Transmission replacement

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ruswin

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Part of the work that needs to be done to my 94 Mark 8 recently aquired is the transmission only has 1st and 2nd gear. So I am found a used one in good condition that I want to install. Besides the normal filter and seals to be replaced before installing the used one, is there anything else that I can do to ensure the transplant goes well? Is it neccesary to check the 1-2 accumulator or replace it before I install it?

Also, I have a Ford step-by-step removal and installation for the trany, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips or shortcuts for the job. I ain't thrilled about doing it myself in my driveway, can it be done? Thanks.
 
I replaced my torque converter with the car on jackstands.

It can be done; not quickly, but still...
 
I ain't really worried about the time it will take to do it, just want to have some confidence that I won't get hurt or get to a point where I cannot complete the install because of a lifting / positioning problem. I have my oldest son who can help me with the grunt work. I am looking at picking up a transmission adapter for a floor jack, I am just not sure how high off the ground the car needs to be in order to get the trany out and back in?
To make matters worse, today is the first day we will crack 100 degrees in the Phoenix area... pavement gets mighty hot this time of year here. The other choice of course is just to have a repair shop install it? Figure that will cost as much as the used trany though.
 
ruswin said:
I ain't really worried about the time it will take to do it, just want to have some confidence that I won't get hurt or get to a point where I cannot complete the install because of a lifting / positioning problem. I have my oldest son who can help me with the grunt work. I am looking at picking up a transmission adapter for a floor jack, I am just not sure how high off the ground the car needs to be in order to get the trany out and back in?
To make matters worse, today is the first day we will crack 100 degrees in the Phoenix area... pavement gets mighty hot this time of year here. The other choice of course is just to have a repair shop install it? Figure that will cost as much as the used trany though.
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I can tell you how we lift ours on jack stands.
We took an old automatic fly wheel and welded to end of the floor jack. Work good will also fit the oil pan or the rear end.
 
trans weighs around 100-130 lbs,not too bad.

i did an entire swap on a stone driveway with zero help.
get the car as high as you can on jackstands.
 
ruswin said:
I ain't really worried about the time it will take to do it, just want to have some confidence that I won't get hurt...
Click to expand...
You'll want to make sure the pavement under the jackstands won't crumble under the weight, which would allow the stands to shift. If you don't think the pavement will be strong enough, some plywood under each of the jackstands is an option.

You'll have to get the car pretty high to do the work; about as high as most car jackstands go, so make sure it's as steady and level as possible. Give the car a shove before you get under it to be sure.

Given the dry climate there, you aren't likely to have much rust on your car, so there probably won't be much in the way of stuck bolts. All I can suggest is that you make sure you have all the tools you'll need before you start.

You could hose the driveway to cool it off before you get to work.
 
A good 18" is a good hight but deff higher the better and a motor cycle jack works well for lowering it and installing the trans.

Have lots of extenstions and swivel joints to get at the top two bolts, you have to feed the socket and extions from aft of the tranny forwerd to the top(about 3ft long). Stick your hand up around the pass side to guide the socket on to the bolt. Just leave two of the easy bolts for last so you can get the jack under it. Sounds complicated but its easy, of corse I had an impact. I have done all of them like that.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
A good 18" is a good hight but deff higher the better and a motor cycle jack works well for lowering it and installing the trans.

Have lots of extenstions and swivel joints to get at the top two bolts, you have to feed the socket and extions from aft of the tranny forwerd to the top(about 3ft long). Stick your hand up around the pass side to guide the socket on to the bolt. Just leave two of the easy bolts for last so you can get the jack under it. Sounds complicated but its easy, of corse I had an impact. I have done all of them like that.
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Ok Eric I am disappointed !
Shouldnt he be changing some sensors when its all apart ?
That wedding must be getting closer its affecting your thinking ;)

Change o2 sensors when trans is out and the IACV.
As far as the 1-2 accumulator I would.

Search it.
Also if you are going to do any mods in the future now is the time to j mod and maybe a higher stall converter :cool:
 
i did an entire swap on a stone driveway with zero help.
Click to expand...

You sir are a glutton for punishment. I sure wouldn't have done that job there.

Creepers don't roll, rocks sticking you in the back. Ugh! :(
 
i made a special plate for my floor jack with angle iron and a pice of c-channel. the c-channel faces the transpan with the open side of the c, then i welded angle iron at both ends and bent them around the sides of the tranny pan, on the bottom of the c-channel is a heavy duty hinge and solid 1 inch square piece of bar stock that fits in the hole on my jack. once i sit the trans on the c-channel, i wrap a ratchet strap around the c-channel and trans case, then you can push it under the car and the hinge is so the whole thing can be angled to match the pitch of the motor when putting it back in, its a total mess looking deal, its free metal and took about 30 minutes to make, the amount of work i had to do to take the trans down and then back in was all worth it, didnt even break a sweat. but like mentioned above if you use jackstands get 4 with a very large foot print, dont get the car up on jackstands from big lots!! i have regular jack stands for everyday work and for tanny's and dropping motors i have 5 ton stands that reach a height of 32 inches high all the way up. when i did the tranny in my 97 i could sit under the car without hitting my head that was sweet!!!
 
