The Mark's Cooling Fan Mods

mlschultz

mlschultz

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Finally found out the limits of the 17" Mustang GT cooling fan that has been in The Mark since the supercharger install a couple years ago. Metro Atlanta heat wave 2010 has been in the 90's+ just about every day for a couple months now, and when I drive in stop and go traffic in these temps, the car temp gauge will move beyond half way when I have the A/C on, and will recover and go back to the normal middle of the gauge position when I turn the A/C off. On the interstate at speed, the car runs normal with the A/C on with no problem.

I had Aric look the car over, and he said everything is functioning normally. He was able to recreate the symptoms in his shop, and his dyno fan cooled the car off 22 degrees while it was running idle in the shop. He figures the dyno fan is good for 45-50mph wind. So, blame it on the weather.


The car has a Ford Racing Mustang Cobra radiator (for a manual shift car = no trans cooler tanks), a Treadstone supercharger intercooler, a huge Ford truck trans cooler, and a stock Mark VIII A/C condenser all stacked in the nose of the car.

Now driving without A/C in Atlanta in the summer is like driving without a heater in the winter in Michigan. Not gonna happen :)

So, Aric is going to install two Spal push style fans on the radiator directly in line with the grill opening. Each fan should be good for 440 cfm (880 total cfm). We are talking about going with a Spal 16" high output pull fan replacing the Mustang GT fan. The 16" Spal fan is good for 3300 cfm. The problem with this 16" Spal fan is it needs 45 amps to run full speed. Just need to see if the electrical system can handle the additional amps. I think a stock Mark needs 30 amps to run the fan. lol I feel like a engineer on Apollo 13 :)

The plan is to have Aric wire everything to run through the PCM and VLCM.

Here are some pictures of what it looks like before the mods, and the fans...


16" Spal Pull Fan
30102803.jpg


7.5" Spal Push Fan
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Mustang GT Fan - location of 16" Spal HO Pull Fan & Cobra Radiator
DSC02680.jpg


Another Pull fan view
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Grill view - location of two 7.5" Spal Push Fans
DSC02683.jpg


Another view 7.5" Push fans & Stock Mark A/C Condenser
DSC02688.jpg


Treadstone Intercooler location
DSC02689.jpg


Another Intercooler view
DSC02690.jpg


Ford Truck Transmission cooler
DSC02698.jpg


Another view Trans Cooler
DSC02699.jpg
 
Thanks, thats good to know. Too bad it won't fit in my car. It would of saved me a lot of grief, and over a thousand bucks in fans, wires, harnesses, and labor! A new Mark fan alone is like $450 from Ford.
 
Frogman said:
Evanscooling.com
Click to expand...

Have you tried any of this? Sounds a little like snake oil, but there web site is convincing. I'm running a little hot with the a/c on myself and was looking at getting a new radiator.
 
If you put the stock wheels on that car it would be one of the sleepiest marks ever. :cool: Minus the whine from that blower.:D
 
I had an SQ with aftercooler, Meth, a trans cooler, and with a stock radiator and (slightly modified) fan and for several +100* day in St Louis. I only saw the temp gauge get above middle once and that was after sitting at idle for 15 mins waiting for someone. I dont understand why you're getting high temps. Hell I think I still have my old OEM fan in the basement.

Is there an evens replacement for the mark VIII dual core?
 
Like I said, the car starts to get warm and goes beyond half way on the gauge while the a/c is on in traffic. Same conditions, but turn the a/c off in traffic, and it runs fine with the gauge in the middle. Last couple years, this system ran great with no problems at all with the a/c on.

This car does not have a Mark radiator, fan, or water pump in it. All Mustang parts. That must say something for stock Mark parts. Maybe I can plumb vented air from the two blow-off valves to flow over the radiator lol. :cool:
 
Mike, I always love to see more of your car. Your car and the work on it was the primary drive for me doing what I do to it. Some day it may be as clean as yours but I love having such a high mark (pun intended) to shoot for. :)


Anywho, I had a buddy back in Maui that built up his Mark with a Vortech and he used several different fans on it cause its stock fan was bad and he thought aftermarket was better. He didnt have the fitment issues you have though. After both of us going over that car all summer long and him not being able to drive it he finally caved in and bought another stock Mark fan...... problem solved!
He had a Black Majic puller fan and then a big ass trans cooler that had two 9" pusher fans on it. Car could not sit still longer then 5 minutes or it would start to overheat.
He did have a new POS Mishimoto (sp?) custom radiator in it. Back then I thought that was a good company but since then I saw many of them fail.



OH YEAH! The Marks water pump is designed to flow better below 2200rpm where as the Mustang water pump flows best around 3000 RPM. You may wanna switch to a Mark water pump as it flows better when you are stopped. The down side is if you spend a lot of time above 5500 then it will cavitate.
 
Oh yeah, this is just a little tidbit for neatness. Really nobody will notice but I liked doing it. On the valve covers and the timing cover I removed those studs that are no longer needed and replaced them with standard bolts. It helped the engine look a little neater without the studs sticking out.
 
lsc8 said:
Have you tried any of this? Sounds a little like snake oil, but there web site is convincing. I'm running a little hot with the a/c on myself and was looking at getting a new radiator.
Click to expand...

