Troubleshooters please

As far as I know, the Marks doesn't need calibration. Just bolt it up, plug it in.

Someone is sure to disagree... but heres my method

Remove hood, remove wiper arms and cowl, from there its pretty straight-downward

Found an old pic of my first 93s engine, hope that helps

IMGP0035.jpg
 
Sapperfire said:
As far as I know, the Marks doesn't need calibration. Just bolt it up, plug it in.

Someone is sure to disagree... but heres my method

Remove hood, remove wiper arms and cowl, from there its pretty straight-downward
Click to expand...

TPS should really be checked and set. It won't kill the car if you don't but you want .98 ish Volts at closed throttle. Over 1 volt tells the computer you getting into the gas and changes things. I would always set mine on my mustang 5.0 because it was so easy to get to. Sometimes it would take alittle dremeling of TPS holes to rotate it where it needed to be.
 
Before you worry about installing a new TPS, did you try running the car without it plugged in? Trust me, with your MAF working, you should still be able to drive the car. Been there, done that.

As far as changing it, take the whole throttle body off, those four bolts are fairly easy to get to - then you can change the TPS easy enough.
 
NetKeym said:
Before you worry about installing a new TPS, did you try running the car without it plugged in? Trust me, with your MAF working, you should still be able to drive the car. Been there, done that.

As far as changing it, take the whole throttle body off, those four bolts are fairly easy to get to - then you can change the TPS easy enough.
Click to expand...

--- and then change the TB gasket
 
OMG!!!

Gaskets shouldn't be reused once torqued. They only flatten ONCE, which is how the seal is created. Reusing it can cause leaks..

We're trying to help him FIX his car... not keep chasing new problems!!!!!

And if you're gasket was so brittle, that it had a chance of breaking...rolls eyes- cmon dude
 
Fenders and hoods don't create running issues

I'm all for reusing what ya can - gaskets, not so much
 
Even though I have no CE light, I decided to put the code reader on the car during lunch today for the hell of it.
To my surprise I got error 225C Knock sensor not detected during dynamic response test KOER.

Can someone tell me where they are located and whats needed to.change them ?
 
joeynat said:
Even though I have no CE light, I decided to put the code reader on the car during lunch today for the hell of it.
To my surprise I got error 225C Knock sensor not detected during dynamic response test KOER.

Can someone tell me where they are located and whats needed to.change them ?
Click to expand...

They're under the intake.

enginebay3.jpg
 
Pantera1973 said:
That's a crappy place to put them!:mad:
Click to expand...

NoLimit95 said:
I agree but there a lot of engine parts that were placed in not so good locations in the Mark. It's just never thought about until one of those said parts ends up going bad and needs to be changed for new.
Click to expand...

Do you understand what they do and how they work? :rolleyes:

In order to monitor the engine for knocking (detonation), they must be mounted in the block walls, as near to the cylinders as possible. The only other possible location would be on the outside of the block, a location that Ford tried in earlier engines, and found to be less effective.
 
:( that's a bummer

If you've got a thin arm you can just remove the alt , that and are able to hold the pliers under there too, otherwise the plenum has to come off.
I tried not taking the plenum off when mine went bad on my 93. Ended up just making myself mad
 
DLF said:
Do you understand what they do and how they work? :rolleyes:

In order to monitor the engine for knocking (detonation), they must be mounted in the block walls, as near to the cylinders as possible. The only other possible location would be on the outside of the block, a location that Ford tried in earlier engines, and found to be less effective.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand how they work but hopefully, I'll never have to mess with mine. Just simply referring to some parts being located in bad spots but not really referring to the knock sensors "per say". For instance, the IAC and TPS on 1st gens are a little bit of hell to change but a gen 2 IAC and TPS could be swapped by my 10 year old son. I'm sure there are more parts on our cars that were positioned in hard to reach places but it is what it is.
 
Sapperfire said:
Like rear main seal? Or #6 piston rings?
Click to expand...

And the list goes on and on. Just a simple change of the oil filter can be hell for the new Mark owners. I remember my first time in 2005. Took me about 30 min to remove and replace that thing. Now I can remove and replace one within a min. Gen 1 IAC can be done within 30 to 45 min easily. After you do these parts a few times, you get the hang of what's needed before you even start and you know more about how it has to be removed and replaced.

I never want to see a #6 piston ring or the rear main seal. :shifty:
 
DLF said:
Do you understand what they do and how they work? :rolleyes:

In order to monitor the engine for knocking (detonation), they must be mounted in the block walls, as near to the cylinders as possible. The only other possible location would be on the outside of the block, a location that Ford tried in earlier engines, and found to be less effective.
Click to expand...

Ford still used outside knock sensors on newer model engines then ours. My 4.2 F-150 has knock sensor outer side of clys. (2002 engine) But it is a cast iron block so don't know if that makes them hear better on outside.
 
when I changed plugs the bucking reduced 99%; when I got a tune it went away 110%...knock sensor-related I'm told
_____
this is beautiful, almost makes me tear up
enginebay3.jpg
[/
 
DLF said:
Do you understand what they do and how they work? :rolleyes:

In order to monitor the engine for knocking (detonation), they must be mounted in the block walls, as near to the cylinders as possible. The only other possible location would be on the outside of the block, a location that Ford tried in earlier engines, and found to be less effective.
Click to expand...

Oh, I know how they work, but on every other car I've ever owned (and there have been MANY) I've never seen one so inaccessible.

I've had 5 turbocharged cars (3 Volvos, an Audi A4, and a 1986 Mercury XR7 Turbo bought brand new :)) and everyone of them did just fine with knock sensors on the outside of the block. I'm sure you'll agree a good knock sensor is just a little bit important on a turbo!
 
Right on the Mark said:
Ford still used outside knock sensors on newer model engines then ours. My 4.2 F-150 has knock sensor outer side of clys. (2002 engine) But it is a cast iron block so don't know if that makes them hear better on outside.
Click to expand...

The 4.2L is an "upgrade" of the earlier 3.8L V6, not a newer design.
 
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