag project, spare headlight switch, console rear HVAC panel (my airflow knobs broke off), cupholder with switches, and console trim. I had knicked mine up a bit when removing the stick on trim.

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Console before:
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After (MUCH BETTER!)
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Overall I am happy I went to check out the LS, and it being silver, I may be back there - who knows.

Met a friend today and he managed to get another clip of the exhaust - great crackles on the downshifts

[video]https://youtu.be/6klWqq_sFSQ[/video]
 
And for the whine/tone it's considered normal. Over at LLSOC I posted the bulletin around the summer of '09. Lincoln says it's a conflict between the NAV and the AdvanceTrac doing a self-check. Quite annoying (to me as the pitch was a bit painful!) and I never discovered a solution.

I rewired the door speakers when I put in my aftermarket setup and the noise went away. Replaced the factory amps, head unit, door speakers, and ran all new wires.
 
my money is on getting rid of the factory amps (and or the signal wire leading to them)
 
So what eliminated the tone? The amp? Wiring? Did you have the THX??
I have the 06 with factory NAV & THX. I first replaced the head unit while retaining the factory amps and speakers; the noise remained.

my money is on getting rid of the factory amps (and or the signal wire leading to them)

This is my assumption as well, that the low voltage signal was routed from the head unit near the advance track control unit at the driver side footwell. This introduced feedback into the speaker signal which was then amplified and came through the speakers. I routed the RCAs down the center console to the new amp in the trunk to avoid the interference and the noise is gone. Since the new speaker wire was routed through the door jamb boots like the factory wire, I assume it was the low voltage signal to the amp causing the problem.
 
its definitely not going to be a problem on the speaker wire side of things, the amount of interference would never be loud enough to hear, however if you amplify that interference up then it definitely could be.
 
that the low voltage signal was routed from the head unit near the advance track control unit at the driver side footwell. This introduced feedback into the speaker signal which was then amplified and came through the speakers. I routed the RCAs down the center console to the new amp in the trunk to avoid the interference and the noise is gone. Since the new speaker wire was routed through the door jamb boots like the factory wire, I assume it was the low voltage signal to the amp causing the problem.

I wonder if I can relocate the oem wiring similar to yours to get rid of the noise. If I ever have the interior apart this might be an easy way to test it out.

Small update - Rear LCA bushings are getting noisy. I am working on sourcing replacement bushings as opposed to racinggreen/deutscheparts, and the all expensive pre-pressed arm from Jag/Ford. INteresting to note - my enghbor has a 5.0 Jag XF, and the toe links and rear LCAS look to be identical to the LS. I made this 3x3 picture to show the current state of my rear right suspension. Rear Left looks the same, and the front is still in good shape. Will probably overhaul the rear, then the front.

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Also, this weekend before friday night dinner, noticed some coolant under the driver's side fender. Upon further review - looks like the degas finally gave out.

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Ford dealer wanted $265 for the tank
Lincoln dealer wanted $335 for the tank

Got a $13 cap from Ford, and ordered a new tank from an LVC member. Thanks again LVC!

Car should be back together this week, I have a few fun things sitting around as well that I cant wait to get on.
 
While I wait for my new tank to come in - Decided to fab up some additional cold air routing to the K&N.

If anyone wants additional details on it I can share, tube is from "Spectre" at advance auto - surprisingly worked very well. I did something like this on my gen1, and it worked very well.

IMG_7377_zpst9loforj.jpg


Inner edge of the bumper is roughly 2.5" from the mounting tabs on the rebar. I made sure to secure the hose to the rad shroud with this dimension in mind. Zipties around the hose and through the mounting holes on the rebar, along with the tight tolerance of the hole I cut in the shroud - keep the hose in place.

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Once the bumper is on

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Flange mounted under the airbox panel, with two M6x1.0 bolts and nylon washers to keep the flange spaced and secure.

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from above

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Hopefully this will bring some more fresh air to the intake.

Can't wait to get this car back on the road! In other news -- I picked up an XCAL4 from Torrie that's waiting to go on as well, and am excited to feel those shifts again on her. This coolant leak was BAD timing.
 
While I wait for my new tank to come in - Decided to fab up some additional cold air routing to the K&N.

If anyone wants additional details on it I can share, tube is from "Spectre" at advance auto - surprisingly worked very well. I did something like this on my gen1, and it worked very well.


Hopefully this will bring some more fresh air to the intake.

Here and I just used dryer vent hose from Home Depot.....
 
Last time (gen1) I used a brown gutter extension from the Depot. :) I liked how this one could be bent and would remain its shape. Both get the job done for sure!
 
Last time (gen1) I used a brown gutter extension from the Depot. :) I liked how this one could be bent and would remain its shape. Both get the job done for sure!

Yours is soooooo much prettier!!!! :)
 
New tank arrived, so I went to fill her up last night after installing it and running a traditional worm clamp on that back hose (what a pain to get to to, btw). Per the fill/bleed instructions, I opened the engine fill and degas, and began filling at the degas, i was so concentrated on watching my pour that I didn't realize coolant was coming out of the engine fill location until it was too late. A good amount of coolant poured all over the front of the motor. Based on the instructions in the repair manual i was anticipating filling up the degas, then moving over to top off the engine fill before turning the car over and letting it warm up.

Did I miss something?

I am getting a new belt today, as the old ( 4 months old, ugh) belt got pretty wet with coolant (among other things, but I think the belt is the only item i Need to worry about). I have to wipe down some other parts so I dont mistake them as a future leak. I hate cleaning up coolant.
 
Paging LVC for some 1st time ls cooling system advice.

I think I may have too much fluid or some air trapped. Topped off both holes tonight, and started her up. Closed the valve when fluid streamed out, heat was hot after 5-8 minutes, cracked open the bleed - and it leaked some more so I shut it. Degas level never went down and as the car got warm it started leaking out of the degas cap/hole. Car did not overheat, and the heater/hvac is working fine. just lots of fluid coming out of the cap on the degas.

Car is cooling now - but the upper rad hose feels a little spongey if I squeeze it. So I am wondering if I managed to trap air. Any ideas? I drained from the petcock (about a gallon or so, plus some spillage) and didnt put much more in that what came out. So I am less prone to believe its overfilled. But at this point I am a bit stumped.
 
Spongy hose when hot (or even still pretty warm) means it's not pressurizing. This means there's a leak somewhere.
(Even a whole lot of trapped air will not cause the hose to be soft or spongy.)
Are you certain that the new tank if Motorcraft and not Dorman (or any of the other brands it is sold as)?
 
Yes, new motorcraft tank and degas cap. Certain.

Checked the car this morning and the tank has gone down to a little bit above the cold max fill line. No signs of any external leak. Degas was the last of the old coolant parts to be replaced. so everything is about 5-6 months old cooling system wise.
 

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