What the heck kind of chip do I have "MAX RPM"

vikingdiesel

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Turns out I dont have a HYPERTECH chip, instead it says MAX RPM "BTLO". This could by my hesitation issue
 
whats what I thought, i was looking for you on my other post. The car just bogs, should I remove the 80mm MASS AIR FLOW and just put everything back to stock?
 
whats what I thought, i was looking for you on my other post. The car just bogs, should I remove the 80mm MASS AIR FLOW and just put everything back to stock?

YES.. ditch the big meter that you dont need.
pull the chip.. and see if the issues subside.

MAXRPM sounds like a LMS chip from Geno... if I'm not mistaken.
BTLO doesnt sound right either.

Are you sure it isn't BTC0?
 
i dont think its the MAX RPM motorsports, they look do good for this chip. Also, on the bottom of it, a small chip says "HYUNDAI KOREA"
 
verfied.. BTL0 isn't a valid mark 8 PCM code.

second verified BTL0 isn't a FORD PCM code either...lol
 
YES.. ditch the big meter that you dont need.
pull the chip.. and see if the issues subside.

MAXRPM sounds like a LMS chip from Geno... if I'm not mistaken.
BTLO doesnt sound right either.

Are you sure it isn't BTC0?

it might... lol.... it was written with a permanent marker, it might say BTCO, but kinda looks more like BTLO
 
look on the sticker on the PCM and get the REAL catch code.
it'll be on the PCM connector where the wireing harness plugs into it.

should be 4 digits alpha numeric with the last digit being a NUMBER.

looking for
MLX0
BTC0
or something similar

what year IS the car, that will help narrow it down
 
whats what I thought, i was looking for you on my other post. The car just bogs, should I remove the 80mm MASS AIR FLOW and just put everything back to stock?

n00bs...

WTF did I tell you? This may come as a shock to you, but I read a pamphlet on Mark VIII's once.

Catch code is on the PCM. PRINTED, not written in Magic Marker.
 
it might... lol.... it was written with a permanent marker, it might say BTCO, but kinda looks more like BTLO

like I said, look on the PCM itself, and ignore what some Korean Hundai guy scribbled with a sharpie..
lol
 
n00bs...

WTF did I tell you? This may come as a shock to you, but I read a pamphlet on Mark VIII's once.

Catch code is on the PCM. PRINTED, not written in Magic Marker.

I know.. right?
HAHA
 
here it is:

PICT0001.gif

PICT0002.gif

PICT0003.gif

PICT0005.gif
 
WTF is that knock off crap???

GET RID OF THAT IMMEDIATELY or face a BAN!!!
 
who knows what that is, prob was a blank chip with someone's program burned on it. My LMS chip is a diablo sport blank....so i don't know what yours is.....best thing to do is test the car with it in and out and decide whats better
 
is it just me, or does it look like some "budding electronics" guy tried to "resolder those connection" from the connetor to the board?

If so...that thing is probably hosed...no doubt no heat sink was used.

get a real chip from a real SCT tuner, and dont risk your engine and or PCM using that cobbled "thing".

I know you "have it".... but your gonna be better off in the long run getting a good chip from a trusted vendor.

that doesnt look like the LMS chip I used to have, but he did change chip vendors sometime after the fact


OH.. that is most DEFINATELY BTCO
 
Something about that chip makes me want to find who made it and punch them in the throat....
 
so its not from GENO? Also, back to that MASS AIR, the MASS AIR sensor is the same, its just the tube (pipe) is larger in diameter. Would that still cause my bog? Also, after how long will it take for the car to remap itself? Maybe I just have to keep driving?
 
Pull the battery to reset. In fact you should have pulled the battery to pull the chip!

Why would you put a larger tube in there? The throttle body is the restriction point. Putting a larger tube, MAF or anything upstream does ZERO for gains no matter what some seller says. Its called physics. Now if you go with a bigger TB you may want to consider a bigger MAF and tube. But even then stock should work to an extent.

By the way, the cars breath better than they exhaust. Bigger gains come from replacing stock exhaust if you have no already.
 
actually the restriction in the system isn't the throttle body either.

it's either the intake port OR the intake valve and there is nothing to can bolt onto the outside of the motor that is going to have ANY bearing on that restriction OTHER than a BLOWER.

Just say NO to Bigger intake tubes, MAF sensors and Throttle bodies.

The larger Throttle bodies dont measure up.
The larger throttle plates create a problem due to the "extra area" of the thottle blades, but it's not the blades themselves, it's the "area AROUND" the blades where air leaks PAST the blades.

this causes idle control issues..due to the additional air flow getting past the blades
 
so its not from GENO? Also, back to that MASS AIR, the MASS AIR sensor is the same, its just the tube (pipe) is larger in diameter. Would that still cause my bog? Also, after how long will it take for the car to remap itself? Maybe I just have to keep driving?

NO dont keep driving it.

a larger tube COULD cause air fuel control issues, and no "off the shelf" tune is going to be "correct".

Anytime you make changes to the intake tract it can and WILL have bad effects on your AF ratio...

Since you have no way to determine if your in a "safe or a dangerous" zone, I would REMOVE that chip, and or put the intake tract back to stock.

Please tell me you dont have an open element cone air filter on there as well!
 

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