Jeb, have you known me to recommend something that I didn't have a good experience with? Of course I have tried this stuff. I've had it in 90K dollar engines (and it's likely still in all of them I've had).

What if I told you I can severely beat on a 748HP 846Ft Lbs car in 110 degree weather and never see the coolant go past 108 °C (226 °F)? You can essentially run this coolant without a cap on the expansion bottle and you'd still be fine.

So, yes, I'm running it in all of my current vehicles and have ran it in past vehicles as well.

You'll run about 10-15 degrees warmer than regular water/glycol mix on the return side because the Evans stuff picks up that much more heat over water/glycol mix. Since most temperature thermistors on cars is on the return side, you will see a higher indicated temperature. Think of how steam is an extremely poor heat transfer agent and you'll understand why the Evans stuff works so well. Since it's such a much better thermal transfer agent, it will of course, discard the heat it carries that much better once it starts going through the radiator. If you put a thermometer on the return side (going back into the engine), I think you will be surprised to see just how cool that coolant is entering that engine again.


I've had this coolant to 245 °F in diesel engines pulling heavy loads up steep hills at 7000+ foot altitudes. One day I decided to pull the cap off the expansion tank at that temperature (it was a science experiment - They are not "smart" by design). What happened? About 2 PSI of pressure (a little "swish!") and the cap was off. Why? Because the coolant was nowhere near its boiling point.

New radiator and 100% Evans in your cooling system and you'll turn into one of those Amsoil like zealots about it... crap, I sound like one of those zealots, don't I?

~Goes back to his corner to eat his coloring crayons~
 
Frogman said:
~Goes back to his corner to eat his coloring crayons~
Click to expand...

now thats some funny sh!t

does this stuff work like water wetter we run it in all of our demo derby cars religiously. it makes a huge difference when the radiator takes a hit it will keep the car running cooler than without it
 
I don't know how water tweeter works, to be honest with you. Actually, I understand that it keeps the water colder, but I don't know the chemistry behind it.

Evans is basically straight glycol with a proprietary additive to make it friendly to aluminum and non corrosive. It works well because there is no water to flash off and turn into steam when it contacts a hot engine part, like a head, therefore allowing it to be in full contact with the hot part.

~red tastes like strawberry~
 
thanks frog,
i've been doing some more reading on the evans products and it sounds good. I'm gonna try it now that i have an actual testimonial. My car is getting hot with the a/c on while cruising. If i leave the a/c off i have no problems at any time. Are you running evans radiators or just the coolant? I thought i might just try the coolant before i bought another radiator. It sounds like the npg+ can be run after a flush.
 
Just the coolant. No room for extra radiators what with the factory radiators, turbochargers air to water heat exchangers, suspension system heat exchanger, engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler, rest mode heat exchanger, power steering cooler, refrigerator heat exchanger... Though, that one is in the back, fuel cooler... Ugh.

Just make sure you have ALL of the old coolant out of the cooling system. Drain the block and the heater core while you drain the radiator.

Evans says you can use a factory 190 degree thermostat, but Of course WTF do they know? I have mine programmed to open at 170 as well as increased main cooling fan speed by 20% over factory, and temperatures are running exactly 2 degrees cooler than factory thermostat and fan speeds...

Those two last things are obviously not possible on a Mark, but it gives you an idea of how well the coolant works.

PM me and I'll hook you up with a reseller that will sell you the coolant for about 32 bucks a gallon instead of the 40 Evans is asking for it.
 
i found a reseller in Peoria that i was going to call. Shipping from a website is about as much as the coolant. I'm running a 160 thermostat and my fans kick on at 160 as well.
 
so its basically drain out the old coolant and add the new should it be flushed with anything before hand? you've really peaked my interest i think im going to find a local dealer and get some for the mark and the wife's jeep
 
keatonsdad said:
so its basically drain out the old coolant and add the new should it be flushed with anything before hand? you've really peaked my interest i think im going to find a local dealer and get some for the mark and the wife's jeep
Click to expand...

The stuff at the bottom of the page "Prep Fluid" is for flushing out the system.
 
Prep fluid is for those cooling systems that are hard to remove all the old coolant from. Don't know how well it worse, I've never used it.

Long as all of the coolant is out, prep lid is pointless. Now, ideally, you want ALL of the old coolant out, but you will be fine if there is no more than 2% of the old coolant left in the system. Once you do this, send them a sample and they will tell you how much old coolant you left in there.
 
All the parts are in, and The Mark is going to Arics today for the surgery. Spal has the wiring harness on backorder, so Aric is going to make his own. From what I understand, the VLCM is going to be the trigger wire, and the fans will run off their own fuse/relay. lol I have no idea how he is going to make it all work.

I was thinking to have the two small pusher fans run as auxiliary secondary fans on a separate circuit using their own controller, relay, and sensor that run independent of the VLCM. Not sure if Aric wants to go in that direction though. He seemed to be certain that he wanted to control everything through the pcm.

I will post pic's and a video when it is done. :)
 
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