*tach tach tach*

[forcedbird94]

Thats the sound my top end makes when i first start my mark.
an oil change seem to help but after a few miles it came back.
its only when its cold
i want it gone

IDEAS

 

[Markviiiedrea]

Timing chain tensioners, you have to pull half your accessories off and remover the timing cover off the motor. An inexpensive part but an evolved job.

 

[forcedbird94]

Timing chain tensioners, you have to pull half your accessories off and remover the timing cover off the motor. An inexpensive part but an evolved job.

AWWWWWWWW DANG not something i look foward to how long you think it would last there is 107k on the motor and i whent ahead and did the rod bearings when i droped the cratle and pan

 

[NoLimit95]

Does it only do it for about 3 to 5 seconds or until completely warmed up? Almost every Mark makes the ticking tapping sound when first started. It's pretty much normal. Using fully synthetic oil eliminates a lot of it. Normal conventional oil doesn't.

 

[Markviiiedrea]

Does it only do it for about 3 to 5 seconds or until completely warmed up? Almost every Mark makes the ticking tapping sound when first started. It's pretty much normal. Using fully synthetic oil eliminates a lot of it. Normal conventional oil doesn't.

^Like he said, you could go a while if you upgrade the oil; maybe even use a little thicker oil if it is not cold out where you are. Mine has been doing it for the last 40K, although she sits allot more now that she is not a DD

 

[NoLimit95]

And that 10 second run you have phrased after your sig pic... good luck with that. Hope you have deeeep pockets, unless you're talking about the 1/8th

 

[UltimateSVT]

Thats the sound my top end makes when i first start my mark.
an oil change seem to help but after a few miles it came back.
its only when its cold
i want it gone

IDEAS

Timing chain tensioners, you have to pull half your accessories off and remover the timing cover off the motor. An inexpensive part but an evolved job.

Does it only do it for about 3 to 5 seconds or until completely warmed up? Almost every Mark makes the ticking tapping sound when first started. It's pretty much normal. Using fully synthetic oil eliminates a lot of it. Normal conventional oil doesn't.

My '93 did that every time I'd start it cold. I bought it that way w/89k on it & sold it that way w/109k on it.

 

[Modular97LSC]

put the volume up and forget about it...thats what I do.

 

[Stangman]

Lucas oil treatment. I always run that stuff.... probably why my GT has almost a quarter of a million miles.

 

[forcedbird94]

its only like 10 secs it dose it but when im chilling with my car buds (mostly hondas) it embarasses me (excuse my spelling) not that im embarassed by my 3500 pound 140 mph mark but they like to talk smack.

what oil you guys recomend

 

[forcedbird94]

And that 10 second run you have phrased after your sig pic... good luck with that. Hope you have deeeep pockets, unless you're talking about the 1/8th

ill have deep pockets once i finish skool lol

 

[NoLimit95]

its only like 10 secs it dose it but when im chilling with my car buds (mostly hondas) it embarasses me (excuse my spelling) not that im embarassed by my 3500 pound 140 mph mark but they like to talk smack.

what oil you guys recommend?

I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 5W-30 and I get it at Wal-Mart. 5 quart jug for around $25 to $26 and then one additional quart because you'll need 6 quarts total. I always get a Motorcraft, Wix or Mobile 1 oil filter. Don't buy one from Wal-Mart. Their oil filters suck. Fram is a no no. Purolator is junk too IMO. This is what you want. Not necessarily from that website but just to give you the idea.

[url]http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQLincolnQQMark_VIIIQQMotorcraftQQOil_FilterQQ19931998QQMIFL820S.html?apwcid=productads-apwiduMVtRv9-apwidU3AOST9[/URL]

I would prefer to have a Mobile 1 filter but kinda hard to find around here. Here is something else you might want to read.

This TSB is being republished in its entirety to include the latest level parts and to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE:

Some vehicles may exhibit a brief metallic "rapping" noise from 2 to 5 seconds after starting the engine. The noise may be caused by low secondary cam chain tension during start-up, due to bleed down of the hydraulic secondary cam chain tensioner.

ACTION:

Install improved design secondary cam chain tensioners in engine. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

FYI, labor for this operation is listed as 11.0 hours.

 

[Right on the Mark]

It would be cheaper just putting a Accusump in it lol.

 

[PenGun]

I used to get cam chain noise about 1/3 of the time when I started from cold, a couple of secs max.

I put Royal Purple and a NAPA Platinum filter in mine and I rarely get the cam chain noise anymore and only for a sec if it does occur. It's quite a bit colder out now as well.

 

[Jacksun]

Injectors stiction. Through some revx in there.

 

[jake_black94]

I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 5W-30 and I get it at Wal-Mart. 5 quart jug for around $25 to $26 and then one additional quart because you'll need 6 quarts total. I always get a Motorcraft, Wix or Mobile 1 oil filter. Don't buy one from Wal-Mart. Their oil filters suck. Fram is a no no. Purolator is junk too IMO. This is what you want. Not necessarily from that website but just to give you the idea.

[url]http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQLincolnQQMark_VIIIQQMotorcraftQQOil_FilterQQ19931998QQMIFL820S.html?apwcid=productads-apwiduMVtRv9-apwidU3AOST9[/URL]

I would prefer to have a Mobile 1 filter but kinda hard to find around here

NoLimit:

I've spent some time lurking on BITOG, and as far as I'm aware, Purolator manufactures the Motorcraft filters you can buy at parts stores. Of course, the bypass valve pressure and some other specs could be different, but internally, they're essentially the same filter.

-Jake

 

[NoLimit95]

NoLimit:

I've spent some time lurking on BITOG, and as far as I'm aware, Purolator manufactures the Motorcraft filters you can buy at parts stores. Of course, the bypass valve pressure and some other specs could be different, but internally, they're essentially the same filter.

-Jake

The Motorcraft has the "Wix" design at the threaded end of the filter with the Purolator having it's bypass at the far end. That's the difference. Someone on Youtube is cutting them open and shows this. I think Ford recommends the Wix bypass design.

 

[jake_black94]

I hadn't seen those, I'll have to check them out. Regardless, the Motorcraft is really all I use... the silicone anti-drainback valve is the biggest benefit of the FL-820S.

 

[racecougar]

^Like he said, you could go a while if you upgrade the oil; maybe even use a little thicker oil if it is not cold out where you are. Mine has been doing it for the last 40K, although she sits allot more now that she is not a DD

You'd actually want a thinner viscosity at startup, such as a 0W-30 oil.

Lucas oil treatment. I always run that stuff.... probably why my GT has almost a quarter of a million miles.

I'd recommend reading through some of the threads over on BITOG about that stuff.

It would be cheaper just putting a Accusump in it lol.