wtf.... can this be fixed

so replace the fuse block and the alternator wire,battery wire , ground wires as well.....
 
so replace the fuse block and the alternator wire,battery wire , ground wires as well.....

excellent start. and try to find out what shorted out.
like i said, 4 gauge stereo wire is an excellent replacement and easy to find.
 
okay fix the wireing temp and she ran just fine but the alternator started to spark....I unpluged after it that and checked for corrision cleaned it and replugged back in. the wires from the alternator were VERY corried were they are soldered together cut it past the corrision spot. and striped and cleaned it and crimped a new ring terminal and connected it back to the fuse box and then nothing happened.. was able to drive to a different side of the apartment complex and nothing happened.. so IDK on what to do ........
 
nothing happened what? it ran fine or it died? take it for a short ride around the block , or let it idle for like a half hour and watch it. looks loike you found a couple corrosion issues they can be bad.
 
the wire from the alternator the battery wire that connects to the fuse box. the alternator connector the 2 wire that run from the alternator wire were soldered together with the alternator heavy gauge.They were soldered together and then heat shrink together and they were corroded and so i cutt that off and ran a remote turn on wire from the yellow/red wire from the alternator and ring terminal that to the fuse box. then the alternator heavy gauge wire connected with that remote wire. cleaned all the corrosion off the battery terminals and the connectors and reconnected everything then the alternator sparked and i freaked out and started the car and drove it about a block ina half and ect so she ran but im iffy about driving it a long distance.....
 
When connecting the wire back to the top of the alternator, it sparked or just sparked while running? If sparked when connected, it sounds like you fixed a corrosion problem and nothing to worry about but like mentioned above, I would let it run in it's parking spot for at least 10 min and keep an eye on it. Check to see what the voltage is, going to the battery. Should be 13.7 to 14.1 or so while running. If you see no smoke or nothing melting, I would say you have fixed it.
 
cool thanks man ..... wow im hoping that shell be ok like i said when i started this im in the middle of moving and shes the only car i have nolimit would u still replace all the wireing from the alternator to the battery to the starter and the ground wire ?
 
say ur peice id like to hear everyone feed back on my situation.....and to everyone and there advice thanks to cobra thanks man .... just came in the apartment and shes running just came bk in the apartment after she was running for 10 minutes no voltage drop and no burnt wires or anything... O YEAH
 
Awesome to hear. Definitely keep an eye and nose open for a while. I say keep testing. Headlights on, AC on high, etc. and see if anything unusual happens.

Feel the cables to be sure they don't seem very hot, and shake them around a little
 
its a temporary fix til i can get the money for the big 3 upgrade.... for the ground anyone know the ground pionts for the battery?
 
You could get this: [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-MARK-VIII-WIRING-WIRE-HARNESS-BATTERY-CABLE-POSITIVE-NEGATIVE-TERMINAL-/200768575407?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMark+VIII&hash=item2ebebd57af&vxp=mtr[/URL]

Or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-1997-LINCOLN-MARK-VIII-ENGINE-MOTOR-UNDER-HOOD-WIRE-HARNESS-WIRING-/200768524993?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMark+VIII&hash=item2ebebc92c1&vxp=mtr

Then you would have fresh wire like there should be and then go to the stereo shop and get about 5ft. of 2 gauge or 4 gauge wire in black so it doesn't show as much and ground to the block. Seems like someone mentioned a bolt down on the block that could be used for grounding and then one on the frame as close to the battery as possible. Upgrade the alternator wire with to 2 or 4 gauge wire and a new ring. The wire isn't that much by the foot. Just measure and maybe add a foot to each piece you buy so you know you have enough.
 
no limit the cars still safe to drive with my temp fix.... right no sparks or anything?
 
K, I'm not en electric diagnostics technician. I'm just going by what you're telling me is happening. If it catches fire, then it catches fire. You say you got rid of corrosion and now it's running for 10 minutes without any issues, so I'm assuming you fixed a corrosion problem. That's all I can say.

I'm also suggesting to get the above because it hasn't been temporarily burned and melted and then adding the appropriate grounds where they need to go for additional grounding and then another wire for the alternator in a larger size.
 
Personally, if it were me, I'd go buy one of the smaller fire extinguishers to keep within easy access in the car, at least temporarily until you've driven the car a few months with no issues or until you feel completely safe. My '72 had an underhood fire once. Luckily, I just had it sitting idling at my house when it happened, so I was able to run get a bucket of water and put it out before it caused any damage besides just burning up one wire. If I had been on the road and something like that had happened, the whole car probably would have burned to the ground.

Anyway, I hope you fixed the problem, and I think NoLimit has a good suggestion as well, as far as improving your ground.
 

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