What did you do to your LS today?

EBK said:
Also need to find out why its pulling hard right. I just had an alignment done about 6 months ago.
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It's not unheard of for an alignment shop to set something up incorrectly, or for there to be an issue with their machine if the problem started with the alignment. I would take it back in for a checkup, especially with new tires as a bad alignment can tear up a set of tires in just a few hundred miles. You may also have a defective tire if the problem started with the new tires. In any case, the alignment shop can tell you what is wrong. It may even be those toe links.
 
LMAO. Over heated on my way home from work. Cracked thermostat housing. Part will be in Tuesday running me about $175 to repair. Also have a line on a pearl white 2002 LS V8 with 114k miles for $3,500 clean, one owner with vehicle maintenance history. I am going to look at it tomorrow morning.
 
while this warning will probably once again fall on deaf ears, Ill say it regardless...


since one of your parts has gotten to the point where it has failed, every other piece of that same plastic in the cooling system has degraded to the point that they are also about to fail. you really should be replacing them all at the same time as they have reached their end of life instead of letting them fail one at a time which keeps taking your car out while you wait for parts again. more importantly letting your car overheat each time this happens.

hell you will be very lucky if some of the other parts don't just fall apart while you disassemble everything to make the repair or as your are putting it all back together.
 


Just catching up on the 04 LSE progress, some pics and such.


Got the front outer tie rods in. Pardon the nasty looking rotors.

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Fresh 0W20 oil w/ OEM filter

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Got some parts in. Can't wait to get that exhaust done up.

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Some new vent ducts for my wife's 03 also new engine cover hold down pin for my 04

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A few UCA's for both the 03 and 04, got all JAGUAR's from Tasca this time around. (received offset brands previous '01 order)

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Discovered the A/C compressor leaking on the 04 LSE last night.

Changed out the fuel filter while doing the oil and tie rods.

Waiting on some rear toe adjust linkages to arrive. Have some rear swaybar end links to go in the 04


Fun fun fun, nothing but $$$ out the window.

04 also needs a fresh OEM battery. Stupid Canadian winters!

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I know you will - but please update on your LSE's exhaust setup. Looking at buying that SAME muffler. :)

Nice pics/update. I just got my '06 and the front upper CA's have torn boots so I may be hitting you up for those part #'s shortly
 
BigRigLS said:
Joe, this is close to what I seen last night on the LSE compressor, perhaps a little more orange or yellow but definitely towards the green side and somewhat tacky.

NeongreenFordrefrigerant.jpg
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Ahhhhh.... Leaking compressor. I've had two fail where the front bolts onto the rear casing. I had to replace the compressor both times. A complete unit was just as expensive as one I had to build..
 
ugh! any way of electrically disabling it until I can get to it so as to not do any further damage. Would pulling a fuse do it?

EDIT - - - -
this leaking compressor is most likely the source of that nasty clunking ticking noise I get on start up for about 5 seconds on very cold days. On restarts it does not make the noise. Makes the noise regardless if I have A/C defrost or Auto on/off on engine Start.
 
So, I've had three failures. All had oil (not quite as green as the picture) on the compressors just like in the picture above. The 1st one, the dealer diagnosed and said there was no repair other than to replace it.
On the second one, I assumed they were still right and I replaced it. On the 3rd one (the compressor the dealer replaced), I tried just replacing the seal I linked to above. That was a few months ago, and so far no leak. I had assumed the leak was coming from where the compressor was bolted together, but apparently not so.
 
This video talks about the control valve, but it also shows the o-ring that I am talking about (and does mention that it is a common leak source). They get to the o-ring at about the 2:22 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPUHOnei3g8

Of course, if your compressor is already making a noise, it may already be toast, and you may be looking at flushing out the whole system and replacing the expansion valve...
 
Ugh, yeah I had already found that vid and viewed it. As I feared that clunking noise means I'm opening the wallet even more now.

Great cheap 1300$ low miles LSE this is turning out to be.
 
BigRigLS said:
I've never dealt with anything like this before ... I'm going to need some more orange juice, I bet.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1006.htm~gen~ref.htm

I'll look into it some more when I get back next week. I'm hopeful I could disable it for now somehow.
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You can change the o-ring with the compressor on the car. If you do have to replace the whole compressor, it is not that bad of a job. It is a slight puzzle to figure out how to turn it to get it out and back into the cavity that it is in. If you go complete DIY, get a good vacuum pump (few hundred $), not one of those $30 ones that are powered by an air compressor. They can't pull low enough.
 
