Tensioners

LSC HUNTER

LSC HUNTER

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I know I have read about the timing chain tensioners causing noise on start up so I am looking for a bit more info.

When I first bought the car 6K miles ago all was good and no issues other than a bearing squeak so I changed both idler pullies and discovered it was the altenator bearing. That went away but I always knew in the back of my mind I was pulling the altenator and rebuilding.

On the weekend I started the car on Sunday as it had sat since I parked on Friday and I was puttering around in the driveway. Well I heard the altenator bearing start, I was standing outside the car when I leaned in and started it. Well I shut it off and popped the hood before I went any further. Leaning in I started the car again and as the alt started squeaking I watched the tensioner flex and it sounded like I had a huge rod knock and then the squeak stopped and so did the other noise. They, the noises came and went together and the tensioner flexed as it happened. This morning, I started it and it started doing it again but the idle was fluxuating with it as well. As I did not want to be stranded I took the wifes car to work.

I am going to take the belt off when I get home and start it to see if it still makes the noise. The chain tensioners are oil pressure driven are they not?

I guess that is my question or there are a couple that I have. Chain noise, will it come and go on start up and will it come with a fluxuating idle? Are the tensioners oil pressure driven or are they spring?

I have never heard this noise before and before you ask I do not have any way of making a video to post, wish I did.

Comments and thoughts greatly appreciated here.
 
The timing chain tentioners work by oil pressure, it's a common problem to have the rattle on start, mine does it for a few seconds and goes away, I started using 5w20 full synth oil and it doesn't happen as often now
there was some discussion about the oil filter I was using, because there was no valve in it, I started using Motorcraft oil filters (which didn't change anything)

There used to be a TSB on it, in which case a couple people received complete new motors from Ford, however the new motors did it too...

It's just something you'll probably have to live with
 
Sap, I wish I could post a vid to hear this thing and it came and went three times. Each time it sounded like rod knock. All this was happening on start up with out being shut off. So I started it and the noise happened then stopped then started then stopped and so on. It was never shut off until I said I cannot drive it like that.

So are you saying the rattle as you descibe it sounds like rod knock?
 
OK, first I am gonna ask a dumb question. Did the AC comp kick in and out with the tensioner moving and alt whine?
 
Usually once there is a rod knock, it won't just go away...usually!

You could have one of several issues...bad tentioner, broken chain rail, broken reluctor ring, ect ect ect ect....it's damn near impossible to diag anything over the net/phone/video,

Mine makes a knock for a few seconds at first start only, and it only lasts a couple seconds, it'll only do it if the car has been sittin for a while, mine is due to the tentioner tsb that has (to my knowledge) never been figured out why it does it exactly (Ford statement)

So if your knock is intermittent, check all your pulleys as you stated earlier, pull the serp belt, start car breifly...if it's still there then you've eliminated all things that were belt driven (check those pulleys anyway, because you've already got the belt off)
 
Laser, yes the a/c comp kicks in and out during it but only for a moment and the knock noise is still there.
 
A/C was off, unit in low pressure pump down. A/C comp not source of noise. I am in the great white north man was only 60 Deg here this morn..HAHA!!

I will let you guys know what I find when I get home tonight.
 
Ok, yeah off that's fine then...

Let's see what ya get with no serp belt
 
Removed serp belt and started it up same noise but not as bad since I had to start it and back it into the driveway as I was parked on the road. I guess the initial start and idle was enough to prime the tensioners up with pressure.

Seems to come and go while it is running and sounds almost like a rod knock but I know rod knock is not an intermitant noise.

My next question is this, since I have to rip it apart anyway I am thinking it has 130K miles on it I might as well do a compression test and see where the rest is and decide from there or should I just say to hell with it and rebuild now. I am going to set a 3K to 4K budget for motor.

Thoughts or opinions?
 
I think you have a cracked reluctor ring or crank position sensor ring as some call it. That or a bad chain rail.
 
I was thinking that as well but I will not know until I tear it apart. I am not going to drive it now until I tear her down so I am going to drive the wifes Cavalier. I did find a 2002 Grand Prix GTP that needs a front bumber cover and most likely brakes. I am going to look at it tomorrow and maybe I can talk him down to $700.00 max.

Sent a message out to my engine guy so maybe we will just build anyway.
 
A GTP for $700 is a fuggin steal even if it needs a bumper cover. Those are fun cars. Plastics suck inside but the engine makes up for it.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Removed serp belt and started it up same noise but not as bad since I had to start it and back it into the driveway as I was parked on the road. I guess the initial start and idle was enough to prime the tensioners up with pressure.

Seems to come and go while it is running and sounds almost like a rod knock but I know rod knock is not an intermitant noise.

My next question is this, since I have to rip it apart anyway I am thinking it has 130K miles on it I might as well do a compression test and see where the rest is and decide from there or should I just say to hell with it and rebuild now. I am going to set a 3K to 4K budget for motor.

Thoughts or opinions?
Click to expand...


Get a salvage motor, throw it in, rebuild the one in it over time...that's what I'm doing anyway
 
your tentioner pulley might be good but your tentioner itself could be bad, its just a spring in the back we all know springs give out. you might want to replace the actual tentioner.
 
Guys, thanks for all the info and I should have been clearer in the original post, I am talking about the timing chain tensioners.

I have removed the serpentine belt and run it and I am still getting the noise that sounds like an intermitant rod knock. Sometimes it is real bad and other times I can barely hear it when it starts. I wish it was as easy to replace everything on the outside of the motor that spins.

Sapper, as I live in a Northern salt encrusted climate for 6 months a year I was putting it away anyway, now it is just sooner than planned. I will pull the motor in the early spring while it is at the body shop which I just arranged on Friday and if all goes well there will be another to go in right away and if not I will do the one I have just pulled at that time. Well that is the general plan anyway. I might just yank off the front cover and take a look see and inspect the guides and reluctor ring as Laser just reminded me.
 
youll need to remove the radiator and use a 1/2" impact with a stub anvil to remove the crank pulley bolt, then a crank pulley puller ( which can be rented at most auto parts stores)
wish ya lived closer , i could have that thing off in a few minutes
 
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