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MarkOfDeath

MarkOfDeath

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Well during winter Im holding off on the mods but, I want to have a pile of them waiting for me to install come spring.

right now I got
3500 edge racing Stall
4.10s w/ posi
exhaust 2 1/4 with force mufflers
SCT Chip burnt by Lonnie @ Blue Oval Chips
BBK Under drive
trans cooler

Well what do you think is a good mod to do next, Im thinking kooks headers or even FRPP shortys
 
Electric water pump
MMx driveshaft
Kooks headers
Cobra short runner intake
Dynotune
 
driller said:
Electric water pump
MMx driveshaft
Kooks headers
Cobra short runner intake
Dynotune
Click to expand...

That should be enough to last ya 2 years.... Perfect list right there. Maybe those nice 18" bullits you were checking out. Give that Mark some better styling.
 
ya, rims first, my chrome is mess up real bad, its peeling everywhere and rim leaks like a mofo, I think I eletric water pump is in order, hows the drain on the car, does it pull alot of amps and volts, at the light with the heater on lights, radio and Its reading 11.6-12.7 but once I get moving its sometimes 14.4 volts, this is with a new alt to
 
MarkOfDeath said:
... I think I eletric water pump is in order, hows the drain on the car, does it pull alot of amps and volts, at the light with the heater on lights, radio and Its reading 11.6-12.7 but once I get moving its sometimes 14.4 volts, this is with a new alt to
Click to expand...

You need to fix that. From your description, you are discharging the battery at idle. I noticed the same with the underdrive crank pulley. What I did was install a smaller alternator pulley to pick the rpm up back to charging. Of course this was AFTER an alternator upgrade. I never considered the underdrive pulley until the alternator was was replaced with a hi-po unit that pumped out loads of juice at idle(with the stock pulleys).

At 700 rpm idle speed, with the stock crank pulley of 6-3/4" diameter and stock alternator pulley of 2-5/8" diameter, the alternator is spinning 1800 rpm. Change the crank pulley to a 5-1/4" diameter and now the alternator is only spinning 1400 rpms which in my case was not enough even with the upgraded alternator. Put on a 1-7/8" alternator pulley and the alternator rpms are back up to 1960 rpms which in my case put the alternator speed at idle back into the charging zone.

You can find pulleys @ this site.
 
I'm completely redoing the induction of the car. 98 Cobra intake manifold, slightly ported/polished, BBK 62mm ported throttle body, JLT cold air intake and I'm reusing the stock MAF with the 9 inch conical I have right now. To make the intake fit with no problems i'm getting the Cobra R hood from LMS. I want to see how fast I can get this thing to go with the street tires and then see the times drop a large amount with drag radials.
 
95LSC32V said:
... I want to see how fast I can get this thing to go with the street tires and then see the times drop a large amount with drag radials.
Click to expand...

I dunno if you'll see a large drop. I definitely noticed better consistency, but not necessarily significantly better times.
 
Once I have drag radials I will be able to launch from stall speed instead of from idle. Right now if I try to launch from stall speed I blow the tires off every single time.
 
so the 3g alt pully fits fine, and I need the 7/8 one. man this is a cheap fix.
 
MarkOfDeath said:
so the 3g alt pully fits fine, and I need the 7/8 one. man this is a cheap fix.
Click to expand...

If you had no problems at idle before the underdrive crank pulley, the 1-7/8" alternator pulley will put the alternator back in the charging zone. If you add an electric water pump with the battery discharging at idle, you are asking for trouble.

EDIT: WARNING! Use an impact wrench to take off the alternator nut. Do not use channel locks or pipe wrench on the pulley!
 
driller said:
If you had no problems at idle before the underdrive crank pulley, the 1-7/8" alternator pulley will put the alternator back in the charging zone. If you add an electric water pump with the battery discharging at idle, you are asking for trouble.

EDIT: WARNING! Use an impact wrench to take off the alternator nut. Do not use channel locks or pipe wrench on the pulley!
Click to expand...
Some retards in my automotive class tried using an open end adjustable to get the alt pulley off. I told them to use an impact and they said "it would spin the alternator though"
 
Well, I knew better but didn't have an impact wrench. So I wrapped the pulley with a rag and held the pulley with a mondo set of channel locks and used a socket and breaker bar. It wasn't really that difficult. Problem was after tightening the new installation, I went to put away the old pulley and was suprised to see teeth marks on the pulley from the channel locks. To my dismay, the same was true of the new one. After cleaning up the marks with a 3 corner file, it was smooth, but it is still not good for the belt as I can see some black belt dust accumulate on the face of the alternator next to the pulley. If it was a daily driver, it would need replaced. :mad:
 
the alt pully will spin if there no belt on it, but it doesnt matter the bolt will still come off with the impact in about 4 seconds
 
or you could just use a socket on one, and an open end box on the one next to it, turn the box to "tight" and the socket to loose" thats always how i do my pullies.
 
What's Next

Brad if you get the Kooks coated they will really wow you as they look like pieces of art work, they are bueatiful looking. I got the ones with 3" collectors, and have 3" all the way out.
 
Santa & The Elves are busy, can't wait for them to finish :D

100_2497 -2.jpg


100_2494-2.jpg
 
MrWilson said:
or you could just use a socket on one, and an open end box on the one next to it, turn the box to "tight" and the socket to loose" thats always how i do my pullies.
Click to expand...


?????

I guess I'm not following that. Are you saying the pulley is double nutted??

Impact is the way to go. If you can't get your hands on one, the next best procedure is to use a "belt" wrench. You wrap the belt around the pulley to hold it and use a socket to break the nut loose. You can even do this many times on the car.
 
can you explain about the motor as to whats done to it, besides S/C
 
Its a total reman forged, running 10:1 and "C" heads, and the KB is the 2.2L with intercooler
 
Roadboss said:
Way too much!!
Click to expand...

will turn into not enough when you first smash down on the gas, you will have fun and alot of it
 
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