BigRigLS said:
ugh! any way of electrically disabling it until I can get to it so as to not do any further damage. Would pulling a fuse do it?

EDIT - - - -
this leaking compressor is most likely the source of that nasty clunking ticking noise I get on start up for about 5 seconds on very cold days. On restarts it does not make the noise. Makes the noise regardless if I have A/C defrost or Auto on/off on engine Start.
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I believe all you need to do is unplug the compressor.


joegr said:
This video talks about the control valve, but it also shows the o-ring that I am talking about (and does mention that it is a common leak source).
Of course, if your compressor is already making a noise, it may already be toast, and you may be looking at flushing out the whole system and replacing the expansion valve...
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Oddly enough... When my 2000 was pretty new (still under warranty) I fired it up one morning to go to work. I heard the most awful metallic grinding noise that lasted about 30 seconds; then all was quiet. A couple miles down the road I noticed I wasn't getting cooled or dried air from the vents. Off to the dealer after work. Turns out the compressor ate itself; disintegrating inside. The repair was just the compressor and dryer. They didn't need to replace the expansion valve. Other than replacing the compressor and dryer a few years back everything has worked just fine. Its still on the original expansion valve. I can only assume they flushed the system.

All this to say that you may not need a new expansion valve, especially as you seem to have caught it early. I would seriously consider getting the system flushed.
 
BigRigLS said:
ugh! any way of electrically disabling it until I can get to it so as to not do any further damage. Would pulling a fuse do it?

EDIT - - - -
this leaking compressor is most likely the source of that nasty clunking ticking noise I get on start up for about 5 seconds on very cold days. On restarts it does not make the noise. Makes the noise regardless if I have A/C defrost or Auto on/off on engine Start.
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Try pushing the A/C button. Mine remains off even after restart as long as I don't push Auto.
 
Well the ignition key cylinder on my 2004 V8 Sport decided to act up on me for the first time this evening when I was leaving work. I cycled the key to accessory position before turning it off and pulled the key out - which it did not want to release right away nor smoothly. Something caught my eye -was there something that may have been stuck on the end of the key? Pocket lint of packaging tape - did I use the key to open a package earlier in the day? I checked the key and then reinserted it into the cylinder and it would not rotate. I worked it feverishly for 15-20 minutes. I even did a search on my smart phone and found a couple suggestions. Then all of a sudden (after a whole lot of cussing and then a quite prior with a pray or two) it turned as if nothing was ever wrong. I drove it home and in the driveway tried it several times and it did not lock up again. If it wasn't as cold as a "witch's tit in a brass bra" outside, I would have pulled the dash covers and removed the ignition key cylinder for inspection. I still may shoot some dry film lubricant into the cylinder in the morning.

Anyone else ever have a similar problem?
 
Yes, I have. I also have another issue that, if the car gets too cold in the inside, it won't start. The key cylinder or whatever in the dash has to be above freezing or it won't read the key. The alarm goes off. Then it stops. It's weird. If I know it will be freezing, where the car is, I literally plug in a small place heater and set it in the car. Who's ever heard of a car needing a place heater?
 
Robot said:
Try pushing the A/C button. Mine remains off even after restart as long as I don't push Auto.
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joegr said:
Or defrost...
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Isn't there a way to disable the auto AC feature? Was it just hold the AC button for 5 seconds or something? I couldn't find it. Maybe it was a different car. What I did find was that the AC won't automatically turn on under 2°C/35°F
 
Disclaimer 1: Temperatures are estimates

Disclaimer 2: I got it from an 02 Owner's manual
 
I'm gonna look in my LS manual for electrical,and if there's only one power wire going to the AC clutch,I'm gonna run it thru a toggle switch under the dash. I'll be derned if want the AC coming on below 32 degrees,unless I need the defroster to remove moisture.
The older Fords(some of them)had a push-button with a blue light and you could lock out the AC with it. It's not hard to do this and it gives you control you don't normally have. don-ohio :)^)

P.S. The first time I ever saw this feature of the AC kicking in when running the defroster or on `mix' was when I was working on my Boss's 74 T-Bird. So this feature isn't something new at all.
 
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