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Didn't know they still made `em? Are they made in U.S. now? don-ohio ^)
Don't know where they're made but was told they're owned by Michelin.
Was planning on replacing plastic parts on my '06 with 88K miles. But then found a leak in the upper corner of the radiator and ordered a new one from Rock @ $287. Should be here Wednesday with a new Degas bottle cap. Should I just change out the upper and lower hoses while I am at it, although they still seem ok? I guess that's up to me but, what parts would be logical to change while replacing radiator, from a convenience pov?
Ordered Qty 20 DORMAN 611-229 Lug Nuts
Woo Woo! JR. Diy Mech strikes again. I reattached the front bumper skin due to a rebar ripping it out. Nice and solid again. Still cant figure out why they Denau manual asked to remove the headlamp! Just a small 1 inch crack that I will likely fill, then maybe paint next.
Touched up the faded gray grill with matte black to match lower bumper & wheels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How did you get your grill separated like that, Patrick? Might be a dumb question. I had mine off recently to paint the faded gray just like yours, but thought I had to tape off all the chrome. I didn't see a way that it would separate, though it wasn't my main project so I probably overlooked it.
Yeah I just pulled mine off I see no way to separate those pieces. I'm mad now because yours looks so good with that simple "refresh" paint job. The faded gray really diminishes the front end of the car.
Can be done... There's a thread here somewhere...
It was actually quite complicated, including breaking the plastic weld on the opposite side of the emblem and unscrewing the 4 threaded bolts at the top on the backside. I should have taken pictures as I went along but it was too frustrating as it was. Totally worth it though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Better trunk lighting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Enjoyed getting my first of many ETC Failsafe Mode messages on the dash, accompanied by the lovely check engine light, ABS light, Traction Control light as well as the lovely CHECK ADVANCETRAC message. Christmas lights going up early I guess on the cluster.
Happened to me earlier this year. Changed out the ABS wheel sensor and all lights disappeared. Was told that I needed tp change the yaw sensor ($375) but as I said all lights and codes went away when I just changed the cheaper, easier to replace speed sensor on one wheel. "Well, i just changed out the L/R ABS sensor and the ABS light is now off, and the Advance trac light, as well ! Leading me to believe the error codes are related and or the Ford scanner is misleading. Glad I didn't shell out the $375 for the Yaw sensor."
My program only showed the ABS code being for that right rear wheel sensor. I just put a new one on about an hour ago, and all is well. Its crazy how much these vehicles depend on electronics that can/will easily fail with time. These new cars scare me. (PS. I use a $25 wifi OBDII adapter, ELM27 and the free Forscan program on a laptop)
Yes,it IS electronics overkill. We don't need no stinking PCs...LOL! don-ohio ^)
Yes, because carburetors, drum brakes, and manual steering were all so very great. I don't know why the car companies think that consumers want better cars...
Nah,they went overboard and you know it,Joe. There IS a happy medium,but the LS is WAY on the extreme electronic side of that balance. don-ohio ^)
sounds like somebody hasnt stepped inside or looked under the hood of any cars made in this decade... the LS is nowhere near as complicated or as computer controlled as most new cars so I guess you better adapt or get used to repairing stuff to keep the oldies on the road.
Don't worry about me................ALL my stuff stays on the road and runs right! The LSes are just trying to do too much with the PCM,that's all. If the newer cars are worse,then they're worse. The LS is bad enough. don-ohio ^)
Most of the "electronic" issues in the LS can be traced to the CAN bus network - its level of sophistication, its susceptibility to RFI/EMI "noise" and the fact that Ford/Jaguar decided to use the spot welded unibody as a ground path back to the battery. Remember that the design of the LS dates back over 20 years now. The Gen II electronic parking brake control was one of the first on the market. "Bugs" that we see on a daily basis with our cars electronic systems have been addressed and for the most part engineered out of more modern and sophisticated vehicles. As an aside, I personally think that running a heavy ground wire from the battery negative contact point in the trunk up to the engine block may help with potential multi-plane grounding issues in our LS. There is just way too much resistance through all the spot welds in the unibody, especially as the vehicle ages and micro point corrosion become apparent. It may have been quick, easy, cost less and overall expedient to do so when designing and building the car, but 11-18 years (and wet, salty winters) later after 50-200K miles, maybe not so much for the owners. I have relocated batteries in several vehicles over the years for different reasons and I have always had the best results when I run both cables to the relocated battery location. As always of course, YMMV.
I might be speaking with you about this - as I have a lot of extra cable lying around and wouldn't mind testing this theory.
Are you running rear wheels all around?
Changed out both rear calipers and right rear Lower Control Arm on my 04 LSE last night.
I was thinkin,,,,putting all of your 04 stuff in a single thread about it would make it easier to follow. you have done a lot and posted a lot about it and all the pictures.and the story of finding it and driving it home I think all you have done is very interesting and deserves it's own place. just my three cents worth