How to remove a transmission on a 95 LSC
Read all of the steps first then start working to make sure you have all the proper tools
1. Place vehicle in park and disconnect the battery
2. Jack the rear of the car up first and then the front to a height of 18+”. Use two jack stands under the front K-member and one under each sub frame connector (centered over a bolt head)
3. Spray the exhaust bolt with penetrating fluid
4. Un bolt left side (Drivers side) exhaust (2 nuts) (3/8 drive ratchet with a 14mm deep socket)
5. Using an extension with a wobblier end on in attach the 14mm socket to the end and at least 12” of extensions to the 3/8 ratchet. Remove the higher up bolt on the right (passenger) side exhaust. Fallowed by the lower bolt.
6. There are three exhaust hangers on a stock LSC exhaust, spray with lubricant and slide the three hangers out from there rubber isolators
7. Using a 14mm ratcheting wrench, remove the two nuts that are on the transmission exhaust hanger.
8. With a pry bar and a friend (if you got one), separate the exhaust cross member hanger from the transmission cross member
9. Pull the whole exhaust straight out the back and set aside
*Note* There is a good chance you will brake some of the exhaust studs, use plenty of lubricant and take your time.
10. Disconnect the orange cable located on the side of the transmission using a flat head screwdriver to “pop” it off the ball joint. Make sure Trans is in PARK. Also remove the nut holding the back of the cable in place with a 3/8 drive ratchet and 14mm deep socket
11. Disconnect the 16 pin connector located on the transmission cross member
12. With a 12mm 12point boxed wrench loosen and remove two of the accessible bolts that are attaching the driveshaft to the diff. Use your foot and place Trans in neutral so that you can rotate drive shaft 180*. Now place back in park and remove the other two bolts holding the drive shaft on.
13. With a small pry bar and a ball peen hammer just loosen the rust that hold the diff and drive shaft together (you won’t get much but it just has to be free at the moment)
14. Place a jack under the differential and jack it up so it is just touching the bottom
15. With a 15mm boxed end wrench, remove the two nuts holding the rear of the diff up. Hold the top of the bolt with the 15mm and remove the nut with an 18mm deep ½ drive socket and breaker bar. After loosening the two nuts use a ratchet to remove the rest of the way.
16. Repeat step #15 with the forward diff bolts except the head on the bolt is now an 18mm boxed end wrench.
17. After all the nuts have been removed, place in a zip-lock/jar/shoe and label them for the diff.
18. Slowly let the diff drop down and hang from the axels (make sure the drive shaft has separated)
19. Slide Drive shaft back (over the diff) far enough to allow the yolk to come out of the tail shaft of the transmission
*Note* have a drain pan under tail shaft to collect fluid
20. With a 3/8 drive flex head ratchet, 18 inches of extensions, u-joint, 6 inch extension with a wobblier end on it and a 3/8 drive10mm deep socket (in that order). Go in through the side hole where the front sway bar exits the “K” member on the right side and loosen all 3 of the starter bolts.
21. Back starter out of transmission and gently let in hang from the wires. Use a 13 wrench, loosen the battery cable on the solenoid of the starter. If the starter if factory the signal wire for the solenoid is just a spade connector and should come off with the possible help of a flat head screwdriver and a long bent nose needle nose pliers. Place starter off to the side and store bolts in a labeled package
*Note* MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONECTED BE FOR TOUCHING STARTER!!!
22. Place drain pan under the transmission cooling lines on the right side of the trans. Using a 13mm line wrench loosen the two line nuts(*CAUTION , STOP IF STARTING TO ROUND THE NUT OFF, USE A 1/2” OPEN END WRENCH AND HAMMER ON THERE TO TRY AND REMOVE IS SLOWLY) (*DO NOT JUST CUT THE LINES) the lines will just hand there.
23. With a ¼ drive ratchet and a 10mm deep socket remove the one bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the block. When removing the dip stick tube have drain pan ready to catch trans fluid
24. With a 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the inspection cover over the front of the flywheel ( set aside in container)
25. With a 13mm shallow 3/8 drive socket and ratchet remove the rearward facing bolt that connects the trans shim to the bell housing just above the inspection hole, towards the left side of the trans
26. With an ½ drive 18m shallow socket and ratchet rotate motor from the crank pulley bolt. Only rotate in a clockwise fashion (view from front of car looking back) and spin the motor till a torque converter nut is visible in the inspection area of the transmission
27. Use an offset 14mm boxed end wrench and loosen the torque converter bolts. You will have to hold the motor while breaking these lose. (*CAUTION, do not round off nuts, they a really hard to get off if rounded)
28. Repeat step #25 with the other 3 nuts
29. With a 13mm shallow 3/8 drive socket, wobblier extension, at least 12-16” of 3/8 extension and a ratchet. Loosen the 3 bell housing bolts on the driver’s side and the two on the pass side
30. With a 13mm shallow 3/8 drive socket, wobblier extension, at least 6” of 3/8 extension, u-joint, 18”-24” of 3/8 extension and a ratchet. Feed the extensions from the back of the trans forward up to the top of the bell housing , you should be able to stick your hand up and around on the pass side of the trans to guide the socket on to the top bolts. You will have to go in from the left side to get the left one and the right side to get to the right one.
31. Take the jack now and support the Trans with it and use 2x4’s in between to not crush the trans pan
32. Remove the two cross member bolts using a 15mm shallow 3/8 drive socket and ratchet
*Note* if this is the first time the transmission is coming out of this car it will get hung up on the EGR tube, you just have to “shimmy the trans pass this while you separate the trans from the motor. It is best to have one guy operate the jack; one holds the tail shaft and the other using a pry bar to aid in separating the Trans from the motor (fly wheel from torque converter)
33. The transmission should be free of the car, check and make sure nothing is forgotten and slowly lower the trans down and *WATCH OUT FOR THE COOLER LINES ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
34. Once all the way down remove the jack and slide the transmission out the side of the car
35. Now you have a 200lbs boat anchor, have fun!
*Note*Follow these directions in reverse to install
• Don’t forget to check the torque converter seal before install.
• Remove the “ear” that kept snagging on the EGR tube
• Make sure converter is properly seated in the transmission pump by rotating and pushing at the same time
• Fill to proper levels and shift through the gears before checking again to top off
If I have forgotten something please add, or correct if others see an easier way. This is the way I do it though and I am up to at least 30 mark transmission swaps. So I hope this helps.
