Trans fluid in coolant. 98 LSC 122k Mi.

A

ATTICus Finch

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So she's driving the car and it over heats. She goes to a mechanic and it seems that the tank in the rad cracked and the fluids got mingled. So he flushed the transmission. Then the transmission started acting up. All within 100 miles of itself. It sat for about 3-4 months. I decide to check it out cus it kills me having a nice car just sitting rotting away so I get it back to my place. It drives and runs fine. Doesn't get hot. Doesn't leak fluid. It seems to shift a bit early sometimes (100-300 rpms early) But still shifts fine and firm. The last redlight coming to my place I stop and sit for about 1 minute. Coming away from the stop i go to get on the gas and theres no gear and it goes up to about 2k. I notice it quickly and let it drop back down and when it gets to about 1200 almost idle it pops into gear abuptly like I neutral slammed it.

Conventional wisdom would have told the gent to put on an external trans cooler (which im doing) and to seperate the systems. I'm reflushing it and I dont think he dropped the pan so I'm doing that and the new filter. Maybe some Lucas ontop of the mercon V. Got a B&M cooler on the way.

Think it's trashed? The clutches seem to be locking up just fine. It was almost like the pump just had to was build pressure or a spool valve got stuck and unpopped. I've been using the search function for a while and have read all about the different probs with this one and the jmod. No codes are thrown. and outside that the car is cherry. If it's toast whats the goin rate on a on shop replacement/rebuild vs doing it at home? Not incredibly challenging is it? I've heard that and peaked underneath for a while but I lack a chiltons/haynes and have not found a write up with pictures for it yet.

Thanks for reading my lengthy post any advice would be appreciated including a good trans shop in the dfw area if this doesn't work out. I noticed alot of you are within 3 hours of me so I'm assuming theres lots of good local tech advice/shop reccomendations hopefully. I tried searching but never saw a post with my symptoms specificly after having read for hours.
-R3
 
drop the pan, and spin the crank by hand till the torque convertor drain plug faces the bottom of the bell housing. there is a 2 inch rubber access plug in the bottom of the bell housing, the convertor drain plug is 11 mm, drain that also you want to get all the fluid you can out. fill it back up with mercon 5. i dont think its trashed, i have a feeling the guy who did it just drained the pain and not the convertor too. alot of cars dont have drain plugs in the convertor, be very happy you do!!
 
Well. It was goin great. No leaks or acting up for about 700 miles then wiiiiiiirrrrr poof no gears. Let it cool off, gears. Warms up and nothing.

So I drained it and am ready to take it out and attempt my first auto rebuild. I'm wondering if i have to drop the gas tank to get to the driveshaft to take it off or what the gig with that is? I lack a chilton so I need to know whats nessissary. Dropping the exhaust obviously and taking off that top cowl and wipers for the access to the top two bolts (plastic clips just pop out?) Still in the air on the driveshaft tho.
-R3
 
Oh yah the operating conditions. It was whirring for about two or three miles and got out and checked fluid asap. Nothing weird just the noise. So i'm trying to limp it back home via highway. I put a new cooler on it and the hot side is almost cold enough to grip bare handed so not that hot. Wiir noise on highway at 70 for about 6 miles on CC and then the noise dissapears the rpms shoot up to redline so i tap the brake and the cruise goes off as it settles back down to idle. Od light blinking and check transmission. No forward gears really. After dropping the pan there was no filter drop so I'm wondering if it was the plates or what.
 
Are the +98 mustang 4r70w's drop in replacements. It didnt look like it'd need to be repinned. I found a low mile one locally for pretty cheap.
 
For the driveshaft....

Drop the exhaust.

Match-mark (for reassembly) the driveshaft/pinion flange, and unbolt it. I think I use a 12 mm 12 point ratchet wrench and it's perfect.

Unbolt the differential from the subframe and let it hang suspended by the axle shafts in both sides.

You should now be able to slide the driveshaft back toward the rear of car, above the differential.

I've never had to remove the wiper cowl to get to the top 2 bolts on the tranny. If you unbolt the transmission crossmember, it will hang down enough for you to get to them with a few feet of extensions...
 
I was thinking about that but I was a lil freaked that it might tear up the motor mounts or anything thats kinda tight under there if the motor shifted. Pinch a line or something. Looks like i have a line on an 02 gt auto complete. Hope it'll work out.
 
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