micahs97m8
Dedicated LVC Member
The racing battery is sounding better and better. lol.
Weight off the nose
- Thread starter KStromberg
- Start date
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
The racing battery is fine, if used as intended and you don't need the space under the hood for other things. I wouldn't recommend one for a daily driver, but you may get by with it.
Only two cables need to run the length of the vehicle, and one is lighter than the other.
Only two cables need to run the length of the vehicle, and one is lighter than the other.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Also as a FYI they want the cut off switch on the pass side rear of car in general.
lobird91
Well-Known LVC Member
I always run the ground back to the engine block....overkill maybe but it helps me sleep better at night and have never had cranking/voltage drop issues like many with rear mounted batteries complain of, but you are correct you only "have" to run 2.
-Alan
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Good info here guys. I appreciate it! With that said, it's going to be too much hassle doing a relocation I think. So, my weight transfer intention with this setup has became weight reduction instead as I now am planning on getting a lightweight racing battery up front. I never run any of my accessories at the track including a/c since it hasn't worked for a few years and I will be running the delete pulley anyways so the battery I am looking at should be sufficient for track use only.
Here is the battery I was thinking about getting:
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=25&category=Batteries
So as far as the traction control on a Gen2 car what about the 27" front runners and 26.35" drag radials. Issue?
Here is the battery I was thinking about getting:
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=25&category=Batteries
So as far as the traction control on a Gen2 car what about the 27" front runners and 26.35" drag radials. Issue?
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i think taller in the back is what works.
shorter in the back will not work. the computer sees a higher rotational speed, and thinks it is wheel spin.
so just kill the trac control when you get in and go for it.
shorter in the back will not work. the computer sees a higher rotational speed, and thinks it is wheel spin.
so just kill the trac control when you get in and go for it.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Back in 2010 I ran 26" drag radials and 26.6" tires up front without issue. I always turn the traction control off anyways. I just wasn't sure if it would cause issues even with it off, but chit now that you mention it, it probably won't be an issue. And now that I think about it, the differential in height in 2010 was .6" Now it will be .65" so not much different! Ha, there I go thinking again.
I think I can pull the trigger on the front runners! 
This will also be my first passes on the aluminum minispares. Those 4" steelies I ran in 2011 with 215s weighed as much as the stock full size rims. That was a fail mod.
So wait, didn't you have m/t et streets on your car before? Thought I remembered seeing them on you're car.. If you're worried about traction and weight transfer, why step down to a drag radial?..yes I know there are a lot of very fast cars running drag radials, but they have the suspension set up for drag racing to make them work..but on a street car with IRS, a slick or something close to that, ie et street, hoosier qtp, m&h etc.. would be ideal. You should look into those "free" weight saving more instead of buying relatively expensive front runners only to save a few pounds..rip out all the sound deadener and crap under the carpet, trunk liner, unnecessary plastic coverings under the hood, hood insulation..etc. you'd be surprised how fast that stuff adds up.
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
Just turn the traction control off in the tune.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes I ran 255-50-16s ET Streets on the car in 2010 and 2011. I will run the ET streets this year again too but they will be 265-40-18s and will be on Speedstars (for a little bit of jazz, lol)
The front runners will save me 10# per tire compared to the weight of a skinny street radial up front with the same dimensions. Also keep in mind I now have the 4" aluminum minispares which I have not made any passes on yet. Those 4" steelies that I ran in 2011 turned out to be the same weight as the full size stock wheels with rubber. So I am saving about 15# per wheel there. The total weight loss on the end of the axles is about 25# per side. You got to remember that rotational weight on the end of the axles has a more substantial effect on 1/4 mile times than reducing the same amount of "dead" weight. I was told by racecougar that I could expect to see .10-.15 reduction in 1/4 mile time with a skinny tire/light wheel combo like this. We're talking 50# of rotational weight reduction on the end of the axles that would take 100-150# of "dead" weight to obtain similar results in terms of 1/4 mile times.
Also, aren't the ET streets that I run considered to be "drag radials"? After all they do have grooves and a simple tread pattern on the shoulders of the tire which would make them qualify as a radial tire.
micahs97m8
Dedicated LVC Member
That specifically says for use with small engines. Not large displacement. You may want to add 3 lbs. or so and get an extra 200 CCA's.
Oh. And don't forget to drain your washer fluid.
Yes I ran 255-50-16s ET Streets on the car in 2010 and 2011. I will run the ET streets this year again too but they will be 265-40-18s and will be on Speedstars (for a little bit of jazz, lol)
The front runners will save me 10# per tire compared to the weight of a skinny street radial up front with the same dimensions. Also keep in mind I now have the 4" aluminum minispares which I have not made any passes on yet. Those 4" steelies that I ran in 2011 turned out to be the same weight as the full size stock wheels with rubber. So I am saving about 15# per wheel there. The total weight loss on the end of the axles is about 25# per side. You got to remember that rotational weight on the end of the axles has a more substantial effect on 1/4 mile times than reducing the same amount of "dead" weight. I was told by racecougar that I could expect to see .10-.15 reduction in 1/4 mile time with a skinny tire/light wheel combo like this. We're talking 50# of rotational weight reduction on the end of the axles that would take 100-150# of "dead" weight to obtain similar results in terms of 1/4 mile times.
Also, aren't the ET streets that I run considered to be "drag radials"? After all they do have grooves and a simple tread pattern on the shoulders of the tire which would make them qualify as a radial tire.
I thought the rotational weight reduction with lighter wheels and tires only mattered for the drive wheels? But yeah if you can save 25lbs a side that's pretty good. And m/t makes an et street and an et street radial. The et streets are basically a wrinkle wall slick with three grooves in the center and the et street radials actually have somewhat of a tread pattern with stiffer sidewalls..more made for "daily" driving. The compound may not be as soft also compared to the et streets/drags..not positive on that though.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
micahs97m8
Dedicated LVC Member
Definitely.
It's twice as much as the one I showed you earlier. Did you have a brand preference? :shifty:
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Ahh. Gotcha. Yeah these are the ET street radials for "daily" driving. Without rain of course. LOL
And no, the lighter wheels/tires up front will positively effect the rollout of the car. Actually, someone on here (maybe driller) said that he found himself accidentally red-lighting and therefore having to stage a little differently because the car left a little harder. I think that's how I remember him putting it. If it leaves harder, it should without a doubt run a better time. I'm certain this will help short times.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Definitely.
Dammit Micah. Thanks! I totally missed that post.
Now I think we're onto something.
Does anyone know how much the stock battery weighs?
micahs97m8
Dedicated LVC Member
A Duralast battery weighs 42.95 pounds according to autozone.com.
Hot*Mk8
Dedicated LVC Member
I own one of the last hotrod Lincolns
That's sexy and silver and gets me to thinkin...
If only I could make 'er a little bit lighter
She'd go like a scared little spider
Then I'd be the fastest N/A Mark, not just a weaklin'!
:shifty:
That's sexy and silver and gets me to thinkin...
If only I could make 'er a little bit lighter
She'd go like a scared little spider
Then I'd be the fastest N/A Mark, not just a weaklin'!
:shifty:
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
a lot lol. if you really wanna know and don't know by then, PM me this weekend. i can weigh mine real quick for you.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
45 huh? yup, approximately a lot. lol.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
I'll take that.
So I should save 50# with the wheels/tires, 27# with the battery and then whatever the compressor weighs. Between dead weight/rolling weight I'd say 100#ish pounds? Assuming .05 for the dead weight and .15 for the rolling weight just from doing some guesstimations I see about 2 tenths reduction in et plus whatever the dyno tune did for me. I think it's time to pull the trigger. I see a low-low 13 coming. Air will determine whether or not I am capable of toying with a 12.999 I have high hopes. With the 26.35" drag radials I think my gear ratio should be somewhere around. 4.40ish
So I should save 50# with the wheels/tires, 27# with the battery and then whatever the compressor weighs. Between dead weight/rolling weight I'd say 100#ish pounds? Assuming .05 for the dead weight and .15 for the rolling weight just from doing some guesstimations I see about 2 tenths reduction in et plus whatever the dyno tune did for me. I think it's time to pull the trigger. I see a low-low 13 coming. Air will determine whether or not I am capable of toying with a 12.999 I have high hopes.
With the 26.35" drag radials I think my gear ratio should be somewhere around. 4.40ish 
mossbergman
Dedicated LVC Member
are you going to pull the pass/rear seats?
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
The reduced sidewall and heavier wheels aren't going to help matters. You're talking about ET Street Radials by the way. ET Streets are bias-ply tires.
Going from typical street front wheels/tires to a set of aluminum 15x4's with 165R15's or a true front runner tire (not a 215 tire) will net that sort of reduction in E.T. Weight reduction, reduced rotating mass, and reduced rolling resistance all come into play here.
Nope. One of the methods I employ to slow my car down to run in a bracket is to ditch the skinnies and put the street tires on the front of the car. It's usually worth a couple tenths.
Correct. They are not the same compound.
ET Street:
ET Street Radial:
ET Street Radial II:
Rollout can be adjusted with tire pressure.
Just replaced my battery tonight for the hell of it I weighed both, old interstate was 40lbs..new duralast is 45..went from 675 cca to 750 cca..battery is the same size..not sure where the extra 5lbs came from?
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Front runners are ordered and I will go to the auto store on Saturday to get the a/c delete pulley. Any problems with the duralast unit? I've decided to go with Micah's suggestion and get the $100 racing battery. I do have full adjustability with the Konis out back. Between that and perhaps running with a bit more fuel in the tank, I am hoping there are no ill effects with the smaller sidewall 18" drag radials on the Speedstars out back. If I am feeling feisty, I may revisit the dyno again to get the A/F ratios a bit more optimum. Right now it is a bit fat at 12.5 WOT. It will be nice to have everything ready and just wait for some cool spring air.