Get a 96 Mustang GT w/auto rear trans mount. Direct bolt in replacement for non-existent Mark VIII mount. Tried, tested, and verified by ThomasA.

What year is your replacement trans? You may need to swap TCC solenoid from old to replacement. I'm swapping a 96 into my 93 and volts/ohms are different between those years so I have to swap. I would check all solenoid volt/ohms to be sure none need replaced.

Good time to add external trans cooler. Factory cooler in radiator is more than likely contaminated with debris from current trans. Be sure to flush it if you don't bypass.

Ditto on replacing O2's, IAC.

I'm going to do mine on jack stands as well. Only problem I can see is losing maneuvering room with stands on front frame rails.
 
warthog5 said:
You sir are a glutton for punishment. I sure wouldn't have done that job there.

Creepers don't roll, rocks sticking you in the back. Ugh! :(
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yeah, tell me about it,but i could not stand not driving my mark

i had back bruises from a couple rocks i rolled onto.

no creepers,just cardboard and a piece of plywood to roll the jack/trans around on,

i have a pic somewhere of the car getting its trans swapped.
 
:)
moe.jpg
 
O2 sensors I get... what is the IAC.

Damn you guys are on it!!! Thanks for all the tips, I am sure that these hints are going to make it easier to do.

One more thing, why would the voltages / resistance be different with these trannys? I have the used tranny ordered already.
 
IAC is Idle Air Control. It's on the pass side, rear of engine, next to throttle body. For us 1st gen owners it is a real PITA to get to. But with tranny out it's easier to get from the bottom.

When you pull the trans becareful of the EGR tube. It runs down drvr side, rear of engine. Very brittle, and about $100 to replace, if you can find one.

Good luck, have fun, buy band aids!
 
ruswin said:
...why would the voltages / resistance be different with these trannys? I have the used tranny ordered already.
Click to expand...
The TCC solenoid was changed to a higher resistance design for the 96 and up model years.

Your engine computer is a 94 model, so you'd need to use the 93-95 TCC solenoid in your transmission.
 
Ok how can I tell if I am getting a pre 96 tranny or not? I bought the tranny from ASAP, I am not sure if they can tell me what year it came out of? Is there a resistance that can be tested on the solenoid to tell whether I have the right one?
 
jamie97lsc said:
i made a special plate for my floor jack with angle iron and a pice of c-channel. the c-channel faces the transpan with the open side of the c, then i welded angle iron at both ends and bent them around the sides of the tranny pan, on the bottom of the c-channel is a heavy duty hinge and solid 1 inch square piece of bar stock that fits in the hole on my jack. once i sit the trans on the c-channel, i wrap a ratchet strap around the c-channel and trans case, then you can push it under the car and the hinge is so the whole thing can be angled to match the pitch of the motor when putting it back in, its a total mess looking deal, its free metal and took about 30 minutes to make, the amount of work i had to do to take the trans down and then back in was all worth it, didnt even break a sweat.

Jamie, that sounds perfect, I have seen specialize trans jacks and adapters for floor jacks, since I do not have a welder, looks like I will have to purchase one retail instead.
Click to expand...
 
A 96 trans will have a sump/bump in the middle of the pan where pre-96 has a smooth pan. But whose to say someone has not swapped pans.

The TCC solenoid for a 96 will be between 12-15 ohms and pre-96 is between 1-3.
 
Go Fast Get Tickets said:
When you pull the trans becareful of the EGR tube. It runs down drvr side, rear of engine. Very brittle, and about $100 to replace, if you can find one.

Good luck, have fun, buy band aids!
Click to expand...


After doing my first transmission and fighting to get it in around the EGR tube all the ones after that I have been cutting that tab on the upper 1'o-clock position. It made intstalling it 10 times easyer, and you wont damage the tube too.

I think it was eather 96 or 97 when the started useing the deep sump pan and 98 had the steel acumulater pistons.
 
ford nut said:
:)
moe.jpg
Click to expand...

yes,there i am ,doing my trans swap a few years ago.

thanks fordnut for searching my photo out.

looking at the photo i now remember i used two factory roadside car jacks in the back and had them on top of blocks.

anyway, i cant wait to someday have a real garage.
 
Moes8 said:
yes,there i am ,doing my trans swap a few years ago.

thanks fordnut for searching my photo out.

looking at the photo i now remember i used two factory roadside car jacks in the back and had them on top of blocks.

anyway, i cant wait to someday have a real garage.
Click to expand...

No problem I remembered the post and the picture looked like a fun time :rolleyes: I put a clutch in a 67 cougar the same way one time....in the dirt. :(
 
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