Vibration nightmare still here....

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SleeperMark

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Alright, some of you may remember an older post I mad about this issue. When I got my 95 mark (base) I had a vibration at 100+. Pulsating "voom" sound. Changed the gears to 3.73 and now the same sound comes in at 55-60 goes away and then comes back at 85. Here's what I've replaced... Driveshaft (replaced with a 93 one piece), all bearings seals and races in the carrier, both half shafts, both rear wheel bearings, tires, IRS carrier bushings, engine mounts. Today I took the car in and the guy put it on a lift and had someone drive it at 85mph while he was standing under it (shetchy as hell). To make it better, he placed his hand on my transmission. He said there was zero vibration from the transmission or the drive shaft, so we moved to the rear. You could see the carrier, half shafts, lca's, etc shaking. After looking around he narrowed it down to the pinion flange. He said it looks like there is a slight wobble going on with it. Could this have been defective from the factory? Would it cause this kind of vibration? I know it is cast and I wouldn't assume that it got bent.. His advice was either the flange is warped or the carrier is warped so he is trying to get me to buy a new carrier. Anyone else experience something like this? Should I start with the flange and go from there? Flange is $30 and we all know how ungodly expensive a carrier is. Thanks guys!
 
Man...that is dumb.

Anyhow its your shaft.
Get it in phase and balanced or get a aftermarket shaft "preferred."

BTW that is a good way to die.
 
Like ford nut said I don't see anything that indicates you put new u-joints in and balanced the 93 shaft.
So do that and change the opinion flange.
 
the 93 shaft is better, but not foolproof. i still get a good buzzing at higher speeds. although its more like 95-105, then it smooths out again.
 
I did not add it but yes I put new u joints on the shaft. I did not have it balanced though. I'll start there and see what happens. As far as the pinion flange goes, which ones can I use? Can't find anything for a mark but there are ford racing ones for the cobras everywhere.
 
Does anyone have a part number or something for this pinion flange??? The damn thing is impossible to find. All I can find is for the 03-04 cobra, and I assume that wont work seeing how they're a 31 spline and the mark is a 28...
 
Same gearset between our car and a cobra, so the spline count isn't relevant for a pinion flange. A cobra pinion may fit, but the configuration for the drive shaft may be different, meaning your drive shaft may not mate to it.
 
DieselDan said:
Same gearset between our car and a cobra, so the spline count isn't relevant for a pinion flange. A cobra pinion may fit, but the configuration for the drive shaft may be different, meaning your drive shaft may not mate to it.
Click to expand...
Correct it will fit in the diff but will not bolt to the drive shaft. So 01-03 cobra flange won't work.
 
Like Ford nut said, did you try changing the phase on the drive shaft?
Mark the current location and remove the bolts, rotate and repeat.
 
Hmm. I'll have to keep looking then. And I tried one other position but not the rest. Sounds like a good project for the day.
 
Spent the afternoon trying every single other position at the flange. No difference with any of them.
 
SleeperMark said:
Spent the afternoon trying every single other position at the flange. No difference with any of them.
Click to expand...

I'm surprised, I've only seen one pinion that was fubar'd and that was in a 69 mustang that grenaded the trans; chucked the driveshaft and used it as a pole vault for the car.
Have you tried the hose clamp method on the driveshaft to see if or how much it's out of balance? You can google it, if you try it check your clearance.. Mark your drive shaft in 4 positions and don't do the chalk method laying under your car on jack stands or something silly like that.
 
I'll look up the hose clamp method. The guy at the shop said he saw the flange wobbling, but while I had the shaft off today I got a piece of metal that fit perfectly between the flange and the carrier. I rotated the wheel and listened/watched for any gaps. Seemed to be turning pretty damn straight to me.. It has to be that shaft...
 
Sounds like its more trouble than its worth. How much should a good shaft balance run me? I am pretty good friends with the guy that had been helping me with the problem and I'm sure he will cut me a deal, just curious of a ballpark price range.
 
Before I purchased my 4" Dynotech I had a 93 shaft balanced with new u-joints for like $225ish I think it was. YMMV Make sure the guy does a high speed balance. He needs to spin that shaft at 6000 rpms or higher to get a good balance in my opinion.

There's plenty of guys running the stock shaft with mods. Eff that $600 shaft suggestion. I should have kept my 93 shaft. I went overkill and spent $479 on a Dynotech shaft and it is no better than the 93 shaft I had. I gave in to advertising on that bit. Maybe upgrade if you have lots of boost or turbo action. Otherwise, forget it.
 
That's better than I thought it would be. I'll call tomorrow and see if this guy can get me in. Like I said, in sure he'll cut me a deal. Any suggestions on other things to check that cause vibrations while we have it all apart? Or how to check the flange properly?
 
I paid under $60 for just a balance
I did the r&r and u's myself.

Put a dial indicator on the flange to check runout.
Also have you check your tires and wheels?
 
KStromberg said:
Before I purchased my 4" Dynotech I had a 93 shaft balanced with new u-joints for like $225ish I think it was. YMMV Make sure the guy does a high speed balance. He needs to spin that shaft at 6000 rpms or higher to get a good balance in my opinion.

There's plenty of guys running the stock shaft with mods. Eff that $600 shaft suggestion. I should have kept my 93 shaft. I went overkill and spent $479 on a Dynotech shaft and it is no better than the 93 shaft I had. I gave in to advertising on that bit. Maybe upgrade if you have lots of boost or turbo action. Otherwise, forget it.
Click to expand...

Are you saying you have vibration with the Dynotech shaft?
 
I just had new tires installed and they said it was all fine. And I would LOVE to buy a dennysshaft, but I'm a broke a** college student. Lol. Need a sub $100 fix right now. Not a $500 one. Maybe after the summer gets over and I get a good job.
 
Generally when a tire store puts tires on they never check the wheel maybe yours did
Its free to rotate just to be sure.
